xwingz2 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Bad fuel? Jet Valves? I just replaced the ignition wires and it was running fine. Now it is sputtering again. This comes and does with this car!!! New plugs with the wires. Here is a change I did not make. A new stereo was professionally installed. Part of that was to re-wire the hot lead from the battery. Whereas every positive battery cable I have ever seen is 8 gauge...this installer is using..maybe...14 gauge. Comments or suggstion? ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 check your vac advance? hook a clean vac line to your vac advance and suck on the hose.if it is like sucking on a straw then your vac advance is bad.if it holds suction then your vac advance is fine. gap your plugs to .032 to .028 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 That's right around where it starts making boost. So check for boost leaks and leaks between the mass air sensor and turbo. Also check FPR, injectors, vacuum advance. If you haven't replaced your injector clips yet you really should. They get corroded and can cause intermittent sputtering. When you replace them clean the terminals on the injectors too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 I'd say the most likely issue is a bad vac advance with those symptoms. The vac advance retards timing as you make boost, if it is bad your car will buck or sputter as it comes on boost. It's easy to check, just pull it off the distributor, push the plunger in and hold your finger over the vac port. The plunger should stay put until you pull your finger off, then pop back out. If the vac advance is good, I would make sure you check the wiring connections around the TB, especially the ISC motor connections and TPS connections. I ended up having a similar issue and broken/failing wiring at the TB was the reason. Another possibility is a bad secondary injector or bad wiring to the secondary injector. The secondary comes on around 3000rpm, if it's got a problem the motor will fall on it's face until the revs are below 3000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xwingz2 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Thanks to all for suggestions. I will start simple with vacuum advance line. I have owned this car since day one..so some things just seem too obvious! For example, I am not getting more than 3 # of boost at the gauge. The engine kicks in...when it does...and it is strong enough to stay with a Mustang...that kinda strong:) Where is the boost gauge line conected? Thnx again...ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xwingz2 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Thanks to all for suggestions. I will start simple with vacuum advance line. I have owned this car since day one..so some things just seem too obvious! For example, I am not getting more than 3 # of boost at the gauge. The engine kicks in...when it does...and it is strong enough to stay with a Mustang...that kinda strong:) Where is the boost gauge line conected? Thnx again...ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 (edited) no real boost vacuum hose on the stock boost gauge.it is a calculated estimate. electronic gauge. usually if the vac advance fails when hard on the gas you will feel a buck at about 2500 RPM's. that's because the suction slams the advance either full advance or slams backoff. the suction test will tell the tale. replace if like sucking on a straw no resistance. Edited August 4, 2014 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jellyneck Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 My car did something similar this morning, on the way into work. Boosted it in 3rd gear, once it got about to 2500 to 3000 rpms it bucked hard and I left off the gas. Didn't do it in 2nd though. I'm going to check everything you guys are talking about tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) If the vac advance isn't totally shot, it may not act up unless it's at certain temperatures, or it can depend on how hard you come up on boost. It's just a simple rubber diaphram inside, when the diaphram rips or develops a hole (hey, it's old rubber) is when it stops moving the timing lever inside the distrubutor accurately. I definitely wouldn't be boosting around until you solve the problem because you are probably detonating when you feel that bucking, the fuel mixture is igniting too early. Edited August 7, 2014 by Fuze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xwingz2 Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 To all...the distributor has vacuum. The plugs all show a consistent color: They are new with about 100 miles. Here is something the vacuum line at the blow off valve is not connected. Where does it connect or does it not?---------------------------------------------------------------------------Fuze...what is the TB and ISC and TBS connections??? Thx, ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Have a pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 (edited) To all...the distributor has vacuum. The plugs all show a consistent color: They are new with about 100 miles. Here is something the vacuum line at the blow off valve is not connected. Where does it connect or does it not?---------------------------------------------------------------------------Fuze...what is the TB and ISC and TBS connections??? Thx, ed What you want to check is the little flying saucer looking part that is on top of the distributor, that's the vac advance module. Pull it off, push the plunger, hold your finger over the vac port and release the plunger. It shouldn't move until you take your finger off the vac port. If it does, it's bad. This seems like the most likely problem. You shouldn't have any loose vac lines so if you have a blow off valve, put that vac line on it or plug the line. The The ISC and TPS connections are all at the TB (Throttle Body) mixer. Sometimes the wires here get brittle and break or corrode. That's what happened to me and I could only rev to about 3000 and the car would fall on it's face. Edited August 11, 2014 by Fuze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xwingz2 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Fuze...thank you. I will block of the blow off valve. Can you please include a PIX of ICS and TPS connections at the throttle body? Let me check them. Thanks again,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Fuze...thank you. I will block of the blow off valve. Can you please include a PIX of ICS and TPS connections at the throttle body? Let me check them. Thanks again,,, The two connectors that snap into the holders on the right side of the mixer body are the ISC/MPS (see the red taped wires) and the TPS connector usually snaps into that bracket on the bottom of the pic. I had fixed the worn out/broken wiring before this pic. Like I siad though, the vac advance seems the most likely problem part by your description of the problem. I wouldn't spend time on other areas until you check that first. http://distilleryimage11.ak.instagram.com/62ab4036bc2111e2a84922000a1f8c0f_7.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xwingz2 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 Fuze... Vacuum advance is good. Your advice to block off the blow off valve fixed it. I had a radio installed and the shop rewired the ignition side of the battery. He must have knocked off the vac hose. It I nice. Thank you for the pix. Are the connections on the ISC/MPS simple 'push on'??? Are you still using the original injectors? I was told there are Acura injector that update. Is this 'accurate'!! Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Fuze... Vacuum advance is good. Your advice to block off the blow off valve fixed it. I had a radio installed and the shop rewired the ignition side of the battery. He must have knocked off the vac hose. It I nice. Thank you for the pix. Are the connections on the ISC/MPS simple 'push on'??? Are you still using the original injectors? I was told there are Acura injector that update. Is this 'accurate'!! Thx OK so it was just a vac leak that was the problem. All the connectors snap together, they are all similar. I have a pair of Delphi injectors in there, no idea about Acura ones but I doubt any Acuras have injectors that flow 800-1100 cc's. The Delphi's are on eBay for our cars with a couple spacers and bolts to make them fit, sold by various people who put stickers on them and call them theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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