MidMoTSI

1987 Rio Red TSI, purchased October 23rd, 1986 at Fisher Chrysler, Yuma, AZ. S. Pino was my salesperson. They gave you a suede VIP pouch back then for you paperwork with a insert for the salesman's card. Still have 2 of his sales cards. 6.6 miles was recorded on the odometer with 5 of those from my test drive. Longest road trip was 4400 miles, Yuma to Manistee, MI and back. Went international to Europe (Germany) via the Army, had a blast on the autobahn. Originally titled in Arizona, then Europe, Texas, and finally Missouri when I retired. MO plates: "87 TSI". 2nd Starquest is an Atlantic Blue, automatic 1987 Technica that Mike Meyerhoff and I found for $300 in Olathe, KS. Only had that one since March, 2008.

Has any one retrofitted their old GM OnStar analog mirror receiver to the new digital mirror receiver? If so, how detailed was the process? My Bonneville has the older system.

Thumpster has a parts car, mostly stripped, but with a good looking roof though it looks like a sunroof. You mentioned eliminating the sunroof, so I don't know if you're interested. Looks like it's in Yorktown, VA. He posted pics http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=126155&hl=&fromsearch=1

1988 Conquest TSi (Verified using 1988 Chrysler Service Manual, page 6) H84 Grace Silver R04 Mexican (Rio) Red R88 Durban Maroon T87 Fuji Blue W09 Sophia White X15 Serbia Black Y59 San Marino Yellow 1984 Conquest (Dodge/Plymouth; verified using 1984 Conquest Service Manual, page 6) B71 Atlantic Blue H39 Kaiser Silver H80 New Italian Silver K16 Mezzon Gold R49 Provence Red X15 Serbia Black 2-Tone H35 New Italian Silver (H80)/Kaiser Silver (H39) W59 Polar White (W42)/Mezzon Gold (K16) X52 Serbia Black (X15)/ Mezzon Gold (K16) 1986 Conquest (Dodge/Plymouth; verified using 1986 Conquest Service Manual, page 6) H43 Eiger Silver K78 Valencia Gold L05 Olive Gray R04 Mexican (Rio) Red R64 Seychelles Red W18 Sarajevo White X15 Serbia Black (The service manual didn't indicate if all of these colors were available for both the flatty and widebody models.) Can any Conquest owners with 1983, 1985, 1987, and 1989 service manuals verify the color codes listed in the introduction section of the manual? Also if any Starion owners with a factory service manual can verify whether the color codes are listed.

1986 Starion ESiR H43 Eiger Silver L05 Olive Gray R04 Mexican Red W42 Polar White X15 Serbia Black 1987 Starion ESiR H43 Eiger Silver L83 Palermo Gray R04 Mexican Red S83 Shetland Beige W18 Sarajevo White X15 Serbia Black 1988 Starion ESiR H84 Grace Silver L83 Palermo Gray R04 Mexican Red W09 Sophia White X15 Serbia Black 1989 Starion ESiR H84 Grace Silver L83 Palermo Gray R04 Mexican Red R48 Windsor Red W09 Sophia White X15 Serbia Black (If anyone has a 89 ESiR with R48, it would be extremely rare since less than 160 1989 ESiR's were imported.)

Conquest TSi (Widebodies only) (Still researching the 1986 Dodge and Plymouth widebodies) 1987 Conquest TSi B71 Atlantic Blue H43 Eiger Silver K78 Valencia Gold R04 Mexican (Rio) Red S83 Shetland Beige W18 Sarajevo (Rocky) White X15 Serbia Black 1988 Conquest TSi H84 Grace Silver R04 Mexican (Rio) Red R88 Durban Maroon T87 Fuji Blue W09 Sophia White X15 Serbia Black Y59 San Marino Yellow 1989 Conquest TSi H84 Grace Silver L83 Palermo Gray R04 Mexican (Rio) Red T87 Fuji Blue W09 Sophia White X15 Serbia Black Y59 San Marino Yellow I haven't started the Starion ESiR's yet. For validation purposes, I'm requesting members verify the paint code from the vehicle information code plate riveted onto the firewall in the engine compartment. "This plate shows model code, engine model, transmission model, final gear ratio, and body color code." A lot of cars have been repainted, and the new paint color may not have been a color originally offered for a particular production year. In order to verify the correct year, please use the VIN that is shown on the "Vehicle Safety Certification Label" attached on the face of the left door pillar. This label gives the month and year of production. Also, the 10th digit of the VIN will be a letter, D=1983, E=1984, F=1985, G=1986, H=1987, J=1988 and K=1989. Some dashboards have been replaced so the VIN on the dash may not be correct for a production year. If anyone has any ideas or guidelines on how to ensure we get an accurate database, let me know.

Added to the list.

I was researching starquest paint codes and reviewed the data posted in the FAQ. UL, (Ultimate Lurker) did a good job for the widebodies and there is a lot of general info for the earlier production years. So far, from the FAQ and other websites, I have the following unverified paint code data for Starion flatties only: 1983 Starion B46 Bering Blue H23 Nevada Sand H29 Italian Silver R73 New Safari Red X15 Serbia Black 1983 Starion 2-tone {LS model only (?)} Italian Silver (H29)/Bering Blue (B46) 1984 Starion H23 Nevada Sand H39 Kaiser Silver H43 Eiger Silver H80 New Italian Silver K16 Mezzon Gold L53 Canadian Green R49 Provence Red R73 New Safari Red S28 Chateau Beige (may have only been used in the 2-tone paint schemes) W18 Sarajevo (or Rocky) White X15 Serbia Black X56 Majorca Black 1984 Starion 2-tone H87 Nevada Sand (H23)/Provence Red (R49) X30 Serbia Black (X15)/Kaiser Silver (H39) X65 Serbia Black (X15/Mezzon Gold (K16) 1985 Starion H23 Nevada Sand H39 Kaiser Silver H43 Eiger Silver L53 Canadian Green R49 Provence Red R52 California Red R64 Seychelles Red R73 New Safari Red S28 Chateau Beige (may have only been used in the 2-tone paint schemes) W18 Sarajevo (or Rocky) White X15 Serbia Black X56 Majorca Black 1985 Starion 2-tone {LE model only (?)} R84 Seychelles Red (R64)/Chateau Beige (S28) X06 Majorca Black (X56)/Eiger Silver (H43) 1986 Starion H39 Kaiser Silver H43 Eiger Silver L05 Olive Gray R04 Mexican (Rio) Red R52 California Red R64 Seychelles Red S28 Chateau Beige (may have only been used in the 2-tone paint schemes) X15 Serbia Black X21 Velvet Black X68 Onyx Black Again this data was combined from several sites for Starion flatty's only. If you are a flatty owner and can help verify the data with the data plates on your Starion, it would be appreciated. If codes are missing let me know and if a code is listed which was not used, let me know so it can be deleted. I also have info for the Conquest flatty's too.

The VIN is comprised of 17 letters and numbers (digits). Digit 1 = Country of origin Digit 2 = Make Digit 3 = Vehicle type Digit 4 = Other information Digit 5 = Line (Car Model) Digit 6 = Series Digit 7 = Body style Digit 8 = Engine Digit 9 = Check digit (0 thru 9, plus X) Digit 10 = Model year (D=1983; E=1984; F=1985; G=1986; H=1987; I=not used; J=1988; K=1989) Digit 11 = Manufacturing plant Digit 12 = Transmission/California 0= 1st digit of the serial number used sometime after 1985 model year 4= Manual transmission, not California 5= Manual transmission, California 6= Auto transmission, not California 7=Auto transmission, California Digits 13 thru 17 = serial number So a breakdown of the portion of the VIN you supplied: J Japan J Chyrsler 3 Passenger Car C Automatic (Passive) Seat Belt C Conquest or Starion 5 Premium Series 4 2-Door Hatchback N Intercooled 2.6 liters X Check Digit H 1987 Z Okazaki, Japan 0 Transmission or the beginning of the vehicle serial number The 1987 Conquests TSi's were the most common imported versions of the 1983 thru 1989 Conquests/Starion production line. Mexican Red was the most common 1987 paint scheme. The rarest versions were the 1989 production year Starions.

The factory OEM part is no longer available. Also due to the age of a used pulley, it may fail again after you replace it. That pulley is actually 2 pulleys connects with by a hard rubber molding. There are aftermarket 1 piece pulleys available. I'll research and see where I bought mine. http://stores.ebay.com/101propose/Starion-/_i.html?_fsub=12290015&_sid=45900602&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Hey Tim, welcome to the Dodge truck world. Now all you need is a trailer and no, Mike and I won't sell you back your rims!

La Russa announced his retirement this morning.

Also, the motor housings are easy to disassemble and clean. A lot of the crud, (dried grease and plastic), gets caught in the gears.

PM sent.

Don't know how well I'll trust a moving part, but for plastic gears it's workable. Interesting to see where this technology will go if they continue to develop it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw Start printing a bunch of starquest parts.

LOL, guess that would make it hard to post a pic. Let me look when I go home for lunch. I've got one.

Post a pic, though I'm pretty sure I know what you need. Have one sitting on my work bench from my parts tranny. PM me your shipping address and I'll send it to you.

How far from St. Louis and in what direction? Mike Meyerhoff and I are in Jefferson City. We have a few spare parts in my storage shed.

Tim, now you know how it was originally equipped out of the factory. My Booneville has all the RPO's printed on the spare tire cover in the trunk. I checked them against the on-line report - 100% accuracy. If you are buying a used American made vehicle, and have access to the VIN, it's a good way to verify how it was equiped when it rolled out of the factory. Coca-Cola had an RPO code (F1Q) and used 111 2001 Bonnevilles in their vehicle fleet. Avis used 196 / National Car Rental used 239. Too bad they don't have a starquest database.

If you ever wondered about the original options that came on an American built vehicle (and some imports), this VIN decoder is very accurate. Unfortunately it DOES NOT INCLUDE the Starquest VIN database. But it accurately identified the factory options that were on my 2001 Bonneville and 1997 Dodge Ram. http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

On your first rebuild, did you prime the oil pump?

The exhaust manifold is supposed to be mounted with studs, washers, and nuts. Remember that the head is aluminum and overtightening those bolts may result in the stripping of the threads. Randy, (Dad), usually stocks the correct parts. In a previous post, you requested pics of a stress-relieved manifold. It appears that yours isn't. I would recommend removing the manifold, stress relieve it, resurface it, inspect the head for damaged threads, and use the correct studs instead of bolts. It's easier to remove and replace the manifold with the turbo removed. With the manifold removed, you can also clean the threads on the old studs using a wire brush and drill. Pay particular attention to the lower stud on the #4 exhaust port. It's out of sight, often ignored, and is usually the one that is loose or broken. If you have removed the pre-cat and installed a downpipe directly to the exhaust, the vibrations from the exhaust system places additional stress on the mounting studs.

Where exactly in the KC area are you? Mike Meyerhoff and I are in Jefferson City.

Here is are a couple of replies by 'mikec' to the same question last year. He pretty much summed it up. The factory/dash oil pressure gauge is not calibrated very well. The display itself is pretty good... it's the sensor unit that varies considerably. Some sensors will start indicating with only a few psi oil pressure; others (most) seem to require about 20 to 25psi before they'll make the needle budge. On most StarQuests, each 1/4 of the display is about 25psi. In theory then half-scale would be 50psi IF the sensor was one of the "good ones" that starts working at only a few psi. For sensors that take 20 to 25psi to kick in, half-scale is more like 70 to 75psi oil pressure... which is normal oil pressure on most healthy StarQuests. Oil pressure goes up/down in sync with RPMs too - that's why many modern engines use oil pressure in the variable valve timing system. Dash oil pressure readings lag real oil pressure by several seconds: when you rev the engine, oil pressure will build up as quickly as the RPMs do even though the gauge will take several seconds to do anything. Proof: start the engine and let it idle... wait a minute until the gauge is holding steady. Now stall the engine, or quickly shut it off and then turn the key back to ON. Notice the oil pressure gauge will still be showing pressure? The pressure inside the engine will be pretty much zero within a second of it being shut off despite the dash gauge saying "there is still significant pressure." Higher idle oil pressure on a cold engine is normal; the oil is thicker and thus easier to pressurize. 15psi at idle is the factor minimum spec; most StarQuests have at least 25psi at idle. 50 to 75psi at "cruise" speed/RPMs is normal. Given the wide variation (car to car) in StarQuest oil pressure gauge readings, the following rules of thumb should be used: 1: learn the "typical" gauge readings (all gauges!) for your car when it's running right. Then, when any gauge starts reading differently, you know something has changed. 2: oil pressure: on the 87-later cars, or any StarQuest converted to the auto-lash adjusters (automatic valve lash adjustment "pills") low oil pressure will manifest itself as rapid ticking/clattering from the top of the engine. A little clatter is normal on initial start-up if the engine has been parked for a while... the oil has been squeezed out of the adjusters (also commonly called "lifters" since they do look like dinky versions of old fashioned lifters on pushrod engines); it takes a few seconds for oil pressure to re-pressurize the lifters so they can do their jobs. 3: expect different oil pressure gauge readings if you change oil viscosity or if you change brands of oil filter. Some filters have a lot more restriction than others. I noticed a significant increase in oil pressure when I switched to the NAPA Gold filters which are really Wix filters. mike c. What your gauge is doing sounds perfectly consistent/normal; I wouldn't worry about oil pressure issues on your car. The only real way to know for sure though is to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. You can install one in place of the stock sender unit or in place of the hex-head plug in the front of the engine block, a little below the head gasket and just behind the timing chain case cover. mike c.