importwarrior Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 would it be better to run the Eclipse therm sensor and ground to the chassis or just the stock sensor and ground through the radiator? conquest starion is a single prong Eclipse is a 2 prong grounding to chassis Closing Temperature [°C]: 80; 176 FOpening Temperature [°C]: 85; 185 FThread Size: 16x1.5 Part Number:MB356704 Alternate Part numbersMB845063MB356704B24427517375109 TsTKIStaying on the topic of cooling, I decided to re-wire my radiator. I discovered a dsm thermo-resistor thingy will thread into a stock starion radiator no problem. I like this idea much more than the oem because the dsm thermo thingy doesn't ground through the radiator itself, it has two pins. I think this will cause less electrolisys in the long run. Hopefully I'll get an aftermarket radiator before this thing is running but its not looking like that so this thing will have to do. Both fans turn on at the same time, and stay on until the temp has dropped 7 degrees F or so. Its a more advanced unit which is also slightly smaller so it will allow for more flow through the end tanks. I'm looking for a plug for the other side so I can remove the stocker one thats doing nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I think TsTKI had a good point when he talked about the grounding. Even ignoring the electrolysis effect, grounding the sensor directly to the chassis as opposed to through the radiator seems like a much more consistent and "safe" alternative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 The stock thermosensor grounds the relay through that one wire when it reaches temp. I suppose it'd work the same if the sensor was grounded with a wire rather than through the radiator but probably makes no difference. If you run an aluminum rad, aluminum is a crappy conductor so the ground wire would make more sense with that. I tapped into the thermosensor wires at the relays and ran two switches into the car so I can ground them manually and still have them work normally when the switch is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Closing Temperature [°C]: 80; 176 FOpening Temperature [°C]: 85; 185 F I think you have that backwards With the thermosensors grounding the coil of the relay there is very little current draw. Automotive relays are typically under 200mA, so electrolysis isn't really an issue there as long as you have a decent connection from the radiator to the body.Good info on other compatible sensors though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 I copied it right from rock auto . it could be wrong. I believe the circuit closes shutting off the fanThen opens when it reaches theturn on temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G54Bstore Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 (edited) I run my thermosensor in the intake to piss people off lolYES after the 160 thermostat zomg Lmafo never seen a issue with it . But it's wrong I know. works fine and running cool with the ac blasting in fl heat. I also got the 3 fan wire mod to all come on at once. they cut on and off pretty regularly in traffic. Edited June 15, 2015 by G54Bstore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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