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New guy in the Chi, just picked up an 86 Fatty


D-VO
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I'd have my buddy's body shop install it for sure. Usually they say that just to avoid people whining about it not fitting 100% perfectly. I'm on the fence about it.

 

If you can, source an OEM one even if it's off a parts car. OEM are urethane which is nice and flexible. The FRP ones on ebay do not flex as easily so they tend to crack from impacts more than an OEM one ;)

 

-Justin

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Sweet. The rubber hose going from the mass air sensor to the turbo should be inspected. It looks like you are missing a tube that goes into it, and air leaks cause problems, possibly bucking like you described.

 

But yeah, once you get it, either a smoke test or pressure test of the charge pipes will reveal any leaks. A compression test (with TB wide open) is a good idea.

 

Have fun!

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Sweet. The rubber hose going from the mass air sensor to the turbo should be inspected. It looks like you are missing a tube that goes into it, and air leaks cause problems, possibly bucking like you described.

 

But yeah, once you get it, either a smoke test or pressure test of the charge pipes will reveal any leaks. A compression test (with TB wide open) is a good idea.

 

Have fun!

 

It's an 86 brah.

 

-Robert

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A 3-piece air dam? Are you guys messing with me? I thought they were all the same amongst the fatties.

 

EDIT: answered my own question. heh. Sourcing an air dam for this car is going to be interesting.

Edited by D-VO
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not trying to thread jack but i have a mass with no other hoses or vac lines. but it is a square style plug not round????? not a 1G either???? what year is that one? Edited by wrngwae
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A 3-piece air dam? Are you guys messing with me? I thought they were all the same amongst the fatties.

 

EDIT: answered my own question. heh. Sourcing an air dam for this car is going to be interesting.

 

It originally came with a three piece air damn but any wide body air damn will work. Many like the look of the 88-89 air damn better.

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Well, she's home...

 

First impressions: I'm pretty sure there's an exhaust leak somewhere... I haven't gotten under the car yet but I'm 99% sure. Car tracks slightly to the right, and under braking pulls to the left. Steering wheel is slightly off so that leads me to believe that the issue is somewhere under the car. I think an alignment is in order. Definitely going to need a tune up, idle has room for improvement. Driveline mounts are a must, a couple times I had to try twice to get it into third. Oil pressure did in fact seem a bit low after the car warmed up, but the temp gauge stayed fine, as did the electrical system. Damn the A/C is cold. Clutch needs to go. There's a noise coming from behind the dash that isn't speed, A/C, rpm related, so I'm wondering what that could be at the moment... probably going to have to pull the dash anyways to do all the heater hoses.

 

Things on my "very soon" list:

 

Plugs/Wires

Clean/Check Distributor

Hunt for Exhaust Leak

Oil Change to something heavier.

Fix Squeaky Clutch Linkage.

Clean Lifters.

TPS reset.

 

Near Future:

 

Belts/Hoses

Timing Chain

Clutch

Driveline Mounts

 

Anything else I should be looking out for?

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Nice car! I have an '87 that has 'bucked' since it was new but in first gear only. The most impressive thing about the car, imo, is that it's been retrofitted for new non-freon A/C. How does that work? My A/C blows cool but not COLD and a buddy offered to change it over for cost of materials. Oh and what with the crooked Starion badge and the Conquest lenses, I'd say it's had rear end damage sometime in it's life. Otherwise it's VERY clean and nice for a car with nearly 100k on it. If you haven't found them yet, I'd recomend reading the threads about newbie owners. There are lots of peculiarities to starquests that are good to know.

 

Once again, good buy! We get over to Arlington Heights a couple of times a year. If you wanted to get together we could drive our 'quest too!! ;)

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Nice car! I have an '87 that has 'bucked' since it was new but in first gear only. The most impressive thing about the car, imo, is that it's been retrofitted for new non-freon A/C. How does that work? My A/C blows cool but not COLD and a buddy offered to change it over for cost of materials. Oh and what with the crooked Starion badge and the Conquest lenses, I'd say it's had rear end damage sometime in it's life. Otherwise it's VERY clean and nice for a car with nearly 100k on it. If you haven't found them yet, I'd recomend reading the threads about newbie owners. There are lots of peculiarities to starquests that are good to know.

 

Once again, good buy! We get over to Arlington Heights a couple of times a year. If you wanted to get together we could drive our 'quest too!! ;)

My god the A/C is magical... I was shivering on my way in to work this morning with the A/C on low. Also it's 100* here.

 

I'm running through as many newbie threads as I have time for, I understand well that before I mod anything on this car it needs to be at 100% health in stock trim.

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After a 75 minute commute home from work today in the heat with the A/C on the whole way... nothing to report. Temp gauge was rock solid even in the city. I was slightly concerned about driving it to work today what with the storms we've been having, but there was no better test than this one. After I do some tuning up she should be running like a champ.

 

Definitely want to tighten up the shifter and bleed bleed bleed the clutch though. Adding that to my list.

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My god the A/C is magical... I was shivering on my way in to work this morning with the A/C on low. Also it's 100* here.

 

I'm running through as many newbie threads as I have time for, I understand well that before I mod anything on this car it needs to be at 100% health in stock trim.

 

Excellent! That's how I remember the A/C working when mine was new!! I remember working on the lawn on an incredibly hot day with a T-shirt and cut-offs. My roomate came back with the quest and I got in to talk to him. In about 3-4 mins my feet and legs were COLD & I was glad to get OUT! :P

 

Yep, from what I understand it's best to get the car working perfectly before you mod it too, otherwise you'll be chasing problems forever. Good luck & have fun with it! ;)

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After bleeding your clutch, look into adjusting pedal throw by the threaded rod at the clutch master cylinder. Common wear point is the linkage up there.

 

-Robert

 

Yup, found that tip in one of the newbie threads about clutch freeplay on the u-shaped bracket and dowel rod. I have a workflow outlined that I'm gonna get to on Sunday so she's a lot more pleasant to drive.

 

I'm gonna swap the oil up to a 20W-40. I had low oil pressure on my DSM back in the day and just the oil swap gave me an extra 20lbs of pressure.

 

She got a little warm today going from stop sign to stop sign since the lights on my street are out. I shut the air off and got her home. Checked the coolant, all topped up and neon green (sweet) and checked the oil, just barely below the first notch on the dipstick and dark brown (no sign of coolant). I think it was just a hot and humid day to be running around in city traffic.

 

I really appreciate all the tips and tricks you guys are sharing. I had to run to the tire shop for my other car (Jeep) and when I dropped off and picked up the tires the techs were drooling over the car. Loving it so far.

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Is that clevis pin worn? The clutch pedal likes to get worn in that same area as well. If your's is worn, there is a way to fix it. I have a spare clutch pedal that's been drilled out, just needs a hinge bushing.

This could be the start of a long and beautiful friendship Kirill. I'm not sure if the clevis pin is worn or what, but it feels so soft. I'll hit you up once I know what my week looks like.

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