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battery drain

TexasQuest

By TexasQuest,
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TexasQuest Community Regular

TexasQuest

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I went to crank my car up this chilly morning and nothing. I check the battery on the car with a multimeter and it's showing 5 volts. The battery i not even a month old, battery cables are new and a new alternator. I've cleaned all the fusible links and checked all wires and nothing looks out of wack. What could be causing this? The starter and I think the distributor is original. I've had this problem ever since I got the car and I though I fixed it with the above repairs. I'm on my 4th battery in 5 years. :wacko:
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Vnomous1 Newbie

Vnomous1

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Well, I will tell you from experience that the starter can and will drain a battery. Never heard of a distributer causing the battery to drain. So if you suspect it is the original starter (that would be a stretch) I would consider replacing it. If all other connections, grounds and fusible links are good and no accessories such as an after market amp, radio, ect., are suspected (you should check anyway) I would lean toward the starter.

 

Also, ensure you are getting the correct battery...I know the replacment at such places like Advance Auto would have you put that narrow battery in, but I simply measured the battery box for height and width and went with the original "size" battery. Group 24-1, (I think) Silver or Gold series, with plenty of CCA's (Cold Cranking Amps) and the battery posts on the appropriate sides (positive nearest to the fuse box).

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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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Check to see if your Lady's alarm system is activated by looking at the dash indicator SECURITY light after going to lock , holding the outside door handle up and closing the door - after recharging the battery. If it does not go on, then the ETACS computer is toast - especially if it's an '87 Starquest.

 

Have you tried to jump start the car and hooked up the jumper wires wrong? If so, you have toasted ETACS.

 

If ETAC's is shot then it will constantly drain the battery even with the ignition switch OFF.

 

Ya gotta replace the ETAC computer.

 

For What It's Worth

 

KEN

Edited by Starfighterpilot
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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ETACs has been replaced and the green security light comes on when I lock the door and close it with the handle up. Stereo system is factory oem. The battery is a full size, biggest size I could fit in the tray.

 

OK, then it appears that you have an electrical short/ground somewhere in your Starquest draining the battery. Even though you are not arcing & sparking when you put on the battery cables onto the battery post's - read through the ENTIRE below link. It will give you a starting point and game plan to figure your electrical problem out.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=114139

 

Ya might want to take a look at the following posts

 

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=916&sid=cf4021f97009c29263594662b6c4569b

 

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1180

 

And check to see if the interior lights turn off after the delay period.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited by Starfighterpilot
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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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Could my main fusible link be bad even tho it looks fine? I have a feeling it's the original one on the car.

 

Not likely to cause your stated problem. But if in doubt - test it IAW the FSM.

 

It's time to start testing and then post your test results. The what if's don't cut it (you are wasting everyone's time). You need to start testing or find a knowledgible Starquester to help you test, and then provide the AS FOUND test info.

 

For ZWhat It's Worth.

 

KEN

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vbrad511 Newbie

vbrad511

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Disconnect your negative battery cable. Then wire a test light between that cable and the terminal. If the light glows you've got a drain. The brighter the light the more drain. From there pull your fuses and kinks one at a time and watch the light. When it goes out you've found your bad circuit. Also undo the link/line to the alternator. Sometimes the diodes in them go south and cause an internal short.
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Wolf87Conquest Newbie

Wolf87Conquest

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It's rare that you can determine an electrical part is "good" just by looking at it. Only exception I can think of is those circuit fuses in the fusebox (clear plastic cover) so you can see if a fuse has blown. Otherwise you must TEST the part to say it is good or not. A multimeter is a wise investment for all your electrical repair needs.

For a battery to drain down that far overnight, it's a heavy draw. I'd look to the major power draw items, starter, lights (include any aftermarket "driving" lights) circuits, fans, alternator etc. I've seen heat sinks (diodes and rectifiers) in alts go bad and ground to the armature or alt frame and do weird things to electrical systems.

I wouldn't think it would be a "shorting" fuse link...fuse links work as the name implies...fuses. Meant to "blow" with short circuits or overdraw in amps. Fuse links are a little different than "standard" fuses, they opperate as "slow blow" fuses and can take an overdraw for a short time, but will blow everytime there is a short.

Then again...another issue is the use of electrical tape on a car. This tape is for home use, not the kinds of things a car can dish out to tape. Temporary repair if you get stuck on the road, temporary deal to test the circuit or part...fine. Shrink wrap and solder are the best way to do automotive electrical repairs..crimp connectors a second choise.

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Indiana Newbie

Indiana

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Then that charge wire fuse link may be bad or half burnt out on the inside, the battery acid eats those strands and you can't see them. Replace it, maybe the alternator just isn't able to charge the battery back up and provide enough power to run the car while driving and its slowly draining the battery. If you just start the motor and take the battery cable off the motor shouldn't die. If you start turning on things with the rpms up around 2500 it should be able to stay running, headlights first, wipers, heater blower. If it dies with those things on and the engine at those rpms then the alternator isn't putting out enough amps and it may be from that weakened main fusible link. You can get those at an auto parts store, You may have to put one crimped end on as some already have one ring terminal on them that is large enough to fit the battery terminal.

 

If you're running around with everything turned on and your fans all running at the same time, the fog lights that are brighter and the headlights that are brighter and you're in town and not on the highway and have to big amp for your stereo you may not have enough amps to do all that even if it is working it only puts out 75amps.

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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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Here is a link below that was just recently posted about the same problem that you have. It also has replies that give other places in the Starquest to check for current draw when the ignition switch is off. It also has a way to determine which circuit is the culprit.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=113703&view=&hl=ETACS%20battery&fromsearch=1

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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marty Newbie

marty

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Check to see if your Lady's alarm system is activated by looking at the dash indicator SECURITY light after going to lock , holding the outside door handle up and closing the door - after recharging the battery. If it does not go on, then the ETACS computer is toast - especially if it's an '87 Starquest.

 

Have you tried to jump start the car and hooked up the jumper wires wrong? If so, you have toasted ETACS.

 

If ETAC's is shot then it will constantly drain the battery even with the ignition switch OFF.

 

Ya gotta replace the ETAC computer.

 

For What It's Worth

 

KEN

i have a similar (well, same) prob. on my 87. where/what is the ETACs? thx marty

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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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i have a similar (well, same) prob. on my 87. where/what is the ETACs? thx marty

 

It is located under the drivers seat.

 

ETACS stands for Electronics Time and Alarm Control System.

Look it up in the '88 FSM, page 8-257.

 

For What Its Worth.

 

KEN

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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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one last question- could i just unplug the etacs? other than the alarm system, what would be affected? thx again

 

I suggest that you down load the FSM and read the ETAC Chapter. That way you will get to learn something about your Starquest. Then you can make a smart intelligent decision. ;)

 

For What It's Worth

 

KEN

Edited by Starfighterpilot
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