justinfee101 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) Well.. im F'd. and so is my engine. or at least my rod bearings or lower end bearings are. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/FUCKKKKKKKKKK.jpg What causes this? I bought Clevite Bearings had them professionally installed and measured. 2 HOURS is the time on this engine! Crank was measured and micro polished too.. At least the labor on this will be free. and im personally going to hawk over this guy. Also, should a head gasket be stuck on the head when the engine has been run for a total of 2 hours? Or did he use a cheap gasket? I am getting arp studs so what head gasket should i get as i am going to be the one buying the parts for this now.. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/FUCKKKKKKKKKKk.jpg Edited April 26, 2012 by justinfee101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Id say take it too someone else and send that guy the bill! If he did it wrong the first time, you standing over him probably wont help any. Just my thoughts Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Is it just me, or does it look like rtv on the bottom of that head? I sure hope he would know better than to put any on a head gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) Nah its head gasket material.. and i cannot afford someone else. :/But i am thinking of doing it myself as i am moving into a bigger shop.. I do full restorations on European vehicles but i have not really dug this far into the engine..I can get all the tools that i need for measurements and i do have a good machinist i can go to that is pretty cheap..The cylinders look pretty clean and no scoring so i am hoping that it is only bearings but i am going to get better rings as i found out he used a brand i have never heard of.. DNJ? Im hoping that this is not the headgasket he used too..http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/fukkkkkk.jpghttp://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/fukkkkkkkkkkk.jpgwt.... is this^ cheap sh** http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/fukk.jpg Is there a measurement i can do in between the piston and cylinder wall i can do with a feeler gauge? Dang its 2am already!? i need sleep, this car is going to give me nightmares.. TIME FOR ENGINE REMOVAL TOMORROW~! Edited April 26, 2012 by justinfee101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 What I had said was "Take it too someone else and send the guy who did it originally the bill". Meaning its obvious that he doesn't know what he is doing and because he charged you X amount of money for whatever he did for you, he promised you a running engine. He clearly didn't give you that and therefore owe's you what you paid for. If that costs more to do it correctly then thats his issue. Of course that is assuming that the person you took this too is an actual garage (read business)... If its just some joe shmoe down the street then thats a different matter. Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 ^^^If you do that...clear it with him first. Just going and doing that, all he has to say is no, and then he won't honor his warranty, and there's nothing you can do about it. Unless the receipt says something about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badazzquest Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Did you make sure the oil cooler and all the lines are clear and clean before you installed this engine. They need to be cleaned now for sure. Maybe replace the rubber lines and have the oil cooler pro cleaned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Both Technology and I have use the machinist at the Carquest in Hopkins, and assembled the motor ourselves. He's good, but his turn around time isn't always the best though. Plus he's done a few G54B now with good results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 You'll have to mic the pistons and cylinders separately. Looks like a composite head gasket (cheap POS). You're better off with a Felpro, and regardless of the instructions you'll HAVE to retorque after a few heat/cool cycles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 You can't resurface that block yoursef and it needs it. It needs to be properly honed too. Won't matter what headgasket you used, it stuck because the surface was too rough. Looks like a quick wash tank job and spin something in the cylinders and have someone put the rod caps on backwards. Rusty head bolt holes isn't good and I'd not use those ARP studs if I were you if they were free. Wasted everyones time and your money. You got to start over. You can't just dump more parts in it, it was all began wrong and now its worse. You've not got to the bad part yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr-starion Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Those oil coolers and lines are recommended to be replaced even after a very good cleaning it ruined all my bearings crank cylinder walls head and cam, dont make the same mistake as i did cost me lots of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) I found a set of SS oil cooler lines on craigslist for 150 bucks so ill get those if i cannot find a better deal.. and i had the block decked and the head was a re-man as my other head was cracked and i needed a replacement. so dont see where there could be a surfacing problem the head surface was baby a** smooth as was the block. The block i used was sitting on a garage floor for about 2-3 years and had surface rust but i personally will tap all the bolt holes to make sure that i am able to torque them right.. I will be doing the work this time as i cannot get ahold of the guy who did all the work i am going to the shop today to see if he is working..I also have a machinist in woodbury that had very good turn around time and he is pretty cheap. Edited April 26, 2012 by justinfee101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 You can easily replace the rubber part of your cooler lines and clean the rest. under 20 bux. Dad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Ill look into that.. I need to save some money somewhere as i need better parts. thanks Dad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 Here is a link http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=125941 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 Alright.. I dismantled the engine completely last night and whats wrong makes me think how can i be so stupid!When i swapped the transmissions i did not get my slide hammer and pull this..http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment4.jpg So as punishment my engine did thisBearing material in panhttp://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment9.jpgMain/ Center bearinghttp://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment8-Copy.jpghttp://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment6.jpgCrank.. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment7-Copy.jpg I did not know that there was a difference between a manual crank and a automatichttp://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment3.jpgmy manual crank has pitting on the running surface..http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment2-Copy.jpg So now im off to the machinist to see what he can do about the crank and see how much my stupidity cost me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 Word of advice, recheck crankshaft end clearance just before starting of the engine. Dad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) Alright Dad, I placed an order from you today Crank was polish-able so no need for over sized bearings..Idk what head gasket the HD Headgasket is on TEP but i did order it from what i have heard it is a Fel-Pro Edited April 27, 2012 by justinfee101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 Ajusa perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 I heard that the tep metal shim headgasket was from ajusa but idk.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 should be the same gasket I carry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 The thrust surface on that crank is ate up. You'll need a DIFFERENT crank. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment7-Copy.jpg Your cylinder head, when you take the rocker assembly off you'll see that ground up iron chewed the journals in the cam all to hell and the head and likely the cam too are ruined. It went through the turbo and ate it up as well. These two links on my site would have saved your engine this issue. http://www.b2600turbo.com/flexplate.htmhttp://www.b2600turbo.com/thrust_bearings.htm That gasket used, if the surfaces would have been properly prepared for a turbo application it would have fallen off. Its not the first time and it won't be the last that bushing caused this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DurbenQuest Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 ahh, dude I'm sorry to see this. Btw the crank picture looks like there is a crack in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinfee101 Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Your right. The crank does need to be replaced.http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/2012-04-28_19-06-34_566.jpgBut it does look spiffy.http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/2012-04-28_19-05-58_254.jpgToo bad i wasted the 40 bucks on polishing the wrong crank.. this one needs to be polished too..http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/2012-04-28_19-06-59_433.jpgBut i do have a good thrust surface on this one.http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/2012-04-28_19-06-43_700.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e35/jfee101/get-attachment4.jpgPull that auto bushing and save it, they are getting hard to find.If your not going to run an auto I'm sure you can send it to a member who is for a back up.Just a suggestion.Good luck with the rest of your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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