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She is a beast!


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Finally, all the work and efforts on my car paid off. No more head gasket issues as I ran my car in the street multiple times @ 28psi of boost and she is loving everybit of it. Thanks to all you guys with your help and FIP for their awesome system, I can say that she is finally driving just like I wanted for years.
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Finally, all the work and efforts on my car paid off. No more head gasket issues as I ran my car in the street multiple times @ 28psi of boost and she is loving everybit of it. Thanks to all you guys with your help and FIP for their awesome system, I can say that she is finally driving just like I wanted for years.

 

ok how much to the wheels?

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Ok Here are my mods: Someone can sticky these mods if they want to.

 

Intake: FIP Hurricane-1000cc injectors-SX fuel Regulator, XS power intercooler 3" inlet/outlet and 4" thick :lol: All aluminum polished 3" piping with Tial 50mm BOV.I got Krankvent kit from Kelly...its great!

 

Exhaust: STOCK, welded T3 flange, and ported to match T3 Flange. Modified to take external 38mm Tial Wastegate.WORKS Excellent if you know someone that can weld cast iron well! 3" stainless steel exhaust system all the way to the back where it meets Magnaflow SS Muffler.

 

Engine: ARP everywhere, JE 40 over, shot peened rods, crank, balanced. Hi Vol oil pump. (No total seal..they are crap, get the hastings chrome rings) + BS elimination, and all Mitsu gaskets (very important)

 

Head: NON PORTED but O-RINGED! TimC's Hyabusta Roller cam (287)-1.6 ratio rockers, 1mm os SS Valves, Felpro Headgasket. 8770

 

Turbo: Ebay SSautochrome Super T70. (.70 A/R compressor, .84 A/R exhaust) Works GRRREAT!

 

Electronics: FIP FUEL and IGNITION computers...simple to use and perfect for what I wanted with my car. ED-IS-ON distributorless system + coil packs + MSD 8mm Superconductor wires. Spark Plugs are NGK BPR8HS, they are correct length for the marnal head (Thanks to Artinist's discovery) AEM Uego Wideband (very important for tuning) I will eventually add a EGT sensor.

 

FUEL pump is also an SX performance Pump + upgraded 1/2" aluminum fuel line.

 

Drive train is Stock except the ACT Xtreme Clutch kit + Fidanza flywheel.

 

Cooling is 350 chevy radiator modified to fit, Spal 16" fan (not enough-I need more fans since I will be using my AC).

 

I have been driving her daily since it was finished and I am very happy. I can actually drive her daily, something I never thought I could do! Gas mileage is great too since my turbo does not spool until 4000 RPM.

 

 

Thats all I can remember now, but I know there are other things I am forgetting to mention! Already have mokeeh coilovers but I will be upgrading to Full adj. coilover susp, along with strut braces and camber plates...its time to tighten her up! And a good paint job should seal the deal!

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redline is set in the FIP ecu as 7600 rpm but I can push it further, I know she will go to 8k if I wanted to, but I hate reving the car that much since the forces at those engine speeds severely reduces engine life. Yes I need to get to the Dyno! But I will be going to Florida next week and the car will hibernate until christmas.
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redline is set in the FIP ecu as 7600 rpm but I can push it further, I know she will go to 8k if I wanted to, but I hate reving the car that much since the forces at those engine speeds severely reduces engine life. Yes I need to get to the Dyno! But I will be going to Florida next week and the car will hibernate until christmas.

 

 

Dude seriously,

What are you doin this weekend

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redline is set in the FIP ecu as 7600 rpm but I can push it further, I know she will go to 8k if I wanted to, but I hate reving the car that much since the forces at those engine speeds severely reduces engine life. Yes I need to get to the Dyno! But I will be going to Florida next week and the car will hibernate until christmas.

 

 

Dude seriously,

What are you doin this weekend

 

+1 :D

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  • 3 weeks later...
How much tuning did you have to do to the Hurricane system once you got it running? MPI is on my list. Been researching and weigh cost of DIY verses buying ready to rock. TIA.
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Once I got the stuff installed, and made sure everything working right, I drove out and did 28psi...they have done a pretty good job of Ignition and Fuel map tuning for the quest...and I just told them what cam I was running and ED sent me a map and it was over!
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It doesn't seem too terribly hard to install. Is there anything you didn't like about it? Even though it's expensive, it's probably the best way to go (aggrivation wise) besides it looks so good it will make me tidy up the rest of my engine compartment. Looking forward to dyno numbers. Any pics? Thanks for the 411. Keep spoolin'.
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well it was not hard to install at all, the hardest part was waiting to get the kit, as I was a part of the group purchase and I had to wait for stuff, and ofcourse the head gasket issues would not allow me to turn the boost any higher than 25psi. But overall once I had all necessary parts it was pretty easy to install, and tuning wasnt too bad, Ofcourse I am a bitjz and did everything right..so it took me a longer time...but well worth the effort as the car is just nasty..no one expected my 2.6 to hold up or last long enough to enjoy it...but I got to drive it everyday for around a month and with no issues, driving it hard too...I too am looking forward to the dyno day.
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well it was not hard to install at all, the hardest part was waiting to get the kit, as I was a part of the group purchase and I had to wait for stuff, and ofcourse the head gasket issues would not allow me to turn the boost any higher than 25psi. But overall once I had all necessary parts it was pretty easy to install, and tuning wasnt too bad, Ofcourse I am a bitjz and did everything right..so it took me a longer time...but well worth the effort as the car is just nasty..no one expected my 2.6 to hold up or last long enough to enjoy it...but I got to drive it everyday for around a month and with no issues, driving it hard too...I too am looking forward to the dyno day.

 

What kind of gaskets where you using before you O-ringed the head? I have a Ajusa laying around that I will use when I get a new head. I'm just looking for it to hold 20-24psi for now. Once I build an engine I'll o-ring the head for more boost.

 

Nice work! I'm really impressed!

 

Shawn

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What kind of gaskets where you using before you O-ringed the head? I have a Ajusa laying around that I will use when I get a new head. I'm just looking for it to hold 20-24psi for now. Once I build an engine I'll o-ring the head for more boost.

 

Nice work! I'm really impressed!

 

Shawn

 

What gasket didnt I use Shawn... I pretty much used whatever there was...Fel Pro to ajusa to titan ICS and I finally gave up to the O-ringed head and fel-pro gasket...works like a charm! That was worth the R&D.

 

Now I need some of your strut bars and a custom suspension for her to Hook to the Asphalt and I should be good...that is ofcourse if the drivetrain holds up long enough....Im already saving up for Chad's T56 conversion

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What kind of gaskets where you using before you O-ringed the head? I have a Ajusa laying around that I will use when I get a new head. I'm just looking for it to hold 20-24psi for now. Once I build an engine I'll o-ring the head for more boost.

 

Nice work! I'm really impressed!

 

Shawn

 

What gasket didnt I use Shawn... I pretty much used whatever there was...Fel Pro to ajusa to titan ICS and I finally gave up to the O-ringed head and fel-pro gasket...works like a charm! That was worth the R&D.

 

Now I need some of your strut bars and a custom suspension for her to Hook to the Asphalt and I should be good...that is ofcourse if the drivetrain holds up long enough....Im already saving up for Chad's T56 conversion

 

 

Ha ha, good answer! I'm just hoping my Ajusa holds up to 20-ish PSI for a little bit. I am thinking of o-ringing the block instead of the head when I do my build. I will at least use some copper sealant on the gasket to see if that helps hold.

 

I'll be doing more bars here in a little over a month when I get back from Brazil.

 

Drive-train, ;) I don't think it's going to hold up well if you're hooking up with that kind of power. Chad's conversion is the way to go.

 

Shawn

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What kind of gaskets where you using before you O-ringed the head? I have a Ajusa laying around that I will use when I get a new head. I'm just looking for it to hold 20-24psi for now. Once I build an engine I'll o-ring the head for more boost.

 

Nice work! I'm really impressed!

 

Shawn

 

What gasket didnt I use Shawn... I pretty much used whatever there was...Fel Pro to ajusa to titan ICS and I finally gave up to the O-ringed head and fel-pro gasket...works like a charm! That was worth the R&D.

 

Now I need some of your strut bars and a custom suspension for her to Hook to the Asphalt and I should be good...that is ofcourse if the drivetrain holds up long enough....Im already saving up for Chad's T56 conversion

 

 

Ha ha, good answer! I'm just hoping my Ajusa holds up to 20-ish PSI for a little bit. I am thinking of o-ringing the block instead of the head when I do my build. I will at least use some copper sealant on the gasket to see if that helps hold.

 

I'll be doing more bars here in a little over a month when I get back from Brazil.

 

Drive-train, ;) I don't think it's going to hold up well if you're hooking up with that kind of power. Chad's conversion is the way to go.

 

Shawn

 

As far as the Ajusa, it WILL hold up to 20-23 psi everyday ofcourse with ARP's. But I just think that this O-ringed head works great.

If I were you, I woulnt even bother O-ringing the block because you would have to also cut receiver grooves in the head to basically recieve the Oring from the bolck and you MUST use copper...this is usually all out drag racing engines.

 

But here is why I say O-ring the head. From what I have experienced and noted from all those blown HG's, the compression seeps between the head and the Gasket, which was noted by the dark carbon deposits left on the gasket and the head, where there was no marks on the block (almost negligible if any)...Meaning that the head lifts over certain combustion pressures and the O-ringed head fixed that. Now I just go and boost!

 

Let me tell you. Copper HG is just BS. Its a headache...it leaks almost right after the first warm up. Not worth it for a daily driver or STREET car. It just doesn't do well when its sandwiched between alum head and cast iron block...which both have different thermal expansion properties.

 

Typical O-ring job goes for around $150-200 and is much more convenient too!

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What kind of gaskets where you using before you O-ringed the head? I have a Ajusa laying around that I will use when I get a new head. I'm just looking for it to hold 20-24psi for now. Once I build an engine I'll o-ring the head for more boost.

 

Nice work! I'm really impressed!

 

Shawn

 

What gasket didnt I use Shawn... I pretty much used whatever there was...Fel Pro to ajusa to titan ICS and I finally gave up to the O-ringed head and fel-pro gasket...works like a charm! That was worth the R&D.

 

Now I need some of your strut bars and a custom suspension for her to Hook to the Asphalt and I should be good...that is ofcourse if the drivetrain holds up long enough....Im already saving up for Chad's T56 conversion

 

 

Ha ha, good answer! I'm just hoping my Ajusa holds up to 20-ish PSI for a little bit. I am thinking of o-ringing the block instead of the head when I do my build. I will at least use some copper sealant on the gasket to see if that helps hold.

 

I'll be doing more bars here in a little over a month when I get back from Brazil.

 

Drive-train, ;) I don't think it's going to hold up well if you're hooking up with that kind of power. Chad's conversion is the way to go.

 

Shawn

 

As far as the Ajusa, it WILL hold up to 20-23 psi everyday ofcourse with ARP's. But I just think that this O-ringed head works great.

If I were you, I woulnt even bother O-ringing the block because you would have to also cut receiver grooves in the head to basically recieve the Oring from the bolck and you MUST use copper...this is usually all out drag racing engines.

 

But here is why I say O-ring the head. From what I have experienced and noted from all those blown HG's, the compression seeps between the head and the Gasket, which was noted by the dark carbon deposits left on the gasket and the head, where there was no marks on the block (almost negligible if any)...Meaning that the head lifts over certain combustion pressures and the O-ringed head fixed that. Now I just go and boost!

 

Let me tell you. Copper HG is just BS. Its a headache...it leaks almost right after the first warm up. Not worth it for a daily driver or STREET car. It just doesn't do well when its sandwiched between alum head and cast iron block...which both have different thermal expansion properties.

 

Typical O-ring job goes for around $150-200 and is much more convenient too!

 

 

Cool, thanks for the tips!

I was thinking of o-ringing the block because if I go through a head I won't have to o-ring again. But since I would need to have the head setup for the o-ringed block, I will o-ring the head like you suggested.

I wouldn't go with a cooper head gasket. I will use some cooper sealant on the gasket though just for a little extra help.

It's good to know the Ajusa will hold 20+psi with some ARP's. My 83-86 style Felpro hasn't blown yet with 14-15psi and once 18psi, with the ARP's. I won't be boosting 20+psi daily, so I think the gasket will hold for the time being. I'm just waiting to get a new head before I really start boosting it.

 

Thanks again,

Shawn

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"If I were you, I woulnt even bother O-ringing the block because you would have to also cut receiver grooves in the head to basically recieve the Oring from the bolck and you MUST use copper...this is usually all out drag racing engines."

 

 

So then where does the headgasket fit in?

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