The start of my ford 5.0 T5 swap and restoration

[GoldStar]

I'd kill to rebuild mine to that level for that much. Right now, with the paint/engine/trans work I'm planning on, I'm estimating around $15k, not including the cost of the car.

[BKB94]

I ended up ordering a small truck load of stereo equipment. Updating the mustang and truck systems and the quest needed something. The 5.0 is the true music so this is all that's going in the Quest. 

 I wanted keyless entry with a nice remote, apple car play, backup camera. Must say this is so far the sadist sounding system I have heard in a while. Hope sealing them off and adding door panels helps, I never add rear staging but this thing might need it. 

  

I'm prepping for paint but took it for one more drive, a bit cold and the heat wasn't helping. This might be the last update for a while. I think the next time you see this turd it will be done.

 

Still need to clean out my dads barn and build a paint booth. These cars have way to many parts to paint. Unfortunately my truck died and its pretty major, might be pulling the engine. This puts me in a jam since I need the truck to clean out the barn and take all my stuff over. 

Edited February 23, 2024 by BKB94

[BKB94]

Been busy but not on the quest. My uncle passed and his house is 3hrs away so every weekend has been cleaning out the house. The truck hates me and cracked a head and lost a caliper. Barn AC had a leak and I can't work in this heat, so brazed in some patches on the condenser and its back in action.

Started getting my dads barn cleaned up and the wiring failed in the ceiling and no light and most receptacle's dead. Waiting for the heat to calm down to clean, add more lighting, and build the paint booth.

 

Back to the build.

A/C

So I have been wanting to get the A/C charged and check one thing off my list. Pulled a vacuum and weighed in a charge, was using a Fox mustang as an idea how much it would take 28-32 OZ. I knew the AC worked before because I heard the clutch pulled in months ago when I had a nitrogen charge in it to leak check. But no matter what I couldn't get 12V from the HVAC control. Then you start doubting all your work so I had to beep everything out to confirm its correct. Once all was confirmed I replaced the HVAC box and again I heard the clutch kick in then release soon later. Check the voltage and I would get 3.5 VDC off wire 36 so I'm damaging the output of the HVAC control.  My mistake was that when you here AC clutch relay you would assume the relay is putting the load across the contacts with a 15amp fused supply. But I come to find that ford inside the CCRM is using a NC relay for WOT cut out. So I need to add a 15 amp fused power to a A/C relay probably behind the dash, many fused circuits are not being used do to the CCRM.

Pin 21 is 12V from HVAC through my aftermarket trinary switch and then into the CCRM.

Here is the Trinary switch, drier, CCRM. Still extremely happy with the clean set up, not that it was hard to make it nicer then the rats next that Mitsubishi made. But the best part is it works awesome, 92'F and humid with no doors or hatch and 36'F out the vents. Ended up dumping 2 pounds in it and my pressures are still low by 15psi but good enough for now. 

 

This junkyard 5.0

So after re-torquing the lower intake I had lots of weird issues and its getting worse. Its in a high idle and burns oil, worse the warmer it gets. So I'm pretty sure the lower intake needs thicker gaskets and the ports are open at the bottom of the ports sucking in oily vapor. Will probably address this before paint. 

[BKB94]

Mini update.

2 big mistakes were fixed recently. First car had a engine vibration right off idle that I could not figure out and a constant cylinder 6 contribution error. Decided to pull the trans to verify it had a 50oz flywheel, this was not as bad as I was anticipating. I installed the engine and trans together from underneath so at first I didn't even know if it was possible to pull just the trans. 

 

The new flywheel on the bottom is a 50oz and looks like every other 50oz flywheel I have ever seen, what was in the car I have no idea. It was not a 28oz flywheel ironically its marked 41 and with the drilling I could see that. No ford that I know of uses such a imbalance.

So new flywheel is in and its smoother but still does not seem 100% but then I remembered the transmission mount is solid chunk of rubber not like the supper soft OEM ones I'm used to. My 2nd issue was oil consumption and a vacuum leak that was causing high idle. Well this was me not knowing the aftermarket heads drill the rocker bolt hole straight thru the intake runner. Had to use sealant on the rocker studs to fix the oil and vacuum issue. Still beating on this thing around the village with no doors or hatch, its so much fun and feels like it has 400hp but it doesn't. 

Then I got distracted and made a very bad decision. 

[BKB94]

Man I keep getting distracted. Poor Mustang hasn't been touched in 20 years and I had that feeling that I need to really go over it.  On the lift I drained the oil and noticed long thin slivers of metal on the magnet and was glad I was pulling the engine for a health check. Have some new Maximum Motorsports suspension parts that have been is storage for years that's finally going on the car. Blew the car apart and painted and powdercoated everything underneath. Built a 1999 8.8 rear with 31 spline axles, T2 diff, 3.73 gears along with 14" rotors and the torque arm. The engine ate the cam gear for some unknown reason and the T-chain was very worn for the low mileage. Working with the vendor now as to why these custom pieces failed so early. I will be adding a new supercharger case that breathes a lot better  this should add about 30 hp and tq. That should put me around 430 rwhp and almost 500tq, that makes for a very fun car.