barbercb

What is the TQ spec for the oils squirters and the ballance shaft plate covers

That or 88 mph and 1.21 jigawatts which ever comes first.

I'm in Houston. I'll send you a PM with my number is you still need / want help.

- oh really......... I think you should make a TBI manifod as well. The MPI guys have an option. If this is going to be a pro-made manifold really all that would need to be done is create a better runner design. If he has access to a wetflow bench you could create a TBI manifold that has equal flow to each cylinder. If you did that it would give this car alot more life in a stock form. Right now TBI is only .5 seconds behind MPI, a better designed manifold would help close that gap.

Can you explain a little more? What would you be getting from Austrailia?

I'd be interested. Let me know what I need to do. Did the car have ABS or not? Does it make a difference? Also, do you know what kind of HP/TQ that is supposed to handle? Last, is it out of a 7MGE or a 5MGE

I am 100% in for a T5 adapter/housting. If the T56 does not need modding to the tunnel I'm down for that as well. The only other condition I have is that someone do the measurement on the shifter to make sure it will come through where it is supposed to and I can use the stock interior trim.

I'd take either one but, honestly if I gotta bang up the car I probably will never get around to it. T5 for me is a no brainer, T56..... if it doesnt fit, will probably never happen for me.

My feeling is that a adapter that can take a Ford T5 or T56 would be great. There are onebillion mustangs everywhere. Brian in the mustang world are people converting from the T5 to the T56? If so maybe make it for the T5 (lowest comon denominator) that way if someone wants to do a T56 they could just do whatever the Mustang guys are doing to switch. 2500 is 500 short of what I paid for the car I was finding T5s for 600 or so does that sound right? Brian if this comes out for the T5 and you have some laying around can you hook a brutha up? Second reason I'd lean toward a ford is b/c I've had a 5.0 and I can remember never having a problem. I think someone with T5 experiance should expand on shelby's coment on it's soft synchros. If there is a monster problem I'd hate to get right back into the same boat I'm in now. Meaning arem wrestling match with 2nd gear then listening to the tranny complain about loosing that fight by grinding into 3d. Last, someone needs to make sure a T5 will fit in there. Somone told me it will bolt right in ?

350 TQ yes waste of time. I'll rip that to shreds inside of 6months. Shelby, I think you are right, the Auto is the way to go for all out drag racing. I think people are afraid of the auto's and working on them in general etc. I know I am. I think we really need a trany that is capeable of laughing at 350TQ and being right at home with 450 or so.

Brian, with your mustang knowledge and all what would be the tranny to get? Bang for the buck wise?

Sounds like the perfect replacement for our cars then Shelby! I'd like to see  a T5 and T56 bolt pattern providing they will both bolt right in. Your gunna pay 1200 or more for a rebuild on our with gear hardening. Hopefully what you are making here will be around 2-300 bucks? Then you gotta find the tranny right? Brian, what mustangs have which tranny? Any better than others?

got mine too.

You can also wire a jumper between relays I think.

There might be another post but evidently we couldnt find it. It turned out to be real easy. 1. Pop in a lower temp sensor in the secondy fan side. Now it will come on at 190 or what ever. 2. (3d fan/ ,A/C fan, pusher fan, on the front side of radiator) , like you do with the TPS reset pull the rubber plug out of the back side of the connector(going to the fan mine was orange), use a small screw driver to release the lock and pull the spade connector out of th plug. There are only 2 wires you want to pull out the black one. Pull it through the rubber connector then push the rubber connector back up in the plug. 3. Splice into the Black/White wire (wire not grounded to the frame on the passenger side fan. Run a wire from the splice to the spade you just pulled out. I put on the female side of the spade and used some pliers to make sure it was tight then used a little solder. 4. Tape it all up and there you have it all 3 fans come on at 190 degrees.

Should or will?

I think it would be very helpful and beneficial to separate the cars from the rest of the stuff being sold. That way it's easy to keep up with cars that might be on page 3 or 4 in a day or 2 with all the other stuff. Maybe not clean them out as often as the other stuff.

Do we need to start calling them? There is no way this should take this long. I would like a daily or every other day update.

I've seen it done but can someone do a quick how to? What is involved? How to mount the radio?

Just a PSA here. I've been down this road, and wait for the coupler to melt or slip off starting the rubber spacer on it's merry journey picking up it's pals from the fins of your turbo and going south to your intercooler where the little pieces of aluminum and rubber go for the winter. Save the cash and atleast get the coupler from Kelly or one like his. You be glad you did. Also be carefull of the welds and any plastic contained on the pipe.

I have the PLX M-300 if anyone has any questions feel free to post here or PM me. I think it works very well and in my oppinion is THE reason my car is still in one piece.

I am very concerned myself as I have paid in full. I have heard nothing from forcefed4. Anyone who needs additional contact info for him. Business URL: http://www.just-performance.com Customer Service Email: pitchblack94@hotmail.com Customer Service Phone: 405-385-0009

Again, has anyone gotten theirs or heard from forcefed4?

I'd sure like to see an update on this. I'm getting worried.

Is there a way to tie it into the e-brake or something so if someone trys to move the car it turns off?