DurbenQuest Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 im not to sure what kind of oil i should be running. i lost the guys number who i bought it from and i am coming up on the first oil change here soon. and i dont know what weight i should run. all of the mods are listed below. but i know i am going to run synthetic. any ideas?thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 synthetic is an excellent investment, Mobil 1 is the only true synthetic oil, but you must 'seat' the rings with standard petrolium oil before you switch to Mobil 1 Run the standard oil for about 10,000 miles, then make the switch, after that, change just the oil filter every 5000 mile and add a quart of mobil 1, after 20,000miles, change all 4 quarts and filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyberquest Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 i run 20w50 in the summer, 10w40 in the colder months. using sythetic every oil change isnt in my budget, when using conventional oil just be sure to change it on a regular basis. i try to do them every 2000 instead of 3000 just to keep things nice and clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 11, 2010 Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 Bill 20k sounds like a long time for the average turbo'd engine esp one like these that run so rich even when not haveing problems now an na engine i could see it doing 20k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted May 11, 2010 Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 Bill 20k sounds like a long time for the average turbo'd engine esp one like these that run so rich even when not haveing problems now an na engine i could see it doing 20k X2 I have gone 5k with Mobil1 right when it started to turn golden brownish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intense98rt Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Add some break in additive. I just ordered some redline for mine. I'm using 10w 40 conventional for first warm up, change, then again until 500. I might switch to 20 40 synthetic after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pure_insanity Posted May 16, 2010 Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 i disagree with breaking it in to 10k miles before adding synthetic. my mitsubishi spx pickup, i rebuilt the motor about 5 yrs ago. started it on regular oil and dumped it as a "wash out" oil at 50 miles. filled it back with mobil 1 and it ran on it untill about a year ago. i saw no adverse effects whatsoever to breaking in on synthetic. matter of fact i cannot see absolutely any difference in anything to suggest that its got synthetic in it. and the whole thing of you cant switch back or youll get oil leaks and blah blah blah...... that is total b.s. also. i switched the same truck back from synthetic to conventional oil about a year ago and i cant tell absolutely any difference. no oil leaks, no failures, nothing at all. actually the oil seems to be cleaner than the mobil when i change it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 im not to sure what kind of oil i should be running. i lost the guys number who i bought it from and i am coming up on the first oil change here soon. and i dont know what weight i should run. all of the mods are listed below. but i know i am going to run synthetic. any ideas?thanks I use Royal Purple, the weight's up to you but 10W30 is fine unless you're in the cold.. It's great oil, but I have used Castrol Syntec for a long time and also used Redline once. The good synthetics are better at high heat inside turbos. RP happens to be the first aircraft synthetic developed for auto.Don't put crap oil in a Starion, it gums up sooner at high temps; that's how oil feed lines clog up and turbos die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 i disagree with breaking it in to 10k miles before adding synthetic. my mitsubishi spx pickup, i rebuilt the motor about 5 yrs ago. started it on regular oil and dumped it as a "wash out" oil at 50 miles. filled it back with mobil 1 and it ran on it untill about a year ago. i saw no adverse effects whatsoever to breaking in on synthetic. matter of fact i cannot see absolutely any difference in anything to suggest that its got synthetic in it. and the whole thing of you cant switch back or youll get oil leaks and blah blah blah...... that is total b.s. also. i switched the same truck back from synthetic to conventional oil about a year ago and i cant tell absolutely any difference. no oil leaks, no failures, nothing at all. actually the oil seems to be cleaner than the mobil when i change it. switching from conventional to synthetic is when you find oil leaks and, are these engines really considered to have flat tappet cams? Because, they say that the new oils don't have the required additives for that anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pure_insanity Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 switching from conventional to synthetic is when you find oil leaks and, are these engines really considered to have flat tappet cams? Because, they say that the new oils don't have the required additives for that anymore. ive done that one too on several engines before i quit using synthetic, and never had a minutes trouble. i think its all a load of horseshit. and how is there an additive for a flat tappett cam as compared to the forces and pressures put on the engine in various places gonna be different. what makes a flat tappett any more force or pressure than other parts of the engine ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Talking about a flat tappet cam ver a roller cam. http://www.aera.org/eptb/TB2333R.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 ive done that one too on several engines before i quit using synthetic, and never had a minutes trouble. i think its all a load of horseshit. and how is there an additive for a flat tappett cam as compared to the forces and pressures put on the engine in various places gonna be different. what makes a flat tappett any more force or pressure than other parts of the engine ? rollers have a lot less friction on them, and, keep in mind, the cam is grinding against a piece of metal to compress a spring that has quite a bit of tension on it. Whereas a roller rolls instead of slides, therefore taking quite a bit of friction out of it. My question is, though, do our motors require the Zinc/phosphate additives? Or are they just fine on regular oil? And, I've seen a few cams wiped out due to this on some old V8s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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