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Exhaust is frying my ingition wires


Killtodie
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All that Horsepower you say your running.....And your using 7MM Spark Plug wires :lol: :lol:

 

Bill

 

I hate doing this, but I don't just "say" things, I prove it:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/165371_610237294050_163906158_34739756_3843384_n.jpg

 

Anyway, Kirill, do you have an exhaust leak back there that is spraying soot on the wires/burning them somehow?

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Looks black back by #3 and 4 cylinder wires. more like the gasket is blown there just below the wires that hot exhaust gases will fry the wires.

 

Dad

 

I guess he could always use his nose to smell the exhaust gases coming out. But he would have to get pretty close to accomplish that :lol: JK.

 

Bill

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I hate doing this, but I don't just "say" things, I prove it:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/165371_610237294050_163906158_34739756_3843384_n.jpg

 

 

 

Hey, I can always use someone elses Dyno Sheets too :lol: :lol:

 

Bill

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Yes, I had loose exhaust studs and a cracked exhaust. Although the crack where near the front. Also, I didnt have the proper gasket, the one with that wall.

 

 

I got my manifold back today, I will get it installed tomorrow.

 

So the few things wrong probably added up to some burned wires. I stopped by Autozone and they had thermal wire sleeves but they were $14 for a pair, overpriced trash. I need to find them for a lot less

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None of those clamp things on your plug wires are metal are they? I hope not. You are trying to separate wires so they remain insolated and insulated not all joined by a metal bar clamp. That one in the front isn't metal or just painted silver? I'd not use that burnt wire. There are strands inside there you aren't seeing and just pulling on one to remove it not pulling the boost instead can damage them and that one is cooked. You had some boost-fuel-ignition issues that could be the cause of it.
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the silver one is metal. The black clamps are plastic.

 

Eitherway, the entire rail does not get hot. its attached to the valve cover and its the same heat as the valve cover. Its not where near as hot as the rising air from the manifold.

 

I'll find some cheap insulation tape, fix em up, install the correct gasket and see what happens then.

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I found some cheaper insulation on ebay, but they are all 6" and I dont know if they will fit, although they kinda look like those chinese finger traps so I think they will compress well.

 

I have some 300+ degree electric tape, I'll need to tape one of em up since its cracked down to the insulation. I'll see how the tape holds up, if it doesnt melt off, Im fine. if it does, i'll get the sleeves.

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I used fiberglass wrap and a turbo blanket...maybe $50 for the wrap and $100 for the turbo blanket.

http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo278/mistapickles/P1010150.jpg

I notice a clamp AWOL there, sir.

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Jegs.com or something. Ebay?

 

Bill, you eat some beef jerky tonight? you got beef, or just being a jerk? You're really trying to call BS on me cause I use stock replacement wires? Get a life.

 

Stock Spark Plug wires on a "supposed" 500 Horsepower engine is Wayyyyyyyyyy beyond my comprehension. If you want, I can post someone elses Dyno Sheets to prove i'm running 1000 horsepower :lol: :lol: :lol: . By the way, is your 500 horsepower Starquest in China??? If so, How much did it cost you to ship it there?? I know, so don't lie ;)

 

Bill

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personaly i'd check to see if the turbo is runing over heat'd , and whats realy going out the exh and out the turbo is FIRE , just like a blow torch

so any leak is like alowing flame to leak out , and to add to what they are saying about metal wire holders metal absorbs heat much more then plastic

also metal looms alow the spark to travel to ground and can cause low ign to the plug or a miss fire

 

also why can't oem plug wires work on an engine with 500 hp , spark out put voltage has a lot to do with spark plug gap , unless your runing a huge gap

i can't see any ing coil puting out 100 k+ volts , the spark would jump the gap long befor the voltage build up that high , the only other way to build real high voltage would be to run multi coils that alows 4 times the voltage build up time during each plug fireing,, but again it depends on the spark plug gap and wire resistance

 

even doing back to back 1/4 runs at 18psi i never saw my 20g red, in fact the engine temps did not increase more then 10 derees f ,and return'd to normal before the trip back the return road was over , of course the truck wasn't makeing any hp to speak of :)

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Dee metaaal baaah needz tew gooooo. :lol:

 

 

What? What metal Bar? The thing piece of aluminum that is the wire management rail? You really think that it heats up enough to damage the ignition cables? Seriously, are you mental?

 

 

I've seen Technology's car and I know what parts he got for his MPI build and he does have close to 500hp. Yes, he is in China for the time being but his car is in the states. His sig says right on it. "sitting in a barn"

 

You all need to stop talking crap on each other and stop with the theory crap too.

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What? What metal Bar? The thing piece of aluminum that is the wire management rail? You really think that it heats up enough to damage the ignition cables? Seriously, are you mental?

 

 

I've seen Technology's car and I know what parts he got for his MPI build and he does have close to 500hp. Yes, he is in China for the time being but his car is in the states. His sig says right on it. "sitting in a barn"

 

You all need to stop talking crap on each other and stop with the theory crap too.

No no no KTD, I'm not getting on your case. My bad man. I'm just going on the idea that the metal bars will conduct some signals from one wire to another. But then again, I MAY be wrong. Sorry for pissing you off, good sir.

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Oh. ok. Well, that metal bar upfront is an NKG brand one that came with the wires. I'm sure they thought of it or the wires have enough insulation.

Ah, well in that case, I don't see a problem. I was under the impression that it was an "aftermarket" thing. Maybe it says NGK in the pic and I can't see it. I'm not known for my sharp eyesight. :lol:

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Oh. ok. Well, that metal bar upfront is an NKG brand one that came with the wires. I'm sure they thought of it or the wires have enough insulation.

That IS what is being talked about. GET RID OF IT. That spark can jump across that bar to another plug and cause a MISFIRE. The wires go from the cap tower terminal to the plug electrode and at no point along the way do they ever make contact with anything that could possibly cause them to short meaning misfire. You ever see a plug wire jump the spark to another wire right beside of it? That's why you are to separate them, keep them from being tangled or touching anything that leads to a ground. This isn't something that will happen with most cars just some of them. Why do you think there were problems that led to warnings?

 

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/plugwiring02.jpg

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summit used to sell them, I have them on the camaro, but I don't see those exact ones on the site anymore.

They carry them in the catalog. I just got moar important thing to worry about right now. Like a new head, clutch, etc. :lol:

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I wrapped the most damaged wire in electric tape. I'll see how it holds up after a few miles.

hahaha, anyone familiar with electricity knows a wire carrying high amounts of electricity will not hold tape well. I wouldn't worry about the bar conducting electricity, as my full msd system on my camaro has no shorts on the same types of bars, they touch billet valve covers towards the rear of the motor and they inevitably touch each other as the run into the cap. Anyone who doubts this should just open their hood at night, if you see lightning in there, you have a short in your wiring.

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