dmyers151 Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 I thought it was a great video, the end was hilarious, hence the meme thing I threw together. A very well deserved article. As an owner for almost 10 years now, I wish I could say I've had one of these cars apart as far as you've had with intent to rebuild. PS, put that picture in your sig, I dare ya, lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 haha dale i might do that.or make it my avatar or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yeah...I wasn't dogging on you at all....I love it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 i know haha. I figured you guys knew me well enough to know im not some silly hipster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Dude, Sig pic, now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquestguy Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I loved the ending of the video too! Thought to myself "he hit it on the nose". I've been working/driving starquests since I was 15. Which is coming up on 11 years!! At that time everybody was into Hondas, big body kits, and wings. Here I come in my Durban Maroon Conquest and everybody was like "what is that thing". Now people think they are "bad".... I've always thought they were "bad"!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Ah Tyler... that vid is great... And I'm with Dale, sig pic!!!1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 I will continue to update and do pet projects on this car, however, I have a new project. follow it here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=126885 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeroJr Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 The video was fun. Your car is awesome and a real inspiration to others (like me) who want to restore our cars to a nice level. I like how in the video you are talking about Scotch-briting each part and the bolts for the door bracket are shining away behind you - just a great level of detail! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Finally got around to something I've been meaning to do for a while. I swapped out the lifters on my car with a spare set of mechanical lifters I got with my other car. My reground cam is a 274h and has a pretty deteriorated base circle. This always led to a couple ticking hyd. lifters no matter now many times i bled them/ cleaned the assembly/ replaced the tappets. To make matters worse every time I pulled the valve cover I seemed to have at least 1 tappet that had come apart.. So i replaced with mechanical and got them adjusted up. Next time I adjust them I'll make a video on the procedure. Here are some pictures: http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7332/sdc11821b.jpg http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3885/sdc11823e.jpg http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/2424/sdc11824j.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C300 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 I prefer to install the engine n trans. together. done it both ways. one FYI, eather drain the tranny or plug up the tail shaft some how. I thought the trans was empty once, but there was still some in there at that angle and what a mess ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Did you make a mod to your exhaust system with a dump pipe routed back into the exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Did you make a mod to your exhaust system with a dump pipe routed back intothe exhaust?? what? the whole exhaust is custom... the wastegate is dumped seperately and isnt routed through the exhaust housing anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Where was that posted when the exhaust was being moded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Exhaust time: I've been wanting to do this for a while. So i finally sat down and did it. I built a complete system with a divorced downpipe and straight through muffler. The downpipe design is supposed to cut down the turbulence created by the wastegate opening. Short parts list: heated 0216 gauge wire (to wire it to the car after mounting it 36 inches downstream)3 3" mandrel bent u-bends from summit (summit brand)1 4' long 3" tube from summit (summit brand)1 3" straight through (round) Dynomax muffler1 1.5" mandrel J bend from summit (summit brand)custom flange that I drew on CAD and had my friend cut out for me at work2 rods of cold roll steel from home depot (for hangars)3 longer wastegate bolts2 3" ball flanges from summit (summit brand) oh yeah.... and 4 days worth of taking time to cut, weld, grind, reweld, refit and make sure its right. (Would have gone much easier if we had a lift) but it wouldn't have cut more than a day off the project. So here's a few pictures of the process. None of the tip just yet. But I just finished it about an hour ago. http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/3871/sdc11644.jpg http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8872/sdc11648i.jpg http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9744/sdc11649.jpg http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/5290/sdc11645n.jpg http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/5379/sdc11655o.jpg http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9495/sdc11656y.jpg http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8650/sdc11662r.jpg http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3706/sdc11679.jpg I used a coat hangar to make a template for the hangars, then duplicated the shape in cold roll steel using a torch and pipe to bend it http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7472/sdc11680g.jpg http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3998/sdc11681t.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/417/sdc11682r.jpg Last I did the divorced section of the downpipe: http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/5659/sdc11683.jpg http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7595/sdc11684v.jpg http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6908/sdc11686d.jpg I tack welded in a small plate to seal off the wastegate opening. Trust me, its reversible if need be.(I used the disk to protect the turbine wheel from any slag, which would imbalance the turbo) http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/2772/sdc11688t.jpg http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9497/sdc11689g.jpg Finally, I Painted up all the welds to protect from rust. The rest is aluminized so It should be fine. I kind of dig the "raw" look this gives it. http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/5343/sdc11690y.jpg Heres the clearance with the downpipe: http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/4206/sdc11691e.jpg Finally, I would like to say that I know a few of you might not agree with this exhaust design. But please don't bash me in this thread. Its a proven design used by many other communities and I invested a lot of time and effort into doing this. So far the results are speaking for themselves. It spools a LOT quicker, isn't much louder than my 20 year old muffler, and hasn't given me a problem yet. If it does I'll be sure to post about it and contribute the knowledge to the community. Thanks for reading! Can't wait to see everyone in Pigeon Forge next weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Thanks alot for the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) So as much as ive been working on starquests lately, i have been slightly neglecting my blue car. Pulled her in the garage a couple of days ago for some love. Mostly boring stuff, like fixing a couple blown out bulbs, cleaning the drivers side (up) window switch and the headlight switch. The problem i was having with the headlight switch was when i turned on the headlights they would work just fine, but if i turned them off, the lights would power down but the motors wouldnt pull the headlights down unless i lightly pushed in the headlight "on" switch. likewise for any other switches to command the motors up or down I had to lightly push in the headlight switch. so i rebuilt it and took some pictures so you guys can see how it works. Use a small screwdriver to pry back these small things http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/621/sdc12178.jpg This side controls the functionality of depressing the button and having the "off" switch reset it http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/601/sdc12184.jpg Here are the contacts that needed cleaned on my switch, one of the contacts was dirty and one of the springloaded plates was offset (which is why i had to hold pressure on the switch for it to contact. http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5866/sdc12186y.jpg This plate is what contacts those spring loaded triangle pieces and the backside of it is what you see before disassembly http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/6080/sdc12181g.jpg Edited May 23, 2012 by Frenchi934 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) The other thing ive done is the wideband install. I've had the wideband for a while but hadn't got around to installing it. There isn't really a good how to on the forums either so ill have a go at doing one. There are always multiple ways to do the job, but here's how I did it. First I pulled off the A-Piillar cover (because that is where I'm mounting the gauge) http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/9749/sdc12189f.jpg This stuff... http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/4919/sdc12187s.jpg I shoved the small harness down through the gap here: http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9605/sdc12193q.jpg to get it to come out down here: http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1683/sdc12194r.jpg As a side note, While i was in there I decided to fix my mechanical boost guage to dim with the rest of the lights, before the light came on and off with them, it just didnt dim. to do this, you run the positive wire from the light on the gauge to the green/ white wire and the negative (ground) to the black/yellow wire beside it) I also ran the gray wire from the AEM harness to this green/white wire for the instrument lighting. I could not find the dedicated instrument lighting ground (despite about half an hour of testing) to get it to dim with the lights, but it does come on and off with the lights so ill be happy with it for now) http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/6449/sdc12196m.jpg Edited May 23, 2012 by Frenchi934 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Then I tested several sources to find a switched 12v source and a constant 12v source. I found them both on one connector. http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3673/sdc12197r.jpg In the picture below. On the right, the red and black wire is the constant source and the blue/white wire on the left is the switched source. They correspond with the red and pink wire respectively from the AEM harness While your up here, you should go ahead and run the black wire from the AEM harness to a solid, clean chassis ground, I used the one on the beam for the steering column. http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4814/sdc12199o.jpg Since the AEM manual calls for the 12v sources to have a 5A fuse, I decided to add decdicated fuses. http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/5392/sdc12205k.jpg http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6587/sdc12198j.jpg made a bracket for the fuse box http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7953/sdc12201g.jpg http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6114/sdc12202b.jpg and put it up near the relays on the drivers side left kick panel for easy access. It mounts using the lower screw in the relay holder and tucks out of sight. http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9743/sdc12204x.jpg http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6439/sdc12207n.jpg I marked and installed the gauge pod with rivets, and also had to put a small notch on the lower end of the pillar cover to allow for clearance for the cables. It is barely noticable once installed. http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/5244/sdc12208s.jpg Then I tucked up all the wires underneath the drivers side dash and ziptied up the analog output wires so that they are there if i decide to run something with them later. I also ran the O2 sensor wire around to the pass side console and down through the shifter hole (the plug on this thing is very large, I didnt see another alternative without serious delay) http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7287/sdc12210h.jpg Then it was just add another bung and done! http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9789/sdc12211b.jpg http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8756/sdc12212q.jpg http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/2773/sdc12213f.jpg To conclude I'll say that I chose the analog AEM for several reasons. I don't intend to do any serious data logging for a while simply because I have another project. I value that once you set the adjustable LED light to ORANGE it matches the factory guages really well. And Im mostly using it for trouble shooting/ a little piece of mind after i turn the boost up to more than stock Next up: fog light mod, and a cheap boost controller Edited May 23, 2012 by Frenchi934 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Took the car for a drive this morning. As i suspected im just slightly rich, especially at WOT (drops just below 10.5:1). Fine for now but might try to tune it into the mid 11s later on. I believe my BOV is leaking a little at prolonged bouts of full boost as well, going to work on a recirculated system for that soon. Then i pulled the car back in and did the foglight mod. After doing it I pulled the battery and fixed a washer fluid leak (at the filler hose) and for grins, pulled the fuse on the foglights to see if it would disable the fog lights, it does, which is good to know. Also, strangely i was able to turn it back to a 20a fog light fuse, where before i was having to run a 30a, which is also good. (I have much larger fog light bulbs if you havent followed this whole thread)\ http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/1985/sdc12214n.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 (edited) I finished up today by recirculating my blow of valve. I did it by routing it into the hole designed for the maf lid bypass, then routing the maf lid bypass into the hole previously used by the charcoal canister. http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2440/sdc12215x.jpg http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/8602/sdc12216xa.jpg http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/7173/sdc12217p.jpg I put in a metal sleeve to be able to clamp down the new pipe.. http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6338/sdc12219j.jpg http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/20/sdc12220.jpg The hose I used to recirculate the BOV is sold at summit part number GTR-52023 http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/8375/sdc12221n.jpg Then it was rubbing up against the fan shroud so i put some rubber on the edge of it http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9/sdc12222nk.jpg Edited May 24, 2012 by Frenchi934 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 The recirculation works well. I believe my bov is leaking now though with the added vacuum on the back side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Nice work man. The rec should def help spool time between shifts. I wish I had a cool blue car with tan interior... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 I seem to be having some issue with it opening when not wanted, but its already crushed. after the car is warm it sometimes gets a slightly loping (slowly loping) idle. (as if the bov is creeping open and closed) and when i shift in low boost 1-5psi ish the rpms fall then hang for a moment before continuing to fall. Im not sure if this is just the way a re-circ setup will behave or if i need to do a little adjusting to my setup. The car is much quieter now with it re-circ'd. haha i'm thinking it was leaking more than i realized because the bov is completely silent now, but the wastegate noise is muffled now too.... Either way im investigating the issue and ill post what i find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Ive decided that the idle is likely due to having the battery unplugged and not resetting the ISC. and the hanging rpm issue at low boost is probably due to the valve just not opening enough (DSM guys who have crushed the valve have had this problem from 1-5 psi). But the good news is i have crushed it about as far as they do on average (until the vac nipple touches the second tier of the cap). Im going to reset the ISC/tps and then ill be ready for more boost it definitely does help the way the car runs between shifts. There is a noticeable difference in the butt dyno in the amount you're thrown forward during a shift on another note, i believe i have a short somewhere in the fog system. the fuse blows on random. sometimes it takes weeks or months, sometimes it blows on a short drive. Ill have to track it down and eliminate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.