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TM

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Everything posted by TM

  1. I'm with BC_99. A little less BS would be appreciated. Let's grow up and use this site the way it was intended.
  2. I just spent the morning painstakingly locating the hole perfectly to install a set of hood struts (I didn't see any mention of the fact that 8" puts the hole exactly on a body seam, so it's edge first has to be ground down to avoid affecting the drilling of the hole, which is still difficult due to clearance between the drill and inner fender well needed to keep the hole centered vertically) only to discover what everyone else on this thread found: they can't be used with an '83 hood! I took modeling clay and discovered that the problem is that the front strut pivot hits the side vent's front fastener, and depression in the hood the vent sits in. This area can't be drilled out and likely wouldn't give much clearance or address the fastener problem. The front stud on the side vent might be shortened and a speed nut used to hold the front of the vent insert in place, but there wouldn't be any room left if it did. And I'm not for cobbling. I looked at moving the pivot forward an inch or so, but the shaft from the strut would still occupy this area, which must be pretty tight with the hood closed. I'm bummed and in no mood for this! These had been available for some time before I bought mine, and I hadn't seen anything but praise for them. And they do work nice; just can't close the hood! I thought most remaining StarQuest owners had '83 hoods, but either many don't, or they just slammed the hood when finished, and called it good. BTW: I tried to go to Tim's (MotoCam360's) web page, to see if this issue was addressed, but it's been down for awhile. If I don't see a response here, I'll call him. I'd hope he posts this on his ebay ad or elsewhere they are sold, if a workable arrangement cannot be found for this configuration. Too bad as it was a nice addition/package. -Tom
  3. I have an older set that doesn't have the socket (Allen) heads, and I don't know about torqueing the stud into the block with it. Did you get this from ARP? If you do this, it will pre-load the threads against the bottom of the hole in the block and increase the load on them when you torque the nuts on. The torque value on these studs (or bolts) is based upon stretching them the proper amount, and I think the preload will affect that. Since ARP is concerned with the lube used, I think they want the stud free to rotate so the stretch is between the threads of the stud. I've never heard of them backing out, so I wonder if they were properly torqued. (Including the individual loosening and re-torqueing after a full heat cycle, as prescribed.)
  4. I bought an '89 ETACS from Dan on Friday and it arrived on Monday. Good price and great delivery service! So fast one would think it came to Colorado from neighboring Wyoming, instead of Delaware!
  5. FYI: These (KYB) struts were originally gas charged (the oil in them was under pressure to avoid foaming under extreme conditions), which causes them to extend unless restrained. When they no longer do this, the gas has escaped. But this does not affect their functioning under normal conditions or indicate they are leaking (oil).
  6. Looking for a good MB 606956 ETACS unit. This is the metal box under the driver's seat, and this PN was used in StarQuests built after June of 1988.
  7. Hi. Wondering whether you solved this problem, because I believe I have the same. Was your problem constant, or intermittent? I was able to regain power by removing the 'Ign' fuseable link and cleaning the terminals, but the problem has returned, so I suspect the removal and reapplication of the power temporarily restored the system. I've come down to either the Starter Inhibitor Relay (A39X) or the ETACS. I may differ with Shelby if he is referring to this relay, as the schematic for the Starting Circuit (1, Pg 8-45 in the '89 Vol 2 SM) indicates that power from the Key Reminder provides the power to this relay to close the contacts to the starter solenoid. Thereby requiring a key in the ignition switch prior to engaging the starter. The ETACS comes into play because I noticed the shoulder belts began to close when the car resumed starting, and provides the SI relay's winding the ground required to operate, through a transistor.
  8. Interested in black cabin carpet if it is in excellent condition. Plz send pics and details, including year & any irregularities.
  9. TM

    Boinker Man

    I bought a pair of Autospecialty Power Stop drilled rotors and Axxis Metal Master brake pads from David at a good price, and with him picking up the shipping. But he sent them express, at much greater cost to himself. I'd happily o more biz with him. -Tom
  10. If it's only leaking internally, I'd try cleaning it with carb/injector cleaner. You can pulse the injector with 1.5V lantern battery. I have used WitchHunter Performance to clean and flow test StarQuest injectors, if you want to try that route. (He does have a nominal charge for injectors which are un-repairable.)
  11. Can you send my pics and part numbers for the brake rotors & pads?
  12. I'll take the Ex. Manny. PM sent.
  13. You're posting on the wrong board, but if you replace your leaking injector your problem should be solved.
  14. I have a power steering pressure line that someone on this site modified by replacing the rubber section with a braided Stainless Steel, connected to the pipe with fittings on both ends. I need the short section of pipe with a 90 degree bend & the fitting that connects to the pump, or an entire good line. Would consider an NOS OEM line, but I already have a couple of used ones (that leak) and don't enjoy changing these enough to take a chance on another. Thanks, Tom
  15. Sold if for the front windshield. Pm sent (can't text)
  16. PM sent (can't text) sold if for front windshield.
  17. I could put the seals to good use. PayPal? Total?
  18. TM

    help iac

    If others are like me, you're not getting any replies because we don't know what you need. There is an Idle Speed Control device on the throttle body, but I don't recall an iac?
  19. The late model OEMs are a vinyl substitute for leather(-naugahyde, which cracks and separates from the backing material). Early models were accordion molded rubber/vinyl. Best bet is to take your vinyl one to a leather shop and have them duplicate it in leather. The OEM design can also easily be modified for a short shifter. Some even embroider something on the side of it.
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