The start of my ford 5.0 T5 swap and restoration

[GoldStar]

I'd kill to rebuild mine to that level for that much. Right now, with the paint/engine/trans work I'm planning on, I'm estimating around $15k, not including the cost of the car.

[BKB94]

I ended up ordering a small truck load of stereo equipment. Updating the mustang and truck systems and the quest needed something. The 5.0 is the true music so this is all that's going in the Quest. 

 I wanted keyless entry with a nice remote, apple car play, backup camera. Must say this is so far the sadist sounding system I have heard in a while. Hope sealing them off and adding door panels helps, I never add rear staging but this thing might need it. 

  

I'm prepping for paint but took it for one more drive, a bit cold and the heat wasn't helping. This might be the last update for a while. I think the next time you see this turd it will be done.

 

Still need to clean out my dads barn and build a paint booth. These cars have way to many parts to paint. Unfortunately my truck died and its pretty major, might be pulling the engine. This puts me in a jam since I need the truck to clean out the barn and take all my stuff over. 

Edited February 23 by BKB94

[BKB94]

Been busy but not on the quest. My uncle passed and his house is 3hrs away so every weekend has been cleaning out the house. The truck hates me and cracked a head and lost a caliper. Barn AC had a leak and I can't work in this heat, so brazed in some patches on the condenser and its back in action.

Started getting my dads barn cleaned up and the wiring failed in the ceiling and no light and most receptacle's dead. Waiting for the heat to calm down to clean, add more lighting, and build the paint booth.

 

Back to the build.

A/C

So I have been wanting to get the A/C charged and check one thing off my list. Pulled a vacuum and weighed in a charge, was using a Fox mustang as an idea how much it would take 28-32 OZ. I knew the AC worked before because I heard the clutch pulled in months ago when I had a nitrogen charge in it to leak check. But no matter what I couldn't get 12V from the HVAC control. Then you start doubting all your work so I had to beep everything out to confirm its correct. Once all was confirmed I replaced the HVAC box and again I heard the clutch kick in then release soon later. Check the voltage and I would get 3.5 VDC off wire 36 so I'm damaging the output of the HVAC control.  My mistake was that when you here AC clutch relay you would assume the relay is putting the load across the contacts with a 15amp fused supply. But I come to find that ford inside the CCRM is using a NC relay for WOT cut out. So I need to add a 15 amp fused power to a A/C relay probably behind the dash, many fused circuits are not being used do to the CCRM.

Pin 21 is 12V from HVAC through my aftermarket trinary switch and then into the CCRM.

Here is the Trinary switch, drier, CCRM. Still extremely happy with the clean set up, not that it was hard to make it nicer then the rats next that Mitsubishi made. But the best part is it works awesome, 92'F and humid with no doors or hatch and 36'F out the vents. Ended up dumping 2 pounds in it and my pressures are still low by 15psi but good enough for now. 

 

This junkyard 5.0

So after re-torquing the lower intake I had lots of weird issues and its getting worse. Its in a high idle and burns oil, worse the warmer it gets. So I'm pretty sure the lower intake needs thicker gaskets and the ports are open at the bottom of the ports sucking in oily vapor. Will probably address this before paint.