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you'll want to secure the oil pressure supply line, there have been sevearl failures over the years with insuppoted hardlines cracking at the fittings. Heat + vibration + high pressure = cracked line. makes a reall mess of things under the hood, and will kill a turbo if not shut down right away.
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That's a great idea with the sensor in the t-stat housing. I think I'll do that to my car. What did you do on the water pump side? Do you know which wire from the stock harness plugs into that sensor? Wire colors? Also, were did you get your temp. sensor from? I got rid of all the stock intake stuff.

 

Thanks,

Alex

 

I actually just used a non-turbo 2.6L water pump and t-stat housing. They dont come with the extra water ports:)

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  • 2 weeks later...

New pics:

 

Engine bay with all wires run and tucked away for the most part. Also, I have most of the tubing run, as you can see, I need to put some worm gear clamps on that I have. It's getting closer and closer to go time for the welder.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02239.JPG

 

 

And here's a closer view (2 angles). I do have enough room there for I/C pipes. In the second one, you can see how I mounted the oil/air seperator. I will probably paint that piece of metal black.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02240.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02241.JPG

 

Here's the inside. I will just have to cut a little of the plastic in that area to fit the AEM. stupid huge ecu.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02243.JPG

 

I'll post more next friday when I get a chance to see the car again. I love this car, and I can't wait to drive it. I'm having dreams about driving it.

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Got some more stuff on the way, turbo oil drain hose, I will order fittings soon for that, along with a 4" long x 4" diameter intake tube, and a blow off valve. I'll need to get the oil pan modified. I might take it off myself. Dunno.
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REF: idle issue

 

 

I found that if I just slightly bend the arm that hits the idle screw I was able to adjust the idle. Dont know if your still having this problem but if you are this should fix it.

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autoxer: thanks for the tip, I will try that!

 

I worked on it a bit more today, re-arranged some of the wiring for the ecu, basically stuffed it up in there more so it would fit. I moved the harness that comes up for the door stuff and fuel pump to the "front" of the ecu, front facing the passenger, anyway, I can get a picture of that later, but the ecu now sits flush against the metal, and barely fits behind the plastic cover. Anyway, I'm happy with it, and the rest of the interior is basically done now. I guess the master cylinder is still bad, so I can probably take that off and either replace or repair it. stupid thing.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02247.JPG

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I may be a little slow on this, But I just saw tha you live GV, MN. I live in inver grove heights, MN maybe we could hook up so I could see your car because I want to do that to mine
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Yeah, we should. I won't be in the cities until august because of summer classes, but after that I plan on staying around that area. I would like to have this car done by the all-mitsu cookout this summer. We'll see though. It's going to take a big wad of cash to do that.
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brought up my floorjack and loosened the e-brake levers on the calipers, now it rolls. I don't know what my welder guy would say about keeping the car there for a while, but even if he said it's ok, I wonder how much it would cost for the work he'd do. It's going to probably cost another 400 bucks in parts alone.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Wow, I figured out that I don't have to buy any AN fittings at all, and I got a -10 pushlock hose for free.99 so the oil return is all ready to be installed, save for the oil pan modification. I have a t4 drain tube attachment from a truck turbo that i've had for years. I'll get this thing running again within the month.
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So, I moved it to the basement (dungeon) of the warehouse it's at, and realized how small it really is (once again).

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02272.JPG

 

And here is my 5 dollar solution to the oil drain problem. It's still a problem, but much less costly a problem.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02273.JPG

The fitting you see in this picture is a 1/2" pipe thread weld-on steel fitting I got at a hydraulic supply and repair place I found today. the hardware store and autoparts store had nothing like what I needed, and this one was perfect, it allows me to weld it to the oil pan and re-use my oil drain fitting that came on the car, just in a different location (the timing cover to be exact).

 

I didn't notice this until I saw this picture, but that pushlock hose is "LOL" hose, haha.

 

Also, the reason I took it down to the basement is because it's cement and I can jack it up and drop the pan to have it welded.

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So, I solved my little problem with that oil drain fitting that bolts to the turbo. At first it was awesome, then I realized it's much bigger than -10, maybe it was -12. Those semi's have to flow a lot of oil. but not me, so today I cut it up a bit and welded it up at a smaller diameter, ground it down, rewelded where I missed or burned a hole. it's not super easy with a non-gas hobby welder, but I got the hang of it right at the end, lol. then I ground it down and doused it in some rust-preventing black enamel and baked 'er in the oven for a bit to cure the paint.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSC02296.JPG

 

Next I have to take the oil pan off, oh the joy. :unamused:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got the oil pan off today and will probably weld in the fitting myself. I also wanted to weld in some baffles so oil doesn't slosh backward from centrifugal donut action or launches. I was thinking of welding some pieces to the slanted section that look like this:

 

_/\ /\ /\

/\ /\ /\ /\

 

So oil doesn't flow ^ that way if the pickup is down here:

 

(_)

 

p.s. nevermind the spacer - the forum doesn't like blank spaces.

Edited by Technology
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Well, the guy welding it races dirt track cars, and he's done oil pans before and showed me some of the stuff he's done, i just went with what he has done before, just a plate that essentially continues the stock oil splash "shelf" around to the back side. Should be fine. I can't wait to get it back. Should be tomorrow.
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Here's my oilpan back from welding:

 

The bung for turbo oil drain.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02300.JPG

 

Here's the baffle, very nice.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02301.JPG

 

Different angle with flash.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02302.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I got another part that will come in handy.

 

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02303.JPG

 

And my oil pan mod got some attention and was copied with great success in my buddy's car, he's rebuilding his engine, so it was quite a bit more convenient for him. I'll snap some pics tomorrow for him.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A little more from this weekend, I got all the underbody stuff put back on. And a shot of how I mounted the PS reservoir and oil seperator. I poured in some oil, installed a new filter, and tried to start 'er up, it hiccuped once and backfired in the intake manifold, so I quit. I need a downpipe and I/C pipes anyway. Once I get those I'll play with the aem.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02310.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC02316.JPG

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Great success!

 

I'll leave you to your own on these pics, fellas! (sorry for the blurry images, I must be on some kind of crack or something.)

 

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01389.JPG

 

Are you going to have to have this piece rewelded when you change your cam?

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If I change the cam, yes I will have to have whatever new cam I put in modified just as that was. If this cam turns out to be lame, I might try the stocker, since it does give a lot of torque. Then again, a 292 regrind is just 100 bucks. We'll see. Thanks for the comment!
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To bad your not in Texas because I would love for you to show me how you separated the wiring harness. I will be going MS with EDIS so I dont want the harness in there at all that I dont need. Any tips on how to remove the harness on the drivers side?
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