MikeMeyerhoff Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 The dash speakers are 4"... Here's the new driver on top of the factory one. Notice any problems?http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/Diamond1.jpg What is that like 4.5"? Maybe its metric? 120mm speaker? :roll: The solution was to hack up the grill trim ring. Using the trim ring increased the diamater enough to use the stock mounting studs. The yellow arrows are where I had to make some notches because the trim ring was slightly too big. The big portion had to be cut out of the trim ring because of the contour of the dash. http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/Diamond2.jpg The good news is, its mounted firm. The bad news is this was the passenger side and the drivers is supposed to be harder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_ESI_R Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 Excellent post and write up...Not to mention great choice of brand. Now, talk to us about the driver's side. :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Well, the drivers side is the opposite problem. The original speaker is 3.5" and not round due to clearance problems. http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/Dash-Speaker-Driver.jpg I think I can get it to fit, but it requires a dremel :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 velcro works wonders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_ESI_R Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Well, the drivers side is the opposite problem. The original speaker is 3.5" and not round due to clearance problems. http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/Dash-Speaker-Driver.jpg I think I can get it to fit, but it requires a dremel :oops: I was wondering about that...Let us know how it goes. I'm very interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted November 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Just a quick update. I have the speaker mounted, all it took was dremeling some of the dash plastic, a small section of dash metal, and trimming the speaker flange in key locations. But, since the speaker is twice the depth of the stocker, it interferes with the outside "vent door" ducting. If I was willing to get rid of the ouside vent ability, it'd be easy to use some flex pipe to go under the speaker to the HVAC. However, If I want to keep the outside vent the dash is going to have to come out for some duct modification. Give me a bit on that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indy_85stariones Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 But, since the speaker is twice the depth of the stocker, it interferes with the outside "vent door" ducting. If I was willing to get rid of the ouside vent ability, it'd be easy to use some flex pipe to go under the speaker to the HVAC. Yes, must be less than 1 7/16th inch in depth, in order to use inside/outside air lever to redirect air flow. My car has a slight whistle while using outside air. More info here...http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...ghlight=speaker http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...ghlight=speaker http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...ghlight=speaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_ESI_R Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 Just a quick update. I have the speaker mounted, all it took was dremeling some of the dash plastic, a small section of dash metal, and trimming the speaker flange in key locations. But, since the speaker is twice the depth of the stocker, it interferes with the outside "vent door" ducting. If I was willing to get rid of the ouside vent ability, it'd be easy to use some flex pipe to go under the speaker to the HVAC. However, If I want to keep the outside vent the dash is going to have to come out for some duct modification. Give me a bit on that Your not getting off that easy....PICS!!!!! :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidMoTSI Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 Mike, any updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted November 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 I've got the drivers side in and hooked up. Heres the proof:http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/Diamond3.jpg You can see it comes close to the cluster mount stud. I will take an post a picture of what I had to cut on the speaker to get it to fit. These Diamond M6 have a very over designed cast aluminum basket, so there was plenty of ability to trim without loosing rigidity. I wouldn't recommend trying this with a stamped basket. The ducting on the other hand... it'll have to wait some. Hopefully the outside vent door can be saved. mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidMoTSI Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 Now that you have it in there, I'll stop by again and take a look at it. Infinity makes a 3.5 speaker that is supposed to be compatable for a Starquest, $70 a pair. Don't know how good they are, but they are available at Best Buy here in JC Model REF3022CF, SKU8211302 Handles up to 75 watts peak power (25 watts RMS) 3-1/2" Plus One polypropylene woofer cones with rubber surrounds 1" edge-driven silk dome tweeters; unipivot design for a customized listening experience Built-in crossovers Impedance: 2 ohms Cutout diameter: 3-1/16" Bottom mount depth" 1-1/2" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_ESI_R Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Very nice....More pics please. Preferbly some with the dash removed and the speaker inslalled. Also, what did you end up doing about the duct? Are you running the 3-way set up with the mid-bass mounted in the doors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted November 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Very nice....More pics please. Preferbly some with the dash removed and the speaker inslalled. Also, what did you end up doing about the duct? Are you running the 3-way set up with the mid-bass mounted in the doors? Shhhh... thats my plan. The three way add on diamond makes should finish it off nicely. Assuming I can find enough places to mount FOUR crossovers. I haven't solved the duct problem yet. If someone is willing to do without the outside air vent, a simple flexable hose could be run to the stock HVAC. Making outside vent air and its switching door work, will be tricky. I'm gonna give it a shot, but I promise nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_ESI_R Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Sounds good but don't forget that the closer the cross-over is to the speakers the truer the frequencies will be. Have you thought about heating the duct up and try molding it a little? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted November 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Have you thought about heating the duct up and try molding it a little? I hadn't thought of it, but I'll keep it in mind. Unfortunatly were the speaker sits, the duct is not just a duct. It has a "door" built in that closes off the outside air and is controlled by a leaver, so it can't just be crushed. If it wasn't for the outside air, this would be a simple mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoFastBeater Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 How much sound comes out of the driver's side dash speaker? I figured it would be so bad for balance and imaging that in my old quest I just stuck with a good set of 5.25" components in the door. The gauge cluster and a pillar pod seem like it would ruin anything coming out of that 4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 You might fit some of those crossovers up behind the glovebox under the AC condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted December 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 How much sound comes out of the driver's side dash speaker? I figured it would be so bad for balance and imaging that in my old quest I just stuck with a good set of 5.25" components in the door. The gauge cluster and a pillar pod seem like it would ruin anything coming out of that 4". Thats something I debated with myself when planning this. A good portion of the driver side dash speaker is shrouded, especially the larger 4" speaker. What would it do to imaging...? Well imaging is more important the higher up the frequency ladder, so comparing a three way setup to a two way. The three way setup is essentially moving some of the middle frequencys to the dash near the tweeter. Which should be good for imaging. The question of whether the shrouding affects the imaging is tougher. After hearing it, I say no. If there is some muffling affect on the drivers side, it is small enough to be countered by the distance differential issue (at least from the drivers position). My biggest problem right now is that I have this 4" components playing full range and am getting some nasty harmonics from the dash itself below 400hz. I'm hoping this goes away when I add the midwoofer to the doors and highpass the frequency to the dash. Another note, My choice of midwoofer has changed from the Diamond 3-way add-on because I am worried about being able to tweak it. I'm going to to a plain midwoofer and active crossover. Probably a ID CX62. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted December 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 Well another piece just fell into place for this build. I have been wanting to use some old school PPI amps. Preferable the 97/98 charcoal grey ones to match my H39. I had already bought a PC 2100 for the subs and was planing on getting a PC450 and a seperate active crossover for the fronts. Thanks to EBAY I just scored a Powerclass PRO650! :D/ :D/ :D/ Power and versatile enough to do everything I need all in one sexy package. Anybody looking for a PC2100. Works perfect, 6/10 cosmetics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Ok, next round. A 4" set of components in the dash will really struggle with bass, so they need some help. Time to upgrade:http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/IDcompare.jpg After some sheetmetal cutting and hammering, the 6.5" driver fits behind the factory grill. http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/id-opening.jpg This is an infinate baffle set up so, the door needs to be seeled. A roll of RAAMat helps:http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/IDbarrier.jpg I only have one side done so far. Yes it sounds good for mono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88_ESI_R Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Outstanding....What exactly did you have to hammer? Also, what is the max depth we can go in the doors still using the factory grill? Also what is the depth of that beautiful 6.5? Any issues with the window? Keep it up!!! You don't happen to have any pics of the door after the modifications and before the speaker install do ya? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 The ID CX62 drivers specs say its has a mounting depth of 3.125" and a magnet diameter of 4.5". The it has about 3/4" clearance, so I'd say there is 3.9" total mounting depth available. The window doesn't go down that far, so if someone uses a driver with a smaller diameter magnet there will be even more room (maybe 1.5" more). My pics of the sheetmetal are too blurry, I'll get more when I do the other door. Basically I had to cut some clearance at the bottom and then hammer the bottom in some so that the panal would still be flush. I didn't use a baffle board to mount, went straight to sheetmetal. Maybe not the perfect solution, but fabbing a whole baffle board that the stock door panel would mount to has to be a lot more work/difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turborusty Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Mike.......Might I suggest you trim the door panel to completely expose the speaker.....you can find very plain speaker grilles that are hard to tell from stock....this will help make sure there are no sound waves reflecting back to the cone. Turborusty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Better grills aren't a bad idea, but I'm trying to keep it as stock appearing as possible.I did remove some of the plastic waffle grid that supports the cloth. Here are the pics of the door modding: Here is about how much cutting is needed: All three sides!http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/midbass-cut.jpg This shows how the bottom of the opening was hammered in some so the panal would mount flush. I didn't just use a hammer, I also used a small vice grips to form a brake line.http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/midbass-bottom.jpg Some hammering was also needed at the top to help get the mounting flush.http://home.mchsi.com/~m.meyerhoff/midbass-ready.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck641 Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 That should sound good when you are done with it. Be careful with all the hammering and cutting on the doors. I was doing the exact same thing on my old quest, I was almost done with the second door and the damn window shattered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts