BeachQuest Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 I know there is a posting somewhere dealing with this issue but I just couldnt find it. That being said I appologize in advance if I've duplicated a previous question. I am trying to delete factory airbox and put a direct air filter onto the turbo inlet. Obviously it didnt work out to good as I didnt take the proper steps. I need to know what to do with the bosst regulator, the air sensor and the vacuum lines from the factory airbox in order to make the vehicle run properly. Any help is appreciated. If you know of a link to where this question has already been asked and answered please post a reply with it. Thanks as always guys and remember, never grow out of your Hoonigan childishness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88-cnqst-tsi Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 (edited) use a gm maf with the maf translator, the filter willnt be super direct but it just takes up like 3 incheshttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=135203 Edited January 26, 2013 by 88-cnqst-tsi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Thanks 88. Great link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 This is the best way to run the stock mass air sensor with an open air filament. Some people say it's rubish but I never had a problem with it when I had one on my car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-intake-Adapter-Starion-Conquest-Turbo-2-6L-Cold-Filter-83-89-OEM-Mass-Meter-/261158941470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cce49331e&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 This is the best way to run the stock mass air sensor with an open air filament. Some people say it's rubish but I never had a problem with it when I had one on my car. http://www.ebay.com/...e49331e&vxp=mtr Thanks Txs. I think I will put it back stock for now. Return the current filter couplings etc... and will probably be refunded enough to purchase this filter which looks alot easier than the previous option of changing ECU wiring etc... It appears that with that filter system you could still eliminate the tacky a** corrugated piping from the factory. I do have another question though.... I had seen a previous post one of which I cannot find now to save my life. Is it beneficial to eliminate the lower and upper screens or, either/or scenario in the MAF? Thanks guys your the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 The round cardboard silencer can be removed but do not remove the honeycomb on the sensor inlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88-cnqst-tsi Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 The round cardboard silencer can be removed but do not remove the honeycomb on the sensor inlet.what is the cardboard silencer for and will anything change if its removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 It's between the metal lid and the sensor. Unscrewing the sensor from the lid gets you access to it. It's debatable whether it restricts flow or not. Common belief is that it does. Removing it may gain a little more flow. It's main purpose is to muffle the turbo intake so you don't hear it as much. You may hear a bit more air noise without it. Also turkey gobble (compressor surge) becomes more audible. The honeycomb smooths out the airflow and helps the meter read the incoming air. Removing that will make meter readings erratic and will ruin a good mass air sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/random%20parts/th_2013-01-27174704.jpghttp://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/random%20parts/th_2013-01-27174624.jpg Sheet metal cage plus a few feet of cardboard=restriction. factory air box delete comprised of a 1gmas, cosmo air can, ebay 90 degree alumum pipe, 2.25 inch coupler to turbo. 3 inch coupler to air can and two verocious motorsports 10mm adaptors for the oil sperator and evap can. http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/red%20conquest%20assorted%20pictures/th_2011-08-09175310.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 First of all UCW your underhood is impeccable. I love a neat low key but yet a bit colorful under hood set up. VERY nice job. Johnny, thanks for the info and I like your set up as well. Your car and my car are fairly similar. I am assuming that the right front airdam damage is pretty common on these babies as mine has the same damage and in the same spot. Your setup is exactly what I am looking to do. So, do you guys agree that the first two replies to this thread and that they are the only way to acheive that or do you have another way? I hate the look of the factory piping and air can. I would love to clean it up a bit but have tried it and it ran like poo. It suffered major stalling at boost onset which I am assuming that without the MAF in place the comp does not understand the variation in air intake? If you guys could help me by confirmaing or denying the previous posts about deleting the airbox I would forever be in your debt. Thanks again fellas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 (edited) First of all UCW your underhood is impeccable. I love a neat low key but yet a bit colorful under hood set up. VERY nice job. Johnny, thanks for the info and I like your set up as well. Your car and my car are fairly similar. I am assuming that the right front airdam damage is pretty common on these babies as mine has the same damage and in the same spot. Your setup is exactly what I am looking to do. So, do you guys agree that the first two replies to this thread and that they are the only way to acheive that or do you have another way? I hate the look of the factory piping and air can. I would love to clean it up a bit but have tried it and it ran like poo. It suffered major stalling at boost onset which I am assuming that without the MAF in place the comp does not understand the variation in air intake? If you guys could help me by confirmaing or denying the previous posts about deleting the airbox I would forever be in your debt. Thanks again fellas. Well yes if you ran without the mas air sensor it wont run good at all. That cosmo air car if for the sensor to be installed inside of. Another way to go is use the 1g eclipse air can lid and the 1geclipse k&n filter. I can confirm it makes the car louder but it sounds cool Edited January 29, 2013 by JohnnyWadd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thank you. Some late 86 cars can run without the mass. But they don't always run as well. They usually run too rich. All the other years can't run without a mass. At least not very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 (edited) Mine is running very rich atm. I put everything back stock and it still runs like poo. Checked vac lines, etc.. and everything looks good. I just wonder if I dont need to reset the ECU after trying to run it without the MAF? I put the car on the road about two months ago and gave it a tune up etc.. and it ran great. nice and strong for 180K. Chatter at high RPM's that I dont like but I'm thinking a proper valve lash may cure that.(It had been sitting garaged since 2004 ) Then it started hesitating at the onset of boost, then started getting a stutter at the top of boost with slight loss of power. I Tried switching to an open air filter inproperly and it started stalling completely at the onset of boost. I have changed everything back to factory and it continues to do the same thing. You guys think a ECU reset will fix that? Any opinions are appreciated. Edited January 30, 2013 by BeachQuest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 (edited) You guys think a ECU reset will fix that? Any opinions are appreciated. No. Check other stuff vacum advance and injectors clips and injectors. recheck tps voltage and sweep test. Bucking under boost is a common issue with injector clips or failing vac adcance unit. Also check fuel pressure under boost. Chatter at high RPM's that I dont like but I'm thinking a proper valve lash may cure that If not then do a balance shaft elimination or just do it now anyway. Edited January 30, 2013 by JohnnyWadd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 At the risk of sounding stupid where is the balance shaft on this car? it's an 88. I think you may be on to something with the VA. I was thinking maybe that from the begining because of the slight stutter under boost, then very noticeable stutter, then stall. Seems that it has progressively gotten worse over the las month. I'll check those things though thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 At the risk of sounding stupid where is the balance shaft on this car? it's an 88. I think you may be on to something with the VA. I was thinking maybe that from the begining because of the slight stutter under boost, then very noticeable stutter, then stall. Seems that it has progressively gotten worse over the las month. I'll check those things though thanks for the input. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=944 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Ok gents, a new revelation in the airbox saga. We thought we had it fixed and figured out something fairly bizarr in the process. When cold the car runs like a top. When warmed up it starts its crap. Cold = runs fine / warmed up = stalling and shuttering under boost. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Ok gents, a new revelation in the airbox saga. We thought we had it fixed and figured out something fairly bizarr in the process. When cold the car runs like a top. When warmed up it starts its crap. Cold = runs fine / warmed up = stalling and shuttering under boost. Any ideas? Have you run a set of error codes? It sounds to me, based upon the above, that your o2 sensor has given up the ghost along with possibly the va diaphragm starting to leak. For What It's Worth. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 No I havent. Thanks for the suggestion. I will put that on my tomorrow to do list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 this is what i did to my airbox http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Air%20Can/AirCan-3.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Air%20Can/AirCan-5.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Air%20Can/AirCan-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 This is just me - I'd cut out the air flow restrictor restrictor plate that MITSUBISHI built into the joint where the stock air intake volute mates to the air filter canister can to the ID of the volute. See if you get a performance gain by increasing that opening size by about 100% and sucking in relative cooler outside air in before you start cutting large holes into the air canister can and sucking hot summer less dense engine house air into da engine. Just a thought. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 I've never understood the whole drilling holes into the sides of the air filter can to get better airflow. The system is designed to draw in cooler air from the fender well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachQuest Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 I guess the argument would be flow vs air temp. Update on the Conquestador. Pulled fuel tank, cleaned it, ordered new screen from the forum along with injector clips which I havent installed yet, gutted the primary converter, deleted secondary, replaced new iridium plugs with NGK HP plugs, and deleted air tube silencer. I havent drove it any long distances yet but it seems to be running MUCH better and sounds terrific. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.