Convette Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 The doors weight roughly 60lbs if I remember correctly. Do NOT gut your doors unless you have nascar bars for you cage. Super dangerous. The rear hatch with the wing is well under 50lbs, and considering your still running the stock engine, you dont want to lose any weight in the rear. Relocate your battery if you haven't already. You really need to focus on the front half of the car. The dash stuff is super heavy, take off the lid from the glove box...its stupid. The complete wiring harness weights over 30lbs, but you need it for your stock engine. A car under 2600#s isnt impossible, but its not going to be a car you'll want to spend any amount of time in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Adams Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks John, I'm still new to TT's and HC's so I don't know what the average run time is, looking at the Chasing The Dragon videos it appears that the drivers are in the car for up to 20 minutes per heat. I didn't want to do it at first, but I think this car is going to be a trailer queen mostly. I do plan on getting ladder-bars or X-bars for the doors but for now will hold off as I don't want to worry about things like that until I'm actually competing. No sense in worrying about completing the cage if my performance and driving aren't up to spec yet. Here's where the car sits now . . .I haven't completely pulled the dash and components yet because I have no idea how I'll mount the gauges and other essential buttons for operation. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a63/nightmajik/The%20Epic%20Conquest/20140325_143803_zps16a30da4.jpghttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a63/nightmajik/The%20Epic%20Conquest/20140325_143944_zps6c6c6400.jpghttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a63/nightmajik/The%20Epic%20Conquest/20140325_144008_zpse32dddc3.jpg Short of making a lightweight dash, similar to how you've done it, I don't know what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Convert your fogs into driving lights. Then remove popup motors and light assy's. Turn the pass side popup into an air inlet.If you have a halo, why no door bars? Dump all that climate control. lexan lexan lexan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Go for light weight on your cage too.... chrommolly but you will have to get a special certificaiton since the bars are going to be much smaller then stock spec for what you want to run. Otherwise they just look at the bars and say to small not knowing they are chrommolly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 You can pull that little box in the trunk just behind that cross beam between the strut towers if you've deleted ABS, its the ABS G-meter. Also, behind where the glovebox used to be, there's a black box labeled 612, that's the AC evaporator, pull that out and replace it with a non-AC duct or make something quick if you're retaining heat. You can probably remove the hatch struts as well, just bring a piece of broom stick with you, lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Adams Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I'll take a look at that evap box and get rid of the g-meter. I have deleted the ABS so I guess that's next. Convert your fogs into driving lights. Then remove popup motors and light assy's. Turn the pass side popup into an air inlet.If you have a halo, why no door bars? Dump all that climate control. lexan lexan lexan Lexan will get ordered in that case. The cage was fabbed and didn't include door bars. Didn't really need em for Time Trials so I didn't bother, but I'm going to go ahead and get them welded in. My fabricator is a beast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stariondreams Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Good info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesey Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Looks like a racecar. Good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDemon Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 Anyone come up with new ideas to save more weight? Im curious about what i can get away with and what i wont be able to do to save as much weight as possible while still being streetable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPGorBOOST Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 There's always the added weight from the loose nut behind the steering wheel that you could remove. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDemon Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Im workin on that weight reduction mod already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Fidanza flywheel saves 20+ lbs of rotating mass nonetheless. Spool that sucka.Also kill the balance shafts.Shave down that crank to a knife-edge, save a few more lbs., ha P90X, gym membership, and running shoes to trim up self. Lose 20 lbs. of fat in 30 days by killing off dairy, empty carbs, and fruits: http://fourhourworkweek.com/2007/04/06/how-to-lose-20-lbs-of-fat-in-30-days-without-doing-any-exercise/Go faster AND beat up those ignorant street racers talking smack. In all seriousness GL w/ the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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