MK1 Rear Camber Plate Problem

[psu_Crash]

So I finally got around to installing the rear pillow ball non-adjustable camber plates and I have an issue. The top nut will not thread on there very far. The pic shows it as far as is will go. I has maybe a half inch of thread holding it. If I take out the stock top hat then I have plenty of thread but nothing for the spring to rest against. The threads on the MK1 strut just don't seem long enough? Anyone else had this problem??

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5357/img0828h.jpg

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2654/img0829v.jpg

[Komeuppance]

What's the need for non adjustable rear camber plates if your car isn't lowered much?? Do those eibachs cause a lot of tire wear at that height??

 

I'm thinking those plates were designed for cars with sleeveover kits. Are you sure the spring is fully compressed when reinstalling??

 

-Robert

[NudeLobster]

wait, even if lowered what good does non adjustables do? whats the point of a non adjustable pillow ball? sorry I'm not giving much input to the thread, but I was very interested in getting an answer.

[psu_Crash]

Well you guys aren't much help! So they went in the car as you see them. I really don't see any other way for them to fit.

 

Robert no the Eibach's don't eat tires too bad, but my stock isolators were shot and I have these so why not use them. and yes I am 100% sure the spring is compressed enough. There was a good inch+ of space from the top hat to the spring.

 

Nude the non adjustable should still help out by allowing me to get a little better camber since the alignment shop couldn't get it to stock specs before. But that was also with severely sagging stock isolators. Putting these on raised the rear of my car about 1 1/2" After a few spirited rides toady I'll measure again to see how much difference they realy make.

[D_Venable]

1/2 of threads should be fine, that's not any less than a stock nut, it might not look right, but it should be ok as is.

 

and yeah, I think they were intended for use for the sleeveovers

 

as for the "non-adjustable", they still kinda are, you just clock them differently in the strut tower, so you technically have 3 camber settings

[psu_Crash]

1/2 of threads should be fine, that's not any less than a stock nut, it might not look right, but it should be ok as is.

 

and yeah, I think they were intended for use for the sleeveovers

 

as for the "non-adjustable", they still kinda are, you just clock them differently in the strut tower, so you technically have 3 camber settings

I know they are meant for cars much lower than mine but like you said I clocked them around to see what looked best.

 

The shade tree camber adjustment looks pretty good but I will have to get it on the rack again real soon.

[Tik]

If installing them raised the back of your car 1 1/2" then they are not right. camber kits should only relocate the stock mounting to raise or lower camber. they should maintain the same overall height of the strut assembly.

 

Id take em out. I do alignments for a living and a bit of negative camber isnt a big deal and can be compensated for by increasing toe in. do you know what the spec was on the camber?

[psu_Crash]

The main reason I ended up installing these is because my stock strut isolators are shot and made the rear sag about an inch compared to the front. I bought them a while back so instead of 130 for new isolators I figured I'd give it a shot. It's now just about a half inch higher in the rear and it's acceptable for now.

Iirc the rear was showing 5.4 negative camber before the plates.

[dmyers151]

MIke, you want about one and a half times the diameter of the threaded rod to be threaded into the nut. My fronts aren't as threaded as I'd like, but as long as you have about that much (1.5x diameter) you should be alright.

[psu_Crash]

That's the way I look at it too. It easily has that much so I shouls be fine. The stance may take some getting used to though. The rear is now clearly higher. I figure plenty of room for drag slicks

[jisleyjr]

So I finally got around to installing the rear pillow ball non-adjustable camber plates and I have an issue. The top nut will not thread on there very far. The pic shows it as far as is will go. I has maybe a half inch of thread holding it. If I take out the stock top hat then I have plenty of thread but nothing for the spring to rest against. The threads on the MK1 strut just don't seem long enough? Anyone else had this problem??

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5357/img0828h.jpg

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2654/img0829v.jpg

I just installed these a couple weeks ago too, i have the exact same problem.

 

Have you installed the struts in the car yet? When i did i had to make room in hole that this nut is accessible through. The nut is close enough to the edge that tightening it was pain. After a couple days it loosed up and i would hear a rattle when hitting bumps. The nut was loosening up, so i pulled the nut out and pound the material that was blocking me away from the threads, tightened it up more with loctight and it seems fine now, hasn't loosed up on me yet. If it gets worse i'll remove the bottom spacer/washer so i just have the top hat against the top hat.

[psu_Crash]

I have only drove the car maybe 30 miles with the plates in there but I will check that it out. I had the same issue with it against the side of the hole, I torqued the nut before I put the struts in.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll be sure to keep an eye on it.

 

If you take that spacer out the pillow ball won't be able to move around as easily as it should. I looked at that too.

[Fuze]

I have Cusco adjustable tops up front (standard MK1 non-pillow mounts rear) and the bolt looks similar, the bolt is actually threaded all the way inserted through the ball, it's also a little bit taller than the stock upper mount. Exact fit isn't guaranteed with stuff like that, adjustable suspension height is assumed for the best results.

 

I have the Ground Control coilover kit and ordered the front springs 2" shorter than the rears to accommodate the different mount heights. The small upper perches for the rears free float on the strut tube, exposing all the threads on the strut shaft. To go a step farther, it's easy to cut the lower perch off the front strut tubes and drop it an inch or two and re-weld it. OK that's getting a little extra.. sorry.

 

Anyway, With everything stock, your car can even ride higher after install. I'd stay with stock isolators until you're ready to get it the way you want it.

[psu_Crash]

Well I think the ride height looks good and I got it aligned. That also looks good with about a degree and a half negative camber. So I'm happy with it.