Megasquirt questions? How to set-up? Just ask! Diagram post!

[sittin-sideways]

You just download it and then flash it to the firmware. Check out the links here http://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm

If you have further questions (and you will) we are here to help

 

thank very much, so i just go to firmware section and look for megasquirt n spark extra. download. thanks./

[sittin-sideways]

nevermind. Edited October 27, 2009 by sittin-sideways

[lester]

You just download it and then flash it to the firmware. Check out the links here http://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm

If you have further questions (and you will) we are here to help

 

 

Hi

 

Can you advise me how different is diyautotune compared to efianalytics? I am reviving MPI installation right now. See here. Appreciate any advice and feedback. Thanks.

Edited August 27, 2010 by lester

[psu_Crash]

I recommend TunerStudio, but either will work just fine.

[lester]

I recommend TunerStudio, but either will work just fine.

I'm getting Scott's help on programming a MS v3.57 board with plug and play into the stock harness to control spark and fuel. Will be locking distributor, splicing injector harness, taking care of coolant and fuel plumbing. Hope all goes well. I'm the only Starion engine in Singapore.

[psu_Crash]

That's very cool Lester, Best of luck!

[kf4eok]

I am trying to set up my MSII VER. 3 to run sequential injection and COP ignition.

I am running the MSExtra 303x code

I have a 4 cylinder engine with a custom built intake, 4 injectors and 4 COP.

I have 4 BIP373 wired to control the COP

I have a jdperf Peak&Hold Injector Driver Board to control my low-z injectors

I have done the modification which connects pin 1 of the NAND gate chip (U2) on the MS2 card to pin 4 of the 40-pin header and pin 4 of U2 to pin 5 of the header.

I have a ford type 36-1 tooth wheel with the stock VR sensor pickup.

I have a cam sensor that I made that has a 2 hall sensor within it, one that has one tooth and one that has 4 windows. I will be using the 1 tooth side and when it sees a gap it switches to ground and goes high (4 volt) when it sees a tooth.

(?#1) I have built the second trigger input (hall effect sensor) circuit which connects to JS10.

My question is should I be using this input selection?

For the VR sensor:

• Jumper VRIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB (near the DB37, opposite the heat sink.)

• Jumper TSEL to VROUT (Or VROUTINV if you want the VR input to be inverted) on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.

(?#2) Also I have a jumper from JS9 to S12C and from S12c to the top of C30. I cannot remember what this is for. Should I remove them?

(?#3) In TS ignition options what setting should I be using for the spark mode? I think tooth wheel.

(?#4) In TS trigger wheel settings should I be using dual wheel, trigger wheel 36-1, second wheel active on falling edge, and every rotation of cam?

Could someone check my ideas and settings and let me know if I am on the right track?

Thanks

Here is a link to my project

http://thestarquestclub.com/forums/t5/

 

Update: Engine is running.

 

I have the tooth #1 Angle(BTDC) set at 637.0 With the timming set to fixed this gives me a 10 Deg. BTDC with a timming light. I this correct? The engine seems to run ok, it idles much better now, reves ok, I haven't test drove the car with this setup as of yet. I did notice that I donot have the trigger wizard option with these settings. is this normal?

i also noticed that I have lost the option to set the injector PWM current limit settings. is this normal? Where or how do I set the PWM settings? I have low-z injectors and a jdperf Peak&Hold Injector Driver Board. I have decided to use a CNP (coil near plug) setup instead of the COP setup. The reason for this is that the coils #3 and #4 are to close to the turbo and exhaust system and I had a meltdown while getting the engine running.

 

http://thestarquestclub.com/images/PB283965.JPG http://thestarquestc...es/PB283965.JPG

I have ordered some 2N4033 transistors and LS2 Yukon truck coils and harness to set up the CNP setup.

 

My .msq file

 

Thanks for any responses and help on checking out my progress.

[QuestFan]

Which wire and what color is it on the stock ECU harness do I need to splice into for the fuel pump?

[Shelby]

my sugestion to first timers is to run the stock dist set up first with a caravan igniter,,, simple and all stock funtions work,, get your fuel map set up then start working on the timeing ecu control system,,

this is by far the easyest way to get set up and runing,, cause you only have to learn one section at a time , as for first time start up all you need is a map from a car with the same injs install'd , mimial changes will have to be to

the fuel map made , lots of these maps arround

 

all you need to run a MS system with stock dist is a dealer caravan igniter place'd inside the dist and the caravan pig tail wireing , the MS useing the neg coil terminal for ign pulse and your up and runing,, i will deff sugest a shield'd rpm signal wire to the ecu ,, simple enought any multi wire cb coax will work

 

now once you have the fuel map down pat,, you can move on to the ecu control'd timeing if you want , but for up to 20 lbs boost on a 20g i never had a moments problem out of the stock dist system with the caravan igniter

 

some have had problems with the caravan after market igniter,,but part of that may have been they did not use the heat desipateing grease on the bottom of the igniter,,, same as the gm model use'd

oh i have use'd the single gm modual and the dual gm modual,, and had back fire problems,, one reason was the ecu did not have a 5 volt referance signal out put for the moduals

 

for the full ecu timeing control i'd deff sugest the use of a magna dist

[polarisman14]

Why use the caravan igniter versus the stock one that comes in there?

[slowquest]

the stock quest dist does not have an "igniter" in it, just a reluctor wheel. The stock ignition system would still need the knock box, which is really an igniter. MS can't use any signal from the knock box, or actually, it probably can, but no one has done it yet.

[polarisman14]

Let me ask you this, then. I have MSII with 3.57 and I am running stock ignition. For the time being the stock ECU will be controlling spark and fuel pump and I'll just be using the MS2 to control the fuel injectors.

 

It's already set up in the car and I have spark, the car is timed correctly, has 42psi of fuel pressure on cranking, but it won't start. All old gas has been drained from the tank and new gas has been put in. It runs great on starting fluid and this came from a running car set up similar to mine.

 

Trying to figure out if the injectors are firing at all or if it's just a tuning issue. I am leaning toward not firing at all because if they were it'd probably run like crap but still chug and cough.

 

Where are you taking your switched 12v for from the injector controller? My setup has 4 wires from those going to a ring lug and I have the ring lug going to the +12v on the coil. Should I be getting this power elsewhere? Also, does the fuel injector controller body need to be grounded? It isn't currently attached to anything as I am trying to find a good place to put it. Here's my best reference picture I have:

 

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/DSCN0617.jpg

Edited June 25, 2011 by polarisman14

[slowquest]

The stock ECU does NOTHING with spark control, that's all through the knock box.

 

Your MSII will control the fuel pump itself, no need to use the stock ECU for that.

 

Where are you getting your rpm input to the MSII from? If your running a complete stock ignition system, you'll need a gm (or similiar) ignition module to give MS the proper signal, otherwise, it'll never fire the injectors.

 

The switched power to the MS should come from the ignition switch. NOT off the coil. The easiest way to do that is off of the connector by the glove box, either b37 or b38 depending on what year your car is.

[slowquest]

Which wire and what color is it on the stock ECU harness do I need to splice into for the fuel pump?

 

 

Large gauge wire, black with a white tracer, in the passenger side footwell kick panel.

 

If you remove the stock engine harness, it's real nice to re-use part of it for power to the MS and the fuel pump using the stock relay. Indiana has the best write up on that at b2600.com

[polarisman14]

The stock ECU does NOTHING with spark control, that's all through the knock box.

 

Your MSII will control the fuel pump itself, no need to use the stock ECU for that.

 

Where are you getting your rpm input to the MSII from? If your running a complete stock ignition system, you'll need a gm (or similiar) ignition module to give MS the proper signal, otherwise, it'll never fire the injectors.

 

The switched power to the MS should come from the ignition switch. NOT off the coil. The easiest way to do that is off of the connector by the glove box, either b37 or b38 depending on what year your car is.

 

I thought the knock box was wired into the ECU somehow so I left the stock ECU intact for the time being. I also left the stock wiring harness in the car--is there anything in there that needs to be hooked up in order for the car to run on MS2? The car is a wiring nightmare as is so if I can remove the engine harness and ECU from the car with no ill effects easily I would rather do that.

 

I am getting the tach signal (is this the same as the RPM input?) from the negative terminal on the ignition coil.

 

What do I have to do to control the fuel pump with megasquirt? I have the megamanual on my computer but it is a LOT of information to take in all at once.

 

Is the connector by the glove box on the engine side or interior side of the firewall? I'm looking to avoid running any more wires through the firewall so if there is a wire in the engine bay I can take power from easily I would rather do that.

 

Thanks for your help, I'm a newb when it comes to MS and I would rather educate myself and do it right the first time.

 

EDIT: I just realized something. My computer does have what looks like a DB-15 port for a serial output for a monitor, but no DB9 for an input. This presents a problem but in the megamanual it says that you can use a serial to USB adapter. Will MegaTune still recognize a USB input as a valid way for the MS2 to relay information to my computer? Is there anything I have to do to make it recognize the USB?

Edited June 25, 2011 by polarisman14

[slowquest]

I thought the knock box was wired into the ECU somehow so I left the stock ECU intact for the time being. I also left the stock wiring harness in the car--is there anything in there that needs to be hooked up in order for the car to run on MS2? The car is a wiring nightmare as is so if I can remove the engine harness and ECU from the car with no ill effects easily I would rather do that.

 

I've pulled the engine harness and stock ECU on every MS'd Quest I've done so far. I use the power feed from the b37/b38 connector to power the MS and fuel pump. I've done both a stock fuel pump relay and a Bosch relay, I think the Bosch setup is easier. The only "bad" things about removing the engine harness is that you lose your oil pressure and temp gauges in the dash, but those are easily put back in, just gotta run 2 wires through the MS harness

 

I am getting the tach signal (is this the same as the RPM input?) from the negative terminal on the ignition coil.

 

Yes, same thing. I've never done that, but it should work if done properly. Do you show an RPM reading in Megatune?

 

 

What do I have to do to control the fuel pump with megasquirt? I have the megamanual on my computer but it is a LOT of information to take in all at once.

 

hook the purple wire to the control side of a relay, with switched ignition to the other side, then battery power to the controlled side, and the fuel pump black/white wire to the other controlled side.

 

 

Is the connector by the glove box on the engine side or interior side of the firewall? I'm looking to avoid running any more wires through the firewall so if there is a wire in the engine bay I can take power from easily I would rather do that.

 

Interior side, which is where your MS should be, it won't last long in the heat of the engine bay

 

 

Thanks for your help, I'm a newb when it comes to MS and I would rather educate myself and do it right the first time.

 

EDIT: I just realized something. My computer does have what looks like a DB-15 port for a serial output for a monitor, but no DB9 for an input. This presents a problem but in the megamanual it says that you can use a serial to USB adapter. Will MegaTune still recognize a USB input as a valid way for the MS2 to relay information to my computer? Is there anything I have to do to make it recognize the USB?

 

No problem on the help, I was in your shoes before, I understand how overwhelming it can be. And yes, the USB will work just fine, just gotta have the right USB to db adapter, I've never used one, so don't know exactly what works and what don't though.

[polarisman14]

I can't hook it up to my computer just yet so I can't check it with megatune.

 

Although it is in the engine bay it's where the factory battery was, on the intake side and in front of the strut tower. It should stay cool there and I was thinking of relocating it to just behind the header panel along with the battery just to un-clutter everything. if it was there it would be in front of the radiator and everything else so it wouldn't be subject to the higher underhood temps. I just want to get it running first.

 

Back to reading the megamanual for me...Lots of learning to do before I get the car back from paint!

 

EDIT: I got a couple other questions. Is it necessary to have the coolant temp sensor for the fuel-only setup? Also, is it necessary to have a IAC motor somewhere in the system? I would think no to the IAC as the previous owner of the system didn't have one, but a "definite maybe" to the CHT sensor. I have the connector in place but I don't have the sensor itself and was wondering if it was something I should get.

Edited June 25, 2011 by polarisman14

[slowquest]

Even if it's running cool enough, I'd be real worried about getting moisture in it. That's even an issue when they are inside the car, underhood can only be worse. I strongly recommend remounting it inside the car.

 

You do need the CTS, I'd call it required, although technically, the car will run without it, just not very well.

 

You do not need an IAC, none of the ones I've done had one.

[polarisman14]

That sounds good. I'll order one and get it in the mail. I already have a CTS that is in the thermostat housing neck (single spade terminal, apparently less accurate and harder to work with. So I just have to take the old one out and tap the new one.

[slowquest]

Easiest way is to just remove the egr thermovalve and use a GM sender in that hole, threads right in.

[polarisman14]

Is this a coolant temp sensor or cylinder head temp sensor we're talking about?

 

Can you tell me where the EGR thermovalve is? For reference I am running the FIP Hurricane manifold (If it matters).

[slowquest]

Is this a coolant temp sensor or cylinder head temp sensor we're talking about?

 

Can you tell me where the EGR thermovalve is? For reference I am running the FIP Hurricane manifold (If it matters).

 

 

Didn't realize you had the Hurricane. I've never actually looked at one before, so I'm not 100% sure where the CTS would go on that one, but anywhere in a coolant passage, preferably as close to the tstat as possible (before the tstat, not after though)

[polarisman14]

I don't have the car in front of me so I am not sure but I believe there is a plug in the manifold flange right off the head right now. If there is I can just put it there and that should be perfect provided it's the right thread...I'm not taking the manifold off to do that, lol.

 

What parameters will I have to look at in order to properly tune the car, given that I am running fuel only on it? I want to make sure I'll be adjusting stuff that actually impacts how the car runs, lol...If you have specific names that'd be really helpful. Since I can fetch the values from the ECU I can save those as reference points to start from and go from there.

[polarisman14]

Okay,

 

The car finally runs. It doesn't stay running, though, and I think the problem may be something that I or the previous owner did.

 

How are the fuel injectors supposed to be banked to run properly on our cars? I believe on my setup 1&4 are on one bank and 2&3 are on the other, but according to this diagram:

 

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/extwir.gif

 

Injectors 1 and 2 are supposed to be on pins 32/33 and injectors 3 and 4 are supposed to be on pins 34 and 35. Does this matter? I thought I read somewhere that this didn't matter but it could explain why the car will start but not continue running.

 

Thanks!

[89BananaQuest]

Ok this thread is kinda old but it seams like the best place to ask it. I just got a ms1 set up with the v3 board. Now from what i have read ms1 wont control ignition.... What would i need to do to convert it to ms2?