Pop ups go haywire

[yellow89]

I'm currently having an issue with my pop ups going up and down. I disconnect the battery and reconnect the battery and they go up go down and then they get out of sequence as they stop. 

 

When you hit the switch they'll both come up go down go up go down and then they start getting out of sequence and you shut them off and they're all over the place as far as the position in which they're in. 

 

Any insight as to where to start with this issue? I have pulled the fusible link that seems to be working I've swapped relays those seem to be working. At a loss as far as what to troubleshoot next.

[admin_JAinsworth]

Checkt the ground wire attached to the passenger strut bodywork; the wire should be on the front side of the bodywork (near the airbox).
 The ground ought to be screwed to the engine-bay body work that surrounds the suspension upright.
 Jimmy

[yellow89]

I'll check that this evening. Was the weirdest thing when this happened. Everything was working fine. A buddy and I were fabbing up a battery hold down and had the battery out of the car. When we went to hook the battery back up the was a lot of clicking coming from where the relays were located and then all the sudden the pop ups started going up and down and were out of sequence. Got them to stop, but ever since then I can't get my pop ups to come up and stay up. They go into winking mode LoL. 

My fog lights quite working apparently as well. As I indicated in my initial post I have tried messing with the relays and fusible links but no luck. I'll check this ground and see if it worked itself loose somehow.

Thanks for your insite. I'll keep all posted on this endeavor.

[yellow89]

Don't see the ground wire but I know where it's supposed to go. Not sure what set of wires it ran with. I have removed some wiring but don't recall removing that one.

Everything worked fine until I disconnected the battery and reinstalled it.

Head lights, fog light don't work and pop ups still going nuts.

[Forklift]

27 minutes ago, yellow89 said:

Don't see the ground wire but I know where it's supposed to go. Not sure what set of wires it ran with. I have removed some wiring but don't recall removing that one.

Everything worked fine until I disconnected the battery and reinstalled it.

Head lights, fog light don't work and pop ups still going nuts.

you didn't disturb the fusible link box right by the battery right? The green link handles headlights and taillights (assuming that also covers the popup motors).

[TSITy]

Check the passing relay behind the glove box

[yellow89]

Forklift I didn't mess with the fusible link that runs the lights and tail lights.

[yellow89]

TSITy I was looking at this last night but I have no idea what I am looking at or for with the passing relay.

[admin_JAinsworth]

Here is a write-up from Mike_C that I saved on headlights:

First, check fuse #1 (top/left corner) since it feeds power to the headlight relay.  Make sure it's contacts are good too.  I think it feeds the dome light and interior lights too so if they work this probably isn't it.  Fuse 9 also gets involved so check it as well.  The headlight "fuse" is really a fusible link - look for a green link on the end of the fusible link box by the ignition coil.  The links are those little loops of wire for those that don't know - they are a special wire and their diameter determines the amp rating - don't replace them with generic wire!  Check the contacts on this link and look for any signs of burning/melting in the insulation.  
 
Relay A44X controls the headlamps themselves... if you remove the battery and the metal plate between it and the fender you'll see a pile of relays.  A44X is the 3rd relay back from the front of the car, on the row of relays closer to the engine.  It should be one of the smaller relays.  Swap it with the one next to it and see if your headlights come alive while your taillights crap out.
 
Try this: check your "flash to pass" function by pulling the stalk towards you with the headlights off.  The pop-ups should raise, the lights should go on for a moment, and a few seconds later the pop-ups should return closed.  The flash to pass-pass has its own relay that must be CLOSED for the normal headlights to work; if this relay fails relay A44X won't operate.  It's the relay mounted to the firewall by the brake master cylinder.  Unplug it and look for a direct short on the relay pins that line up with wiring harness wires blue+white and blue+yellow.
 
A relay is made of two parts: an electromagnet coil that pulls on a "wiper" arm for the switch.  When the relay clicks you know the electromagnet is moving the wiper a bit - and that the stuff controlling the relay is working... but is the wiper moving far enough to touch the other contacts?  Are the contacts clean and making good connections - if the relay switches high current (like headlight relays do) it's typical for some arcing to happen.  This slowly burns the contacts away and/or causes deposits which don't conduct very well.  That's why I suggested swapping with a similar relay as an easy test.

 

Trace the wires to the appropriate pins, then unplug the relay and use an ohmmeter to verify zero ohms between the two relay pins.  This tests two of the three contacts of the relay wiper part.

 

Before you spend money on the passing relay, try this:
unplug the relay.  Use a jumper wire to connect the blue+white to the blue+yellow harness wires.  This simulates the passing relay in it's normal position.  The headlights ought to work now if the passing relay was the bug.
 
 
Can you feel relay A44X click when the headlights are turned on/off?  That's one way to isolate the problem - we can cut the headlight circuit in half depending on your answer.  If it clicks, then the headlight switch, passing relay, fuses, etc. are working because the relay is getting its signal.  The problem is the fusible link, wiring to the headlamps, or their ground.  Look at the ground wire attached to the passenger strut bodywork; the wire should be on the front side of the bodywork (near the airbox).
 

Yes, the ground ought to be screwed to the engine-bay body work that surrounds the suspension upright.