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My new MPI


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we started this intake a long time ago when we originally installed the TECII on this car because we knew as good as the stock intake MPI is, high 300s will be at its upper limit so we made this one to take it deep into the 400s and really spank those M3s with. it should work great in the 3000-7000 rpm range. it had been collecting dust for a while but its coming out of hibernation and gonna start breathing shortly.

 

the flange is 3/8". the plenum is 4"x4". the runners are 4" long and have a mini velocity stack lip at the mating point of the runnger and the plenum. I found some remote inline thermostat housing (from a mazda i think) that should work great with this.

 

what do you guys think?

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/1.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/2.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/3.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/4.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/5.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/6.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/imag...wmpi/flange.jpg

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im not so sure about it.  any reason for square?.  without radiused corners inside the plenum im thinking your gonna get some dead spots for air thats gonna cause turbulance off boost(which wont matter on the track all that much) and those runners are hella short. velocity stacks wont do all that much for you on boost either.  you should use some exhaust pipe insed teh square for a plenum then have the square be an outter chamber with a co2 recirc system to super cool the intake charge right before the head.  :)
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they have cool cars on that site, I like Bednad's setup. too bad they dont have any good pics of the engine bay.

 

BTW, that intake will not fit car unless they get rid of the factory brake booster and master cylinder.;D

it will also come very very close to hitting the inner fender with those long runners.

 

the plenum sidewalls don't really come into play. its mostly plenum volume and runner length that effect powerband. flow characteristics are more important that flow volume.

a tubular plenum is easier to make when casting an intake but a boxed plenum is much easier to work with when making and welding indivdual runners, and its also easier to tap for vacuum lines, make mounting locations for the fuel rail, etc.

 

the factory intake has ok runner and the plenum; WHAT plenum?

the magna intake is not bad but has runners up the wazzo and with a medium size plenum its better suited for low end power than top end. I will be running 8.5 compression and dont plan on reving any lower than 3000rpm at anytime during any kind of race.

 

if there is anything to learn from, here are a couple of examples.

here is the $3000 veilside intake for the supras:

http://www.horsepowerfreak.com/images/Products/VEIL_INTA_SUP4.jpg

and a very similar design. this one has two piece runners that joing using silicon couplers which will make working on the car a snap.

http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/ultimateintake.jpg

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I will sell it after I replace it but it wont be for another month or two.

 

oh, here is a similar setup to what i am doing. it may be a prototype of the EIP canon. i forgot where i got this picture.

its using the 5.0 throttle body. it doesnt seem too bad of a fit, i may just stay with the 5.0 myself.

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/nicempi.jpg

notice how the back is angled. if its not like that, it will not fit because of the brake booster.

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ive got a few ideas about building an intake also. looks easy enough.  would there be any downside to using steel rather than aluminum?  im set up for steel but i dont have any welding apparatus for aluminum. where do you get those bungs to fit the injectors, and how about the fuel rail once its all done?  can a fuel rail be custom made ?
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the injector bosses are just a piece of aluminum pipe. piece of cake to make. you can either get it with a hole in it or get a solid piece and just drill a hole. i think its 1/2"

 

fuel rail you can get as universal non drilled stock or you can have them drill it to your specs. pretty much all injector shops can do that for you.

 

steel is terrible for intake first its heavy. second, it heatsoaks like crazy. you would defintly need a 1/4" thick non heath-condictive spacer between the head and the intake manifold to prevent the heat from transfering over. it will be like using 5 or 6 layers of intake gaskets. it would also help to have a spacer between the throttlebody and the intake manifold.

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you can use steel just fine but i reccomend using very thin wall. steel is much easier to work with and if you use thin wall not much heavier but you will need a larger plate at the head as said.  you also have to be careful with rust on a steel intake, unless its stainless but thats $$$$$$$$$$

 

on the SDS site they have a how too on making intakes and they use exhaust tubing and powder coat them.  very simple design

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  • 4 weeks later...

the intake will be an almost idential copy of this venom so the square plenum will definetly not be an issue if they are using it too.

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/venomintake.jpg

 

here is the remote thermostat housing I found at the junkyard. i think it was from an older mazda 323 but i am not sure. its got plenty of sensor fittings.

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/7.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/8.jpg

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by the way, in case anyone is looking for a weldable thermostat housing for an intake, I saw one from the 87 honda prelude that will work great. its rather small and the flang is perfect for our intake.
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thanx for sharing Art.

good info.

 

I find good things but they are on the ground usually:)

I found a thermo that also had a cap on it but i am not sure what it is from.

 

would work good for the muscle car radiator mod some have done like Professor in the engine mod section.

 

Alan in portland

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  • 1 year later...

I remember someone was making and selling exhaust flanges. was it shelby?? maybe they can make intake ones also. this one was a one-of deal.

 

or you can cut it out of the stock intake.

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  • 4 months later...
shelby was selling the exhaust flanges. Nice pieces, I got 2. If he's not selling them he may know some one who is.

 

I got a couple of those flanges from him also. definetly nice.

 

managed to get a little work done on the intake. the main obsticle now is to figure out an easy and functional water outlet in the front big enough so that a radiator hose will slip over it.

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/9.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/10.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/mynewmpi/11.jpg

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those intakes for the 16 valve heads all have oval runners. so they are totally useless to covert over.

 

 

I am not a fan of the magna intake but one way to make a good intake out of it is to use the bottom portion of the magna, but instead of wasting the effort modifying the upper, just make a new plenum for it which would bolt right up to the bottom. it will shorten the runners and have a larger displacement plenum which would totally improve that inake and be fairly easy to do.

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how about this one for the 1st generation dms with direct port nitrous injection. now thats a intake.

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/bryans%20car/intake_nxplumbed.jpg

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/bryans%20car/evointake.jpg

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/bryans%20car/extrarail.jpg

 

just picture these being conquest intakes.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/bryans%20car/manifoldstack.jpg

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