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holeysocks

By holeysocks,
in Just plain ol' B.S.

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holeysocks Newbie

holeysocks

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Well, I believe in sticking with 1 brand of oil and 1 brand of filter. I have ran Havoline in several Dirt track cars with no problem,however it is getting hard to find here. I also believe that the 3000 mile oil change was invented by the oil company's and the quick change places,,I have always changed at 5000 miles My Dad who drives everything until it drops changes at 5000. My 2008 Silverado recommends 7500 but I stick to the 5000

Also I was surprised that no one uses Penzoil, I will not use it!!! I thought it was more popular than that

 

As far as the synthetic oils, all I will say about that is, they have been using synthetic oils in Jet Engines since they were invented and if they are willing to put synthetic oil in an engine that cost several million dollars,,, there may be something to it?

Edited by holeysocks
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UlrichWolf Newbie

UlrichWolf

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Both of my cars use 5W-30 Castrol GTX, the Starion gets a Wix filter, and the Grand Marquis always gets a Motorcraft.

 

I use 5W-30 because oil pressure comes up significantly quicker on a cold start, and I have noticed no difference in pressure readings. Changed every 3000 miles, unless I am road tripping it, and then it will be changed immediately upon my return.

 

I can't quite compare with Ken's 406,000 miles, however, my new engine now has 30,000 miles on it, and is as perfect as the day Maxzillian and I dropped it in; the Grand Marquis is pushing 110K, and it too is perfectly fine.

 

Tim

Edited by UlrichWolf
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Skullzaflare Newbie

Skullzaflare

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Well, I believe in sticking with 1 brand of oil and 1 brand of filter. I have ran Havoline in several Dirt track cars with no problem,however it is getting hard to find here. I also believe that the 3000 mile oil change was invented by the oil company's and the quick change places,,I have always changed at 5000 miles My Dad who drives everything until it drops changes at 5000. My 2008 Silverado recommends 7500 but I stick to the 5000

Also I was surprised that no one uses Penzoil, I will not use it!!! I thought it was more popular than that

 

As far as the synthetic oils, all I will say about that is, they have been using synthetic oils in Jet Engines since they were invented and if they are willing to put synthetic oil in an engine that cost several million dollars,,, there may be something to it?

last time i used penzoil it only lasted about a week before it was literally like water and black

its possible it was a bad batch, but would you want to take the chance?

 

i like to use synthetics because it makes it easier for me to smell if theres gas in the oil, i have a slight oil leak at the rear of my oil pan from 1 stripped pan bolt, other than that, no leaks or burns

 

actually...what do i even have in it at the moment...i think i have 4qt quaker 10w40, and 1qt sheetz sae 30, oil level has yet to change since then.

(blew a ful quart out in 10 miles, valve cover gasket seated wrong after having it off, and covered EVERYTHING)

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Metric-man Newbie

Metric-man

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I don't want to quote anyone in this thread, but I have to make the point also because I see the debate / argument loom over engine oil threads.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

 

Most all oils have the petrolium components but the synthetic has been manipulated.

 

I believe we would have more crude oil use if it wasn't for the petrolium chemeist, or maybe we all be using banana oil instead.

 

Then we really could have a debate.

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tim si Newbie

tim si

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After building my 5.0 i used a cheap ol to break in.then went to castrol 20-50.after a couple more changes i decided to switch to mobil 1.after switching i noticed all kinds of leaks.i changed oil pan and valve cover gaskets and still leaked.after going back to castrol all the leaks stopped and finally the bottom of the car was clean again.the last time i changed my oil,i thought id try it again and sure enough the entire bottom of my car is soaked.i like mobil 1 but if it wont stay in mine its useless to me.some people have no trouble with it though.
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Blue Newbie

Blue

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Almost forgot this important piece of advice.

NEVER mix different grades of oil, it will only end in disaster causing an insane 102 page thread! :D

Colin B)

Oh shat... I done did somethin' bad then... :lol:

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Blue Newbie

Blue

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http://www.jrj-socrates.com/Cartoon%20Pics/Hanna%20Barbera/Scooby%20Doo/Scooby_307.gifRuh Roh!:D

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa367/RevRock13/bunny_pancake.jpg

SORRY! I had to...

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marso Newbie

marso

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I believe it doesn't really matter what name brand oil you use (not generic or gas station crap) although in my early days as a mechanic I did notice a lot of cars coming in with a waxy build up in the lifter valley that ran Quakerstate or Pennsoil. The most important thing is a good filter and regular oil changes. I change mine whenever it gets too dark to read the dipstick or 3k miles whichever comes first. Never had a problem. Regular oils have been around for years and many cars have gone well over 100k miles. I personally like Valvoline or Castrol 10-40 don't know why maybe because the bottles are pretty. I recently ran Mobile one and the engine developed leaks. Run what you want, do regular maintenance and you will be fine there really is no debate.

 

 

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TM Newbie

TM

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I run Valvoline Synthetic with K&N filters. Synthetic oils can handle more heat than petrolium based, which is important with turbochargers. This is why it is recommended to idle before shutting the engine off, and the use of timers which does this automatically. This issue is the heat from both exhaust and close bearing clearences in the turbo. If the oil is subjected to high heat it can 'coke' or revert to carbon, and become an abrasive. Water cooling the turbo as Mitsu & Chrysler do, minimizes this issue, but synthetic eliminates it. Asd for the filter, I use K&N because they can withstand the higher than usual oil pressure these engines are reported to run. I have never tried to measure it, but it is not uncommon to hear of a blown out filter on G54Bs.

 

As to weight, the Owner's Manuals recommend lighter weight oils like 10w30 or 5w20. 20w50 is high for modern engines, especially in cold weather. Remember the majority of engine wear occurs when starting the engine, until the oil is properly flowing. This and tighter bearing clearances are better served by lighter weight oils.

 

As to cost, Amsoil is expensive due to the pyramid marketing, but I used it way back in the 80s, before the major brands had syntehtic lines. I buy a 5 qt. jug 0f Valvoline Synpower or MaxLife Synpower at Walmart for $25; $20 on sale. I recently picked up a half dozen K&N filters from Norther Auto Parts (ebay) for $9.78 each, w/free S&H.

 

These are just my opinions, but I recently replaced the timing chains on my first Conquest which has over 200K miles, and even the balance shaft bearings are still in good shape. Very little sluge in the oil pan or head, and no issue with leaks. I change oil and filter every 3K, which I feel is important with whatever oil, to get rid of the polutants. -Tom

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Starwolf Newbie

Starwolf

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Well I broke my new engine in with quakerstate and have been running it pretty hard for about 45,000 miles now. No problems and definitely no waxy buildup?

 

I would like to switch to a synthetic but it just seems like everyone's opinion is different on the matter...running good so far so why switch?

 

Seems like a lot of people run castrol gtx and others mobil 1...

 

I just havent put much thought into switching but maybe i should...?

 

Also wix filter 4tw!

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Austin88ESiR Newbie

Austin88ESiR

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I stick with synthetic and is typically Mobile 1 10W30 at the nearest lube station when I am too lazy to do it myself. I use Royal Purple when I do it myself or Amzoil, both 20W50. I used to use OEM filters exclusively until my local dealer moved. I typically use Fram or Purolator depending on which is in stock at the time of purchase.

 

For the Branson-PF trip I used RP 20W50 and Fram.

Edited by Austin88ESiR
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Burton Newbie

Burton

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I like to use whatever has the NASCAR logo on it.

 

-Robert

 

 

I do that too. If I'm buying something that I don't really care about the brand, but I see a brand that is an "official sponsor" to sports or some other organization I like, then I usually will choose that brand.

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Komeuppance Newbie

Komeuppance

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I do that too. If I'm buying something that I don't really care about the brand, but I see a brand that is an "official sponsor" to sports or some other organization I like, then I usually will choose that brand.

 

Haha, I was being sarcastic. Mobil1 does have the Nascar logo on it though!!

 

-Robert

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