NudeLobster Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) dude you need a rebuild. That "perfectly" running engine is going to spin a bearing and when that happens you will lose oil pressure and all the rods are gonna heat up and need machining or replacing. The crank is going to scorch and need machining or replacing. The longer you wait the more it's going to embed in the cam journals which are just casting, not bearings so then the head would have to be replaced or have the journals cut for bearings... the cam may get embedded with shavings so then that's screwed. Oil cooler and lines need to be replaced, period. oil pump gears are going to get chewed/embedded by shavings and that's another $250. Rebuild. Rebuild at least one and get that in the car. Don't drive your current engine until it's replaced or rebuilt. drive the civic. -Justin Edited June 2, 2012 by NudeLobster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) Got my report. Not good. Found all metals, zinc, copper, aluminum, iron. also coolant.fml no civic, this is my only car right now and I drive 50 miles daily. looks like I need to start building up my spare engine fast and borrow my dad's car again. So checklist. I need-all new gaskets-piston rings-rod and crank bearings-seals, rear, front, what else?-headbolts-brass plugs? What else do I need besides engine work? Hot tanking? I guess I can do that myself to an extent, take to a car wash and hose it off. I need a new crank.What kind of work needs to be done to other parts like rods and pistons? What bolts do I NOT reuse, beside head bolts. Edited June 4, 2012 by Killtodie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Good thing you took that sample cause you would not believe any of us.... on the other hand that sux, But at least you know exactly what needs done. Good luck! One thing about it- do it right- do it once and then enjoy the ride. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) Results: KIRILL: You're looking for coolant in this oil and we found it. The potassium, silicon, and sodium showcoolant made up 1.60% of this sample. There was also an excessive amount of metal present. Aluminum,and chrome come from the pistons and cylinders. Iron is from steel, and copper is from brass/bronze. Tin istypically a bearing metal. Your mechanic might be able to pressure test the cooling system to help you findthe source of the coolant. Until you get a chance to look into it, keep oil changes shorter than this and yourcoolant level full. Caution! there is a chart I cant copy from the pdf file. Edited June 4, 2012 by Killtodie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I for one recommend the cheapest solution. seems to me a new set of bearings, a new headgasket and BSEK would give you enough time to build and get ready a replacement engine for when this one decides it's time to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) toady,,, bring it out if you need a hand i can assemble it for ya.... or tear it down and let ya know what you need.......just bring some cold ones....get all the seals and gaskets but DONT order bearings or freeze plugs, ring, anything that is sized just yet. Edited June 5, 2012 by wrngwae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Well I was just going to install the BSEK, get new gaskets and check out the rod bearings while I was there and buy a new set of bearings just to be ready.You think I can get away with that for now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 dont know until you see the cyl walls and crank.... metal can get into the oil rings and score the cyl walls... some times it can hone out sometimes not.......being you are still driving it,,,,,,you just dont know till you tear it down and see..... i know you want to do this fast but sometimes you just cant...... just depends on what kinda shape things are in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 So how should I proceed? Start assembling my spare block and swap it over or take mine apart when I do the BSEK and see what else is up? Mind you i need the car running on Monday and dont wanan waste money on seals/gaskets only to take it apart the next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 well, if your going to be building your spare motor while you run that one,,,,,, i would start by tearing down your spare. only makes since to me. what was wrong with that motor to make you pull it???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 My spare was torn down years ago. nothing in it is good. block needs machine work, will need oversized pistons. current pistons and crank and trashed. so need to look for a lot of spare parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippynerd Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 It sucks to put any new parts in that messed up motor, but I dont see you taking that motor out of the car, and getting it fixed up properly, then put back in the car, in one weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 ^^^x2 either you fix up your spare motor first or your car is down for a while its up to you. you cant have your cake and eat it too,,,,,, you just cant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I will be working on a spare. In the meantime: I spoke to the lady at the oil place and she said that due to the low content of lead its unlikley that my main bearings are being worn right now. The copper content is low, the iron most likley came from the chain or piston walls, piston rings are probably getting worn, hense the chromium content probably attributed to coolant leaking into the combustion chamber What I will do. Prep a new oil pan, get some baffles welded, clean up a new oil cover and such. Order a BSEK kit, new gaskets, seals, chain guides. install that, get the oil pan off, do an oil flush, inspect my bearings. Do this for now, if I can afford it, get new head bolts and that nice gasket and replace that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I will be working on a spare. In the meantime: I spoke to the lady at the oil place and she said that due to the low content of lead its unlikley that my main bearings are being worn right now. The copper content is low, the iron most likley came from the chain or piston walls, piston rings are probably getting worn, hense the chromium content probably attributed to coolant leaking into the combustion chamber What I will do. Prep a new oil pan, get some baffles welded, clean up a new oil cover and such. Order a BSEK kit, new gaskets, seals, chain guides. install that, get the oil pan off, do an oil flush, inspect my bearings. Do this for now, if I can afford it, get new head bolts and that nice gasket and replace that.ok, ill reply to the next thread in about 1 month, so ill be waiting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadrab Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) toady,,, bring it out if you need a hand i can assemble it for ya.... or tear it down and let ya know what you need.......just bring some cold ones....get all the seals and gaskets but DONT order bearings or freeze plugs, ring, anything that is sized just yet. Ummm....Dude...the man's offering to help for the cost of beers. Let him. Grab a case of chillys, load that old block into the back of the car and head his way. That way you can put together a comprehensive list of what you need to build an engine that won't crap out on you in 10,000 miles. There ain't no work worse than the work you have to do twice. Edited June 5, 2012 by dadrab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Before I can accept anyone's help, I need to gather parts, which is what I said I'll be doing. I need pistons, a new crank and either a new block or $200 into my existing spare block and go with hyperu's My pistons have cracked/broken ringlands, crank has inclusions, might be able to get grounded but that's $120 in labor. When I get my parts together I will gladly accept Tye's help. But right now I have nothing to work with other than the engine inside my car, which as I stated, I will install a BSEK kit into and to a partial teardown to get a full view of what's wrong. Edited June 5, 2012 by Killtodie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 To help me get rid of some of the Iron before I pull the pan, will it help if I attach a strong magnet to the oil pan and let it idle for a few/drive it around, would that help at all to collect the ferrous metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 DO not run that engine any more!!! You will just make more metal! I have seen guys toss rods thru the sides of semi blocks just to drive one into the garage to start teardown!!! Ist rule of thumb in the rebuild industry- If it comes in on a hook, you do NOT start it unless you are sure it's not having a bearing issue! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 DO not run that engine any more!!! You will just make more metal! I have seen guys toss rods thru the sides of semi blocks just to drive one into the garage to start teardown!!! Ist rule of thumb in the rebuild industry- If it comes in on a hook, you do NOT start it unless you are sure it's not having a bearing issue! Dadbut the lady on the phone told him its ok, she obviously knows more than us, she works the phone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 To help me get rid of some of the Iron before I pull the pan, will it help if I attach a strong magnet to the oil pan and let it idle for a few/drive it around, would that help at all to collect the ferrous metal? Big scrapyard magnet to pick up all the pieces of conn rod and crankshaft, cylinder block thats scattered on the road will work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 some people can listen and learn,,, some have to learn from experience...which one do you think this one will be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 my engine has anywhere between 1 to 6k miles on it since this metal issue occurred. I currently have no other car, I'm trying to get a hold of my dad's but this wont be till the weekend. The best I can do is cross my fingers and hope that it can hold out till then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippynerd Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 It sounds like you havnt spun any bearings yet, but my guess is that is in your near future, and when that happens, if it messes up the crank enough, you will need a new crank, and maybe a rod or 2, if things dont go horribly wrong, like dad mentioned.At that point, it may be cheaper to buy a new motor, than to repair that one. Here, I made a neat little website about my car, and a whole section on the engine, and the sweet custom rod bearings that came in the car. I did replace them, and flush the motor, but the crank had suffered too much damage, and spun a bearing. I ended up replacing that motor, it was done. anyway... heres the website, check out those rod bearings, they look like chrome plated potato chips.https://sites.google.com/site/1986starion/side1 And you thought you had some metal in your oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Thanks for the info. As I said before, I am looking to put togther a new engine. But I need a new block, crank, pistons and rods. When I find these I will start to put one together. I bought a new oil pan gasket and if it gets here this weekend I will take down my oil pan and inspect my rod bearings. This will let me know what condition my engine is in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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