Terry T. Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 im not sure what the normal temp. is for these cars on a hot day on the highway but mines running around 210 on my autometer gauge. maybe alittle more. but normal driving its around 190. The fans quit working so i wired them to a switch and thats about the only thing i can think of. I might just need a new radiator. it is 22 years old.....thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goddard Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 Yes, most likely a clogged radiator but have you also checked the condition of the thermostat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry T. Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 Yes, most likely a clogged radiator but have you also checked the condition of the thermostat? yea no thermostat. i opened it a second ago and nothings in there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 No t-stat is a problem. If your antifreeze doesn't stay in the block long enough it can't absord the heat like it should. This was probably an attempt to mask another problem though. You'll end up with bigger problems if you don't get this taken care of. Read through this.... http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067&sid=4cfd6773ebee8f83e095b496484b2af0 ...and stay aways from the WELLS switches.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry T. Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 No t-stat is a problem. If your antifreeze doesn't stay in the block long enough it can't absord the heat like it should. This was probably an attempt to mask another problem though. You'll end up with bigger problems if you don't get this taken care of. Read through this.... http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067&sid=4cfd6773ebee8f83e095b496484b2af0 ...and stay aways from the WELLS switches.. so basically i need a new radiator and a thermostat for it to cool down more. i read the info and it looks like my wiring is correct for my switch but i need a 52mm thermostat. and ebay has stock radiators for 100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry T. Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 what would be the best thermostat to use a 160 or 180? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 what would be the best thermostat to use a 160 or 180? 180 degree Stant. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 Does your car have an airdam and the plastic panel that is underneath it and the tin shield under the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry T. Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Does your car have an airdam and the plastic panel that is underneath it and the tin shield under the engine? no the airdams gone so nothings under neath it. would that be a problem for cooling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Climb under the front of the car, key on, pull the wires off of the sensors on the bottom of the radiator. Take an opened up paper clip and use it to ground the wires one at a time. If the fan on that side comes on you know the sensor's bad. That's where I'd start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 The air dam funnels the air into the center, the plastic air divertor keeps it from going down and under the car and the metal cover keeps it going out further back in the engine bay to further cool down those temps. under the hood. All those gone and the air just goes right under the car but the core will get some of it and they did dip the radiator support down in the front middle a little bit so the core would go down further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 im not sure what the normal temp. is for these cars on a hot day on the highway but mines running around 210 on my autometer gauge. maybe alittle more. but normal driving its around 190. The fans quit working so i wired them to a switch and thats about the only thing i can think of. I might just need a new radiator. it is 22 years old.....thanksMy radiator and fans are 23/24 yrs old and they work fine. It's all about the maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 (edited) If you are thinking that your radiator is clogged up with crud, I'd pull it and take it into a radiator shop and have it rodded out. Here in Georgia a radiator rod out costs about $50.00, which is a lot cheaper than buying a new radiator. In my opinion, the OEM radiator is "adequate" for removing the heat loads of the Starquest even in 115 deg outside temps, with the AC going full blast, in stop and go traffic - provided you have a clean, properly operating cooling system and you are not pushing 300 HP. My Mitsu OEM cooling system has handled these temp conditions more times than I can count and it does not go over the 1/2 mark on the dash temp guage - in fact it stays just slightly below the mid mark. Fan Motor not running - Another place to check is the where the radiator fan motor (black) ground wire is bolted the rad fan shroud brackets on the inboard top of the radiator. These are bolted ground connections and many times the ground surfaces are painted over/rusty, bolt and nut threads are rusty. And the actual bolt has a E embossed on the bolt head (MB239844) - its a special "tin" coated bolt & washer to prevent them from corroding. See FSM Page 7-19 & Parts Cat Page 7-22. If you don't have these bolts get 'em cuz you will have the best OEM ground connections possible that last over a long period of time. I'd also review the below link about the radiator/engine cooling system. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067&sid=01494b10a420a99ed1b8726890fb9f72 I'd use a Mitsu OEM thermostat (MD11 8040). Check FSM, page 7-13 for the correct orientation when installing the thermostat - cuz if it's installed incorrectly it will restrict the flow of coolant even if it's wide open. I'd also use a solution of 33 percent anti freeze and 67 percent DISTILLED WATER. This solution cools better than the 50/50 anti freeze you get premixed. Add a couple of tablespoons of dish washing liquid soap - which makes the coolant "wetter." You should also STRONGLY consider replacing all of the coolant hoses shown on FSM page 7-22 (they are all probably rotted). I would also take the heater pipe assembly in and have it rodded out along with the the radiator. Cuz if that pipe is getting plugged up you won't have a good flow of warm coolant going to the heater in the winter. Consider changing out with new the coolant supply lines to and from the turbo and make sure that the banjo bolts' holes are not crudded up. You can drill the banjo bolts coolant flow holes out with the proper sized drill bit. It may seen like a long shopping list to do, but once you are done, your OEM STOCK Lady will run at the temperatures she - especially the EFI system - was DESIGNED to (ie. MITSU OEM 190 DEG thermostat) in the hottest of weather and heat loads. For What It's Worth. KEN Edited April 15, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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