NudeLobster Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 dude I can barely even read schematics, I couldn't imagine making one looks good!-Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 drawing up the schematics is the easy part. Physically routing the wiring is the battle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 18/8 , 18/6 , and 18/3 cables are a gift from above. It makes wiring neater and easier from the cabin to the engine bay or any where you have neatness in mind that you can think of. We use these for control wires on lift trucks, as long as the connections are nice and solid you'll never have a problem. I have 18/3 going from a fuse box to the 2 injector banks from Megasquirt along with a sluice of random other parts that need to be fed through the bulk head. I highly recommend these cables for clean and chemical resistant wiring http://www.discountwireandcable.com/images/51119.jpg http://www.sellntell.com/images/cable/18-6.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Here comes moar goodies!!! First of I'd like to thank J-Dub or as we call him JohnnyWadd for this Griffin radiator. Cooling duties have now been assessed with Flexalite Fans, and new sensors for this radiator http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/Griffin.jpg Heron also came through for me with a Billet Magna Fuel rail. -6AN in and out will let me utilize the SX performance RRFPR that I have laying around looking for a home. Not only that but the purchase comes with -6AN Push-lok fittings. It can't be any easier to plumb the fuel system http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/rail.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Good Stuff! I plan to run that fuel rail at some point so I'll be watching for issues. Just remember that with the 18/x cables you should take caution with what wires you run together. All sensors and constant low current voltages will be fine but ignition/tach, fuel injectors, coils should be run separate with shielded cable or you will get some noisy signals. Which may or may not be a problem. Ignore me if you've already taken that into account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Basically with the 18/X cables I'm running B+ or B- though them from a fuse box. There are no sensor signal wires in the 18/X loom. All wiring that is sensitve to inductive distortion is staying with the Megasquirt Harness. IMO one 18/X cable from a fuse box is cleaner and more resilient to stress and heat. The best part about the stuff I got my hands on is it's .004 ohms resistance per foot. If I wanted to get adventurous I could use Cannon style 32 pin connectors and fine 24ga wire... (which would be stupid) lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 (edited) I didn't really have much to do all weekend so I decided to mock up my Fuel setup on the kitchen table. Before I get rediculed... The point of the 2 feeds to the rail is to keep it evenly pressurized from both sides. I don't want any variations in pressure due to pressure drops along the injectors. I ran my DSM this way with a GT3576 and we exprimented with it. A wide band and 1 EGT thermocouple per exhaust runner showed damn near even EGT's on every cylinder and steady AFR at wot. That Talon (Rest in pieces) netted 500+ awhp. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/conquestfuelsystem.jpg I'm used to working with hydraulic lines so my weapons of choice are JIC fittings and Parker Push-lok hose. I seen no benefit in stainless braided line besides protection from chaffing and bling . I've got cloth braided kevlar reinforced -6,-8, and -10 hoses that will handle 3500psi if ever I needed that much 120 psi on my Pump dead headed is still not a concern on the parker hoses that have a working limit of 250psi. On a 1:1 ratio 70psi at WOT is just the beginning. Or... if I want to complicate it even more I can ditch the regulator/return and use the PWM feature of the Prodigy fuel pump with it's built in controller and run around returnless style Edited March 7, 2011 by Bag-O-Chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Good God Bags, this is starting to look better and better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thanks Blue! It's getting warmer and I've been way too busy at work lately but here is an update for those following along with the MPi build-up. Every thing fits!!! amazingly I can close the hood gotta love that sleeper style. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/bringthenoise.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/GT4088.jpg SMB's manifold tucks in quite nicely and the added bracing is more than enough. This is just the fitting stage. I still have to mock up the intercooler piping. Once every thing is set, it all comes apart and gets shipped out to powder coat and ceramic coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Mmmmmmm, I can't wait... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 i was gonna say, what happened to your special oil filter=Pdo I get to ride in this if I let you drive mine? seems fair=)lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 When that thing spools, I should be able to hear it over here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) yes Earl you can ride you mean the Forklift filters I'm using ? lol you should see the filters i have laying around in CAT boxes lol Andrew, we both know Air moving at mach 2 is a great noise Edited March 15, 2011 by Bag-O-Chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I can't wait for the ride=PAt this pace, you'll be done before me I was tryin to keep the filters on the DL, loljust keedin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I was over at Bag's place helping him put the dash back in, snapped a few pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Question time!1)Toadie, did you mix his oil properly? j/k man2)His speedometer only goes to... 85? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 That's his 83 gauge cluster I think=) And this is what he's been up to...wondered why he never calls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I've been too Flugin busy to really call any one, Thanks to toadie we got something done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I like that alternator bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 damn man, this thing is going to be sick. I hope you got a stock pile of trannys to blow through...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 (edited) damn man, this thing is going to be sick. I hope you got a stock pile of trannys to blow through...lol Phinko = Blown TransTechnology = Blown ClutchMe = Blown Trans and Clutch I've got a few lol But! IF ever I get around to it I'll be contacting Bill for a wide block to R154 or V160 conversion. My mad Lurking skills on the Supra Forums has paid off, the R154 can be built up with dog engagement gear sets. Couple that with the 4.62 diff gears from Starquestrecue (thanks btw!) I should be able to scoot pretty well. I also put some thought in to the wheel hop issue if I ever ran into it. I'll just run parallel (2) 70lb 12v sealed forklift batteries in the back (140lbs total) or (2)6v forklift batteries in series. One over each wheel. I'll have to build a brace for each battery in order for that to happen. In the end I might just integrate it into a triangulated strut bar I've been brewing up. The project is still in the ugly phases right now but once it's running and tuned, it's all coming apart again for coatings, blasting, shaving, re-upholstering, suspension, chassis strengthening and body work. Note* My frame rails are original and not rusted! just smashed up from the PO using them as jack points :mad: Edited May 10, 2011 by Bag-O-Chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 I like that alternator bracket. Thanks! it's just there for now until I can finish the real part. It's 2 hiem joints with a turn-buckle style adjustment. IMO it makes adjusting the slack a little bit easier without having to undo too many things. Just loosen a jam nut and adjust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 nice, curious how those 4.62's will feel behind the already nonexistent 1st gear? Lookin good regardless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Thanks! it's just there for now until I can finish the real part. It's 2 hiem joints with a turn-buckle style adjustment. IMO it makes adjusting the slack a little bit easier without having to undo too many things. Just loosen a jam nut and adjust. You should make a handful and sell 'em. The non-AC bracket from the pickups has no tension adjustment other than what you can pry off the block with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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