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1G ('90-94) TURBO MAS conversion


Boosted_One
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There have been two seperate posts regarding the star shaped cardboard insert near the intake tube.  Is it detrimental to remove it or not?  I'm at the point that I'm making my cold air intake and fixing some damage done to the waste gate solenoid nipple during a recent oil change(stupid).  I can either leave it in or out right now.  Also can the fuel vapor canister be effectively removed by plugging plugging the lines or is more involved?  Any help is appreciated, thanks.
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Thanks dfowler!  I left it off and the car runs great.  I also cut the connector base on the AFS so that the stock connector from my harness would fit.  It works pretty well, only thing is sometimes my idle drifts from like a thousnad to about five hundred.  I've only had it on for today and it's happened twice.  Otherwise I could tell an immediate difference.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Poeple say there are getting a SAFC unit and use that to modify the mixture a bit

 

What is a SAFC?

 

I've seen so many wiring diagram for 87 to 89 1GMASS upgrade, but which one is the correct one, and a known fact that it works and been tested.  Thanks you guys, BOOM....

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SAFC is the Apexi, Super- Air Flow Converter.  Its basically a piggyback computer that intercepts the mass air meter signal and allows you to change it thereby tricking the ECU into thinking a different amount of air is entering the engine than is actually the case.  

 

http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_safc.asp

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Ooooh thank you, very good info ;D.  I will definitely get this!!! Are the wiring installation on the 1GMASS the same?  How do we install it along with one 1GMASS? Thanks Boom ;)
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Hey there, I was about to hook up my 1GMASS on my 87 starion, but the 1GMASS is different.

 

The direction say,

 

 

1-G DSM  Connector

 

 =

7123

x456

 

 

1=Green/Blue

2=Large Red

3=Green/Red

4=Green/Black

5=Green/Yellow

6=Green/Orange

 

 

The donor connector from 93 mitsubishi eclipes

 

 =

7123

456x

 

 

1 = Large red with blue dot

2=Green/Blue

3=White/Green

4=Yellow/Green

5=Green/Black

6=Orange/Green

7=Red/Green

8x

 

 

?1  Notice the X is different, that means that the numbering is all different too.

 

?2 What should I do as far as hooking them up?  Should I hook it up to color code, or buy number ???

 

Would someone please help :-[

Thanks BooM...

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  • 3 weeks later...
Boom, You're looking at the connector from the wrong side. Turn it around so that you are looking at the end where the wires enter, and the diagram is correct. Also when reading wire color codes, the base color is stated first and the 'tracer' (usually a solid colored line running the length of the wire's inulation) second. If you study the vehicle's wiring diagrams you will find there is significance to both the wire's base and tracer colors, which denote the circuit and nature of the signal carrried over it.
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Thanks Tim, I've waited sevral weeks for a replay, and thank you.  I can finnaly hook up my 1GMASS  ;D  ;D I didn't know you have to look at it as it enters the connector.  Yahoo!!!  I'll let you know what the out come.  Thanks again... BooM
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I may have stated this before however it is important enough to be repeated.DO NOT MODIFY THE UNMETERED AIR FLOW. I opened the  round openings into one large oval and now the motor runs very lean. So much so that I need to run my secondary injector as the primary. The motor even idled lean. The extra air that the 1 G mas supplies is plenty to increase performance. Removing the honeycomb on the unmetered side is enough to mod the mas. Feel free to email me if you have any questions. Mark
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When I browse the posts in the forum Ive always seen "1G MAS" mods and really didnt know what people were talking about and I didnt pay it much attention.. I knew that MAS stood for mass airflow sensor, but I didnt think it was a big deal.. but after reading all the posts I could find about it, Im going to call some junkyards tommorrow to see if I can find one..  I just hope I dont mess up my car in the process since Im no mechanic..  and I just gave away my 88 Accord so the Conquest is the daily driver.  

 

So if Ive read the posts right, if I get one of these puppies and install as is without messing around and modifiying it, I will be able to pull to the redline easily and not have the power drop off at 5K?  Also it will be much smoother through the rev range?  And there will be no downsides to doing this?  Wish me luck!

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  • 5 weeks later...
I thought the turbo MAS had a 7 pin connection. I just broke off the black part around the Conquest connection and it slid right in. I also enlarged the hole on the lid and reused the rubber/plastic gasket and everything works swell. I just took it for a test run and gained one pound of boost ;D
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  • 1 month later...

Folks:

Further to the Air Filter parts mentioned earlier, I just purchased from Advance (June, 2003 - for the 1st Generation Diamond Star Motors - Mass Air Sensor- '90 Eclipse, Talon and Laser Turbo) the K&N E2875 for $34.99, and a re-oil kit for $9.95 before sales tax. (total here in SC $47.18)

Just check carefully your on-line prices with shipping, OK?

Cheers, Andy

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  • 1 month later...

Greenstar (Steve) asked whether the wire colors were the same between 86 Starion MAS and 88/89 Starion MAS.    I have no idea whether an 1st Gen DSM MAS will work on using an 86 ECU.  

 

All I know is the wiring colors, I'll let you 86 owners figure out the rest...

 

 

85/86 MAS Connector (taken from control harness of 85/86 service manual)

[53|04]

[02|03]

53, 1.25 Black which is same as

----34, 1.25 Black, ECU-B, Ground

04, Green/Red, Air Flow Sensor<Signal>, ECU-A

02, White/Black, Air Flow Sensor<Signal>, ECU-A

03, 1.25 Red, Air Flow Sensor<Battery>, which is same as

----35, 1.25 Red, ECU-B, Control Relay <Computer/Battery>

 

85/86 Wiring Colors (taken from fold-out diagram of 85/86 service manual)

1.25 Black -- Ground

Green/Red -- Air Temp Sensor (+)

White/Black -- Air Flow Sensor Output

1.25 Red -- Battery

 

My feeble and poor attempt to understand 88 Conquest Service Manual

[GR2|R|WB]

[GR1|BW3|BW4]

Green/Red#2, -- ECU#10, Not Sure

1.25Red -- Battery

White/Black -- ECU#02, Not Sure

Green/Red#1 -- ECU#05, Not Sure

Black/White#3 -- ECU#16, Not Sure

0.85Black/White#4 -- ECU#04, Ground Not Sure

 

Boy, I hate reading this 88 Conquest manual -- I give up...

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  • 4 weeks later...
What is the best way to physically mount the 1GMAS so that is is not just resting on the inner fenderwell?  I have one all hooked up correctly, and just added Kelly's AHP, but the filter is just resting against the fenderwell.  What is the best way to mount it so that it is not just leaning up against anything??
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I have my MAS attached to a metal 3in tube with a silicone coupler. The metal 3in tube has a bracket welded to the side of it, which bolts to one of the holes that the cruise control mounts to. The bracket sits on top of a couple rubber washers, giving it a little space to move around when the engine shakes a little, shouldn't be too ridgid.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Um...No one seems to have mentioned that you can just hack the 1G MAS wire connection ON THE MAS so it will fit the wire connector FROM THE QUEST.  In other words, instead of having the 1g mas wire connector then soldering the wires to the quest wires, why can't you just put the quest wire connector INTO the 1G MAS?

 

Seems like all the wire connections are the same, but overall less work.  Am i missing something?

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No one has mentioned either that you can (whileyou are at the junk yard) snip off the harnes from a regular or turbo eclipse talon or what ever, go to radio shack buy buy some pins for computer cable ends solder them on the ends of the wire, stick them in your stock plug, then hack the one you sniped to fit down in there too. That way you save your stock harnes.

 

Also auto zone sells a pipe with a nipple and a port for both of our tubes that go into the accordian boot. It's made by spectre and is out on the floor with the rest of the "fast and the furious" stuff.

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Kougar, I mentioned that in one of my posts, don't know if anyone noticed. I just used a jewelers screwdriver to pry the plastic pins that hold the connectors inside the stock MAS plug, pulled out the wires,  then transferred them over to the 1G MAS plug, no cutting, no soldering. ;D
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You are replacing the stock sensor with a 1G sensor. The old one does not need to be good. In fact this is a cheap way easier to find alternative. Price new ones at Autozone, then compare to 50 bucks at a junk yard. I've found the best idea is to use the 1G lid and sensor, but cut the top 1/2 inch off the can and just use the clips that come with it to attach the filter. How you wire it is another story there are about 3 good ways to do it. They are all listed in this post I think.  
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