leesfer Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Hey dude, it really looks like things are coming together and looking great. Out of curiousity what seats are you using? Using Corbeau FX1 Pros, tried to find a seat that was skinny enough to squeeze in there and these fit the bill pretty well and are nicely priced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 What car was the cage for? Or was it custom ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 What tubing is that cage made out of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 What tubing is that cage made out of? It's 1 3/4" DOM The cage is just for street use, not built to any particular race specifications Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 How hard is it to build a roll cage yourself? I have a place to get whatever quality tube I need for whatever type of racing I'd like to do. My biggest drive to build a rollcage to be honest is so that I can do door bars and then fabricate fiberglass doors for my car. I sure as hell am not driving around with fiberglass doors with no protection lol. I'm always dreaming lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 You'd probably definitely want some experience with changes before doing one, and have a tube bender which would be $1000 for a decent one with the dies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) Those ones are for rear battery to alternator, starter, MSD, and fuel pump They are all separate wires going to an electric cutoff switch rear battery swaps better if you just run a heavy gauge wire to the front . then get a positve teminal post to mount on yer fender then all of your other postives mount to it http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/250375_809009825787779_6469084168147556221_n.jpgthats how i did mine, imo the way you did yours is a hazard Edited May 4, 2015 by twojayzeestarion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoFab Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 rear battery swaps better if you just run a heavy gauge wire to the front . then get a positve teminal post to mount on yer fender then all of your other postives mount to it http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/250375_809009825787779_6469084168147556221_n.jpgthats how i did mine, imo the way you did yours is a hazard This is what I'm doing on my '86 build...I'm actually using heavy gauge welder's wire to run the battery relocate. It's about $8 a foot, but worth it in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 i used the biggest amp wire i could get at a audio store, but if i do it again im gonna use welders wire..much thicker insulation 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 rear battery swaps better if you just run a heavy gauge wire to the front . then get a positve teminal post to mount on yer fender then all of your other postives mount to it That's literally what I did. I have a 2ga wire going direct from the battery, through the cutoff switch, and to a terminal on the front right fender where everything else connects. The only reason the alternator is coming directly to the cutoff switch is because that is mandatory or else a cutoff wouldn't work, the engine would just continue running off the alternator. The way I have it uses the least number of wires going back as possible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 how hard will it be to remove the gauges after all is completed?just what if one failed? would it be a pain to remove the gauge?do you have an access door? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leesfer Posted May 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 how hard will it be to remove the gauges after all is completed?just what if one failed? would it be a pain to remove the gauge?do you have an access door? that panel pulls off, I've taken it off and on about a million times now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 oh good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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