another 5.0 swap+turbo

[5.0Quest]

i just hooked the white wires thst powers everything to the starter silinoid.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/PA270039.jpg

did you run a wire from the ignition switch to the silinoid or did you just hook up the white wires Edited November 24, 2009 by 5.0Quest

[tim si]

the starter silenoid should be wired in with the ford wiring harness.i just connected the ford wiring that was connected to the original ford ign switch.i believe it was a heavier gauge red with green stripe wire that i hooked to the black with white stripe wire located in the 6-wire plug under the steering column that goes to the ign switch.there was another wire in the ford harness that went there too but i cant remember the color.some wires ,ford kept the same color code but ive found that some of the wires in the 5.0 harness dont match from year to year.do you know what your harness came out of?i might be able to help you track them down with my wiring diagram if it matches.

[5.0Quest]

the starter silenoid should be wired in with the ford wiring harness.i just connected the ford wiring that was connected to the original ford ign switch.i believe it was a heavier gauge red with green stripe wire that i hooked to the black with white stripe wire located in the 6-wire plug under the steering column that goes to the ign switch.there was another wire in the ford harness that went there too but i cant remember the color.some wires ,ford kept the same color code but ive found that some of the wires in the 5.0 harness dont match from year to year.do you know what your harness came out of?i might be able to help you track them down with my wiring diagram if it matches.

I picked up a harness from RJM injection it had a power wire to the battery for the ecm

And one wire goes to the ignition side of the switch and one wire goes to the run side of the switch

I didn't know if I just hook the white wires from the engine compartment to the silinoid if that

Would work the starter with the ignition switch or if I have to run a separate wire from the switch to

The silinoid to put power to the starter from the switch

[tim si]

i dont know about the white wires.if you could get someone to help you,you could hook a volt meter or even a test light to them and see if they only have voltage to them while the key is in the crank position.if it does during ''crank only it should work''.anything else and you should prob.run a new wire.i cant imagine them giving you a harness that doesnt include that wire but ''you never know''

[5.0Quest]

i dont know about the white wires.if you could get someone to help you,you could hook a volt meter or even a test light to them and see if they only have voltage to them while the key is in the crank position.if it does during ''crank only it should work''.anything else and you should prob.run a new wire.i cant imagine them giving you a harness that doesnt include that wire but ''you never know''

Thanks tim I really appreciate your help ill let you know what I find out thanks again

[BOHO]

Tim,

 

Did you get the height issues figured out?

 

Braden

[tim si]

ya i finally got it down some more.i wish i could get it a little lower but its probably for the best.we dont have the nicest roads around here anyway.the eibach springs are a little too stiff for me though.for some reason im having trouble with the spring hitting the threads on my coilover kit,its got them worn quite a bit.and making noise.you ever hear of this happening? Edited November 25, 2009 by tim si

[BOHO]

No...I havn't...Not sure how they could hit the threads...

[tim si]

the only thing i can think of is if the spring is bending in toward the strut.you can see the spring is very close to the strut in the front but has plenty of gap on the back side.youd think the spring is of on the adjuster or on the top hat but it isnt.it sits exactly where its supposed to.

[5.0Quest]

i dont know about the white wires.if you could get someone to help you,you could hook a volt meter or even a test light to them and see if they only have voltage to them while the key is in the crank position.if it does during ''crank only it should work''.anything else and you should prob.run a new wire.i cant imagine them giving you a harness that doesnt include that wire but ''you never know''

There is a small black/yellow wire in the conquest engine harness that runs power to the ford starter solinoid

[Dave-O]

Apologies for the 5-month bump, but this is great info. I'm looking into a 5.0/T5 swap from a '94 Cobra right now. It's good to know this all fits quite nicely and with relatively little modification.

[tim si]

its really not bad at all.the 94-95 5.0 has shorter water pump and pulleys which will help but i the throttle body elbow might be a tight fit.

[Dave-O]

It would be nice to fit everything under a stock, unmodified hood, but I won't be hurt if it doesn't. If I need to make any cuts or mods, I'll pick up a fiberglass '83-style repro and go nuts. I'm looking into some manifolds for a twin-turbo setup - I'd like to keep the bottom-end stock, but I'd go with an older Fox or Lincoln shortblock, as they've got the beefier forged internals that the '94-'95 Cobras do not. I'll probably do a blow-thru 90mm MAF / 42# injector setup and tune it myself with a Moates Quarterhorse and Clint Garrity's BinaryEditor.

[mykwest]

I'm new to posting on this board, but have been reading it for over five years, so please don't mistake my newbie status for lack of knowledge. I worked at Incon Systems from the prototype phase, through production, all the way 'til they closed their doors. This was the most highly-regarded twin turbo kit for 5.0's and 4.6's ever built, so I have some good background in turbo 5.0's. Your build is a massive undertaking, and I'm sure has taxed your time and wallet accordingly. As such, I can understand you making some compromises in your design, but I'd like to make a couple of suggestions, if not for you, for your readers. I have much respect for your build, I just want to interject.

 

1. An intercooler would dramatically lower your intake air temp, reduce detonation, and might save your head gaskets.

2. A proper tune is equally as important, as I think you already know. The best way to control the fuel on these motors is to re-calibrate the MAS.

3. Bump your initial timing back a couple of degrees from stock.

4. Your injectors are quite large. You'd find better driveability and more tunability with 32's.

5. You are definitely exceeding the limits of the stock block with your power goals. Unless you want to grenade it, I'd recommend limiting your boost to ~ 7 lbs. These blocks and bottom ends are good for about 450 hp, 500 is pushing it, and you're already over that number.

 

Again, I'm just trying to give some input to this already impressive build. I'd like to see you drive it without breaking stuff and plowing through headgaskets. At 450-500 hp, you'll have one of the most powerful, streetable, reliable Starquests on the planet. Call it good enough and focus on the reliable part.

 

I might be preaching to the choir here, but when I started working at Incon, my boss gave me a copy of "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. This is the be all, end all of how-to turbo books. Everyone who tweaks Starquests, especially with custom systems like yours, should read this book.

 

How do these cars handle with the V8 up front? I read that the weight is comparable, which surprises me, but the location of the engine would seem to effect handling/braking to some degree. Do you experience a lot of nose dive under braking or body roll in corners? I'm building a NA 5.0 Starquest of my own... your project has literally talked me out of turbos! It brought back all the bad memories and only a couple of the good ones (way more time spent wrenching than driving) I just want to drive this thing and 300-350 is good enough for me. Like I said, MUCH respect for your project. Good luck with it.

[Dave-O]

Excellent information mykwest.

 

So a stock forged 5.0 on 7-8 psi is good for almost 500hp? I can only imagine what my cammed '94 Cobra plant is making now all-motor ... I won't dare add boost to the Cobra shortblock, as I understand they're not forged like the more common 5.0s.

[helrazr70]

I'm new to posting on this board, but have been reading it for over five years, so please don't mistake my newbie status for lack of knowledge. I worked at Incon Systems from the prototype phase, through production, all the way 'til they closed their doors. This was the most highly-regarded twin turbo kit for 5.0's and 4.6's ever built, so I have some good background in turbo 5.0's. Your build is a massive undertaking, and I'm sure has taxed your time and wallet accordingly. As such, I can understand you making some compromises in your design, but I'd like to make a couple of suggestions, if not for you, for your readers. I have much respect for your build, I just want to interject.

 

1. An intercooler would dramatically lower your intake air temp, reduce detonation, and might save your head gaskets.

2. A proper tune is equally as important, as I think you already know. The best way to control the fuel on these motors is to re-calibrate the MAS.

3. Bump your initial timing back a couple of degrees from stock.

4. Your injectors are quite large. You'd find better driveability and more tunability with 32's.

5. You are definitely exceeding the limits of the stock block with your power goals. Unless you want to grenade it, I'd recommend limiting your boost to ~ 7 lbs. These blocks and bottom ends are good for about 450 hp, 500 is pushing it, and you're already over that number.

 

Again, I'm just trying to give some input to this already impressive build. I'd like to see you drive it without breaking stuff and plowing through headgaskets. At 450-500 hp, you'll have one of the most powerful, streetable, reliable Starquests on the planet. Call it good enough and focus on the reliable part.

 

I might be preaching to the choir here, but when I started working at Incon, my boss gave me a copy of "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. This is the be all, end all of how-to turbo books. Everyone who tweaks Starquests, especially with custom systems like yours, should read this book.

 

How do these cars handle with the V8 up front? I read that the weight is comparable, which surprises me, but the location of the engine would seem to effect handling/braking to some degree. Do you experience a lot of nose dive under braking or body roll in corners? I'm building a NA 5.0 Starquest of my own... your project has literally talked me out of turbos! It brought back all the bad memories and only a couple of the good ones (way more time spent wrenching than driving) I just want to drive this thing and 300-350 is good enough for me. Like I said, MUCH respect for your project. Good luck with it.

 

 

YEAH!!! what he ^^^^ said!

 

What were you thinking Tim? a V8 in a Conquest? ...and then you went a put a turbo on it? Really, What were you thinking?

 

You are such a NEWB!

 

[Dave-O]

Hahaha! I love it.

 

Do you have a thread for your build, helrazr? I'm trying to get as much info on the swap as possible before I start, any input from those who have actually done it would be grand.

[tim si]

I'm new to posting on this board, but have been reading it for over five years, so please don't mistake my newbie status for lack of knowledge. I worked at Incon Systems from the prototype phase, through production, all the way 'til they closed their doors. This was the most highly-regarded twin turbo kit for 5.0's and 4.6's ever built, so I have some good background in turbo 5.0's. Your build is a massive undertaking, and I'm sure has taxed your time and wallet accordingly. As such, I can understand you making some compromises in your design, but I'd like to make a couple of suggestions, if not for you, for your readers. I have much respect for your build, I just want to interject.

 

1. An intercooler would dramatically lower your intake air temp, reduce detonation, and might save your head gaskets.

2. A proper tune is equally as important, as I think you already know. The best way to control the fuel on these motors is to re-calibrate the MAS.

3. Bump your initial timing back a couple of degrees from stock.

4. Your injectors are quite large. You'd find better driveability and more tunability with 32's.

5. You are definitely exceeding the limits of the stock block with your power goals. Unless you want to grenade it, I'd recommend limiting your boost to ~ 7 lbs. These blocks and bottom ends are good for about 450 hp, 500 is pushing it, and you're already over that number.

 

Again, I'm just trying to give some input to this already impressive build. I'd like to see you drive it without breaking stuff and plowing through headgaskets. At 450-500 hp, you'll have one of the most powerful, streetable, reliable Starquests on the planet. Call it good enough and focus on the reliable part.

 

I might be preaching to the choir here, but when I started working at Incon, my boss gave me a copy of "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. This is the be all, end all of how-to turbo books. Everyone who tweaks Starquests, especially with custom systems like yours, should read this book.

 

How do these cars handle with the V8 up front? I read that the weight is comparable, which surprises me, but the location of the engine would seem to effect handling/braking to some degree. Do you experience a lot of nose dive under braking or body roll in corners? I'm building a NA 5.0 Starquest of my own... your project has literally talked me out of turbos! It brought back all the bad memories and only a couple of the good ones (way more time spent wrenching than driving) I just want to drive this thing and 300-350 is good enough for me. Like I said, MUCH respect for your project. Good luck with it.

both of my quest handle really well.ive owned 7 of these cars and the v-8 quests handle as well as the 2.6 quests.but i will admit ive never pushed any of them to the limits.i appreciate your advice and am not offended by it in the least.im very proud of my car and how its worked out so far.i do not feel like ive made compromises on my build,ive just not completed my project yet and would like to enjoy it along the way.i didnt get this far without doing my homework.

(1)i agree with you 100% on the intercooler,i just havent had time to try to make room.i considered water/meth but havent decided which route.i had the wrong headgaskets for my heads early in the build but now have the correct gaskets with no problems.

(2)i agree with you 100% on the tune but dyno time hasnt been an option yet and with an afr in the high 10s im sure theres more power in there.

(3)im not sure about bumping the timing back.that would only hurt the low end power and im using a btm to pull 1/2 degree per lb of boost.

(4)the injectors are large but they will work great in a 351 windsor if the 5.0 grenades lol.im running around 13.8 afr during normal driving and around 10.8 under boost so its not too bad.32s would have been pushing it in the 600hp range.btw im sure im under that mark since its not tuned and a little on the rich side.

(5)ive always been told the 5.0 can live a respectable life in the 600hp range as long as its not an everyday thing.most of the time my boost controller is set at 9lb but usually only sees 5 or 6lb under my driving.its very streetable with only a mild stumble every now and then with the a/c on.this is from not having the vss sensor wired in yet.the last time i drove the car a good distance,i got 19 mpg and that was with a/c and playing around some on the way.i appreciate your input and would like to know what your afr goals were at incon with the 5.0.if i ever do have trouble with the 5.0 ill probably be stepping up to the windsor

Edited April 22, 2010 by tim si

[tim si]

heres a good link to a turbo 5.0 build using 42lb injectors they dynoed 420 rwhp on 10 1/2 lb with a cobra intake with stock heads.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0901_custom_turbo_install/index.html

[tim si]

YEAH!!! what he ^^^^ said!

 

What were you thinking Tim? a V8 in a Conquest? ...and then you went a put a turbo on it? Really, What were you thinking?

 

You are such a NEWB!

 

lol,ill try to do better next time.if i ever do another build,it'll probably be a turbo dodge charger.im gettin old and need a 4 door.lol

[A.Wilder]

just found a 92 5.0 foxbody with a bent driveshaft for $700. I might have to start a v8 project for that cheap! This has been a very helpful read and good inspiration. It doesn't look nearly as hard as i thought it would and after talking to a friend it sounds like something we could accomplish this summer. My only question is: will you respond to pm's when i get stuck somewhere?

[tim si]

sure will,ive had several people ask questions.im very glad to help.

[A.Wilder]

Is there a website or forum post that covers needed items for doing a 5.0 w/ efi swap? I want to start pulling the old motor and get the chassis prepped for a swap so it doesn't take too long when i get to that point. Will i need a higher flowing fuel pump? a secondary fuel pump? how much of the wiring harness can i get rid of? are there any specific adapters i will need?

 

thanks!

[tim si]

ive listed everything i could think of in this thread.you will be fine with your fuel pump to start with.a 255 walbro is better.it will take some studying to find out what wires you can eliminate.unfortunately,theres not alot of info on putting a 5.0 in a quest but heres a helpful link.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1

Edited April 27, 2010 by tim si

[Dave-O]

ive listed everything i could think of in this thread.you will be fine with your fuel pump to start with.a 255 walbro is better.it will take some studying to find out what wires you can eliminate.unfortunately,theres not alot of info on putting a 5.0 in a quest but heres a helpful link.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1

 

Man that is an amazing resource! I bookmarked that on both my computer and my phone for when I start pulling stuff out of the Cobra. I want to take the time to de-pin and re-loom the harness[es] before putting them in the Starion, so I'll try and remember to take pics of my work and possibly get some wiring diagrams drawn up.