obsolete Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 ...how important are they? There was no gasket on my '87 manual trans pan, just black silicone RTV. When I put the pan back on, I used black RTV as well. Now I'm looking at the parts locator manual, and I see there should have been a gasket there. Makes me wonder if there's a gasket on my oil pan, or just RTV there too. Do these seal okay with just RTV? Is black "maximum oil resistance" the best, or is something like blue "gasket maker" better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 If i was you I would pull it back off and go buy gaskets for both I wouldn't mess around with rtv at all at. What happens if a little piece flakes off on that oil pan gasket? That could clog oil gallies and do some serious damage. Those are just my thoughts on the subject but I'm sure rtv would work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 RTV works as long as it's not gooped on there. I prefer to use black RTV. I think it's a little more oil resistant. Besides it blends in since it's black. Blue, red and orange would show on my motor and look weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 When I installed the Tuff-Pan on my tranny I used Loc-Tite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker at the seller's advice. It's been sealed tight for 2 years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 rtv will work fine for a trans pan gasket if it was alow'd to cure out a few minutes before you tighten'd the bolts down this alows the rtv to firm up a bit and give more crush resistance insureing a better seal i don't sugest you use ATV alone for an engine oil pan due to the amount of clearances at diff areas of the pan and block,, finger paint a coating on each side of the paper gasket befor assembly to help insure a good seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsolete Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks guys, very helpful. I'm killing leaks one at a time, but if the oil pan is still getting wet, I'll pull it and see if there's a real gasket in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 If you use a gasket on the oil pan it will squish out if not done properly. Coat the cork gasket with RTV then finger tight all the bolts. You just want them snug. Minimum 2 hours later after the RTV has set up you can tighten the bolts. If you don't wait then the RTV acts like a lube for the gasket. The cork will split in the middle and get spit out of the sealing area causing leaks. That's why I recommend just RTV. A small bead then tighten the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsolete Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Cool. I've done gaskets like that before on other cars...gotta wait for the RTV to set up. I've only given it 15 minutes or so on cork/paper gaskets, and that worked fine, but I'll wait longer if I end up redoing the oil pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 bigest reson for the oil pan to leakis prying one corner up to losen the pan when it was remove'd,,always make sure all corners are level or slightly high before installing the panrear corners are the most common leak points as the oil is push'd up there when excellerateing another thing, i'd sugest useing a 1/4" wratchet set up when tightening the pan bolts,,a good snug is all you need,, it may be a good idea to recheck them in a day or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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