polarisman14 Posted September 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 (edited) Progress! Car is a rolling chassis again and I got my welded parts back...A few crappy cell phone pictures: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/0913001238.jpg http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/0914101947b.jpg http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/0914101947a.jpg These are ground control coilovers with Mookeeh plates on top, lowered as much as possible but it was just let down so it'll probably settle a bit. Since the springs are eibach's they will likely drop quite a bit as they are notoriously soft. With the smaller overall diameter of the wheel and tire combo I'm going with and another quarter or half-inch of drop the stance will be PERFECT. Edited September 15, 2010 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 ^^Yeah, the issue with mine isn't the bushings though, the bolt is fused to the hub and WILL NOT come off. I'm not too concerned about those 4 bushings as they looked to be in decent shape in the first place and are pretty thin--they don't allow much movement to begin with so swapping them won't make an earth-shattering difference. Front of the car is held up by the upper strut mounts, the rear is held up by these 4 bushings. They are mashed on one side so that's why they are sloppy but you can't see this until its all apart. Ya it sucks to get them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Update, the exhaust manifold, turbo, wg, DP, and exhaust are final installed with the gaskets and all. Having some issues getting the rear anti sway bars into the bushing holders but other than that things are going well. Starting to get into tying things up, just need to do a LOT of small stuff and get the wiring sorted out. Send some luck my way please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 ^^Got the rear anti-sway on there, along with the oil pan and oil return. I also figured out how I will run the oil feed. I'm super confused on the stainless fuel lines I've got so hopefully the PO can shed some light on it. I mocked up the charge piping post-welding and it fits perfectly. Any small issues with the fitment will be taken up by the slop with the couplers. Can't wait to keep working on it...It's finally looking like a complete car again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianpaul98 Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 (edited) actually 4.22 has proven it isn't "better" for drag either I'm just reading through this post and saw your comment. Just wondering who it was that PROVED this? I run a 4:22 gear in my drag car and please point out anyone else that has run an 11 sec 1/4 mile with a TBI setup / 19C turbo on a stock exhaust manifold with factory ECU including the ones who proved 4:22's aren't better for drag racing. Sounds like your project is really coming along. Keep us posted Edited September 28, 2010 by brianpaul98 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 I'm just reading through this post and saw your comment. Just wondering who it was that PROVED this? I run a 4:22 gear in my drag car and please point out anyone else that has run an 11 sec 1/4 mile with a TBI setup / 19C turbo on a stock exhaust manifold with factory ECU including the ones who proved 4:22's aren't better for drag racing. Here is a good read on gears. The poster never really finished the thread off the way he probably should have. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=81527&st=0&p=791061&fromsearch=1entry791061 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 ^^In the future I'll probably pull the rear end apart and freshen up all the seals, bearings, etc. and do the 4.22 swap as well. I don't think 350-400whp on the stock gearing ratio would be enough to make the car able to drift in third gear (although it may be if I swap to 7" rims for drifting in the rear) and that's my goal. Upping the final drive to a 4.22 is like adding another 10 or 15 percent of horsepower because of mechanical leverage which should make it all the much easier. Going back to the shop today, should be fabbing up the blockoff plate for the IM (just aluminum flashing and RTV most likely) and doing the final install of the IM. I think the fuel system is going to be a pain in the butt but I'll take a couple pictures of what I have today and contact the original owner of the parts for an explanation, lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Okay, So I got a bunch of unnecessary vacuum lines and wires tucked away and/or removed last night. I've got a question though... There's a canister that goes under the factory airbox. It's round, has 3 in and out ports, and what looks like foam on the bottom of it. It's labeled To AC, To Fuel Tank, and To Carb (blocked off). My AC is removed and the carb doesn't exist so I'm not worried about those--but does the fuel tank one need to be connected to anything? Is it supposed to see boost and vacuum or only vacuum? (There appears to be some sort of in-line check valve or perhaps small filter right on the canister that is white so I would think maybe it's a one-way valve?) If you can help me that'd be awesome, thanks. I also need to know where the coolant feed and return lines come from on the engine because I have one of them and can't find the other...I'd rather not have my initial startup turn into an initial cleanup because I forgot about the other one. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstar88 Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) Okay, So I got a bunch of unnecessary vacuum lines and wires tucked away and/or removed last night. I've got a question though... There's a canister that goes under the factory airbox. It's round, has 3 in and out ports, and what looks like foam on the bottom of it. It's labeled To AC, To Fuel Tank, and To Carb (blocked off). My AC is removed and the carb doesn't exist so I'm not worried about those--but does the fuel tank one need to be connected to anything? Is it supposed to see boost and vacuum or only vacuum? (There appears to be some sort of in-line check valve or perhaps small filter right on the canister that is white so I would think maybe it's a one-way valve?) that would be the Charcoal canister. It should only see vacuum because its job is to suck out unwanted fumes from the gas tank and keep it from pressurizing, and insert the fumes back into the intake system via the AHP on the turbo. I also need to know where the coolant feed and return lines come from on the engine because I have one of them and can't find the other...I'd rather not have my initial startup turn into an initial cleanup because I forgot about the other one. Thanks! coolant feed and return lines for your turbo orrr something els? for the turbo, there is a line that comes off of the thermostat housing that goes to one side of the turbo(the driver side, closer to the spark plugs in other words). And the other one should either come off of a port on the water pump. The water pump should have two small ports. and one bigger one for the radiator. One of those small ports is for the hard line that wraps around the engine and goes up to the manifold, the other port should be for the turbo line. If you only have one small port coming off of the water pump, Just drill and tap a hole in the neck and put a barbed fitting in there. Daniel Edited September 30, 2010 by dstar88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Thanks for the heads up. So should I have something with a one way check valve going into the IM from the fuel tank thing or what? Don't know what to do because I don't want it to siphon fuel from the tank through that using the vacuum source. Should the vacuum advance on the distributor be able to see boost and vacuum or just vacuum? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Well, I made some pretty solid progress today even though I didn't get as far as I wanted to. The charge piping from the turbo to the IC is all done along with the turbo inlet piping. It looks awesome. The charge piping from the IC to the TB is about halfway there, just waiting on finishing up the IM install to put that the rest of the way on. I figured out the fuel system with help from the previous owner and some good luck on the fittings. That's also just waiting on finishing the IM install. The IM is about 3/4 of the way sorted out with just tightening the lower bolts and installing the vacuum lines left. The coolant and oil drains are now blocked off and I found out that the OEM oil feed line will work perfectly but I need to remove the stock fitting and put one on that matches the threads on the turbo inlet. Then I'll be able to put that on there and it'll fit like stock. I also had a chance to test-fit the computer and make sure it'd clear the charge piping and everything else without a problem. It will, but the installation of this will definitely be a hassle with the charge piping and basically everything around it in the way. I'm about 10 hours away from the car running again, I think. Provided the tune that's on the MS is good enough to get the car to start, it shouldn't be an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 (edited) Heading back to the shop again tomorrow. The focus for the day is to get the fuel system tightened up (currently loosely installed) along with doing the same for the intake manifold and charge piping. I'll also be removing the RR brake caliper as it's totally frozen and I can get a reman'd caliper for 63.99. When I get the new caliper in I'll be doing stainless lines at all 4 corners and bleeding the system. It already has cross-drilled and slotted rotors all around so aside from more aggressive pads whenever they need to be changed next the braking system will be complete. I will also be measuring and marking the MS wiring harness to shorten it considerably (5' or so) next time I'm at work and finding a place to mount the fuel injection controller. I may just use some dual-sided body panel tape and stick it on to the factory ECU since that's a vegetable without anything plugged into it to begin with (now). At that point I'll have to put the dipstick and tube back in, give it new oil and filter, get the right oil inlet fitting, put that on, install all necessary vacuum lines, reinstall the plug wires and put the distributor to the correct timing and the car should run. After then I'll have to swap the cam, vac advance on the distributor, fenders, front lip, finish putting the rear brake system together, and repair the frame rails and a couple small holes in the floor boards and firewall. I also have to install the wideband O2 sensor and gauge, mechanical boost gauge, and E-boost2 electronic boost controller. Thennnn comes the body work. Edited October 5, 2010 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 I remember putting my thought process in a post. It helps a ton for when you forget something, re-read your post and say, "ah crap! Still have to do that one thing!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Made awesome progress today. Tied everything up I wanted to and then some. Definitely close to starting her up. Proof: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/sqengine.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) Made awesome progress today. Tied everything up I wanted to and then some. Definitely close to starting her up. Proof: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/sqengine.jpg That's the darn red cap that dented my hood The Griffin sits taller than stock radtr.. Everything looks awesome!! Take some more pics Edited October 6, 2010 by VICE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 ^^Yeah I asked the fiance for the camera at work but she left it at home. I'll take some more pics Friday. And yeah the radiator is stock, only difference is the cap I guess lol. We'll see how the stock cooling system works...I plan on running 70 percent water, 30 percent coolant and a bottle of water wetter. Thank god it all fit in there...So many things that could have made the install miserable (and did) are now tucked away. Got the harness marked up to shorten and stuff too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 The stock radiator is good for everything but road racing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 ^^Sounds good to me. Since it's easily accessible and I haven't topped off the coolant yet, any suggestions on what degree thermostat to use? Not sure what's in there now, most likely stock. Car goes under the knife yet again tomorrow, tying up as many loose ends as possible (vacuum lines, measuring for coolant lines and vacuum lines I don't have yet, double-checking stuff). I also have to remove the fenders and rocker panels and prepare the frame rails and floor pan for welding once my welding buddy shows up. That way I can put the new body panels on and then there'll be very few things left to do. The wiring harness is all marked up and ready for the new DB-37 connector and low-profile 90 degree backshell (otherwise the cable and connector wouldn't clear where I have it). Can't install that until next Monday or so at the earliest. I may also tackle the O2 sensor hookup as that's one of the only other things that is necessary to make the car run. Lists FTW...stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I never tried watter wetter lol sounds like an or gy but I have heard it is good stuff and it says runs up to 20% cooler I want to try it too. Currently running a 160 tstat and breakin her in and she has gotten to 180 190 the other day it was hot. Not sure if there is a bubble in there we tried bleeding the radiator warming up with heat on blast with cap off then top off with fluid and runningprobably 80 - 20 mix with yellow prestone.. Last night she was purring at 150 - 160 cruising at late/early hours off accel/deccel driving it sure is fun.. The speedo cable broke few days a go so I guesstimate around 200 miles on the engine with 20 - 50 VR1 Racing Oil and ZDDP addtves. ordered one from ROCKAUTO.com and just got it in, HAVE to make this clip on cable work with the threaded style Auto Meter gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 ^Sweet. Looks like you're getting all your bugs worked out, good deal. We got the frame rails repaired completely along with most of the undercar patch panels taken care of. We just need to do a few more small areas. I was really disappointed because I had an extremely difficult time getting the braking system back together on the car. Fortunately I finally did but I still have to push the LR caliper piston back in and put the brake pads on the rear. The stainless lines are on as well so I need to bleed the system and top off the fluid and that'll be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 You are using the little cube we were talking about earlier, aren't you? The rears have to be spun, sorry if that was repetitive, I just don't want to see you have more trouble than you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 ^^I need to purchase one of those, not sure what I'm really looking for or where to buy it. I've got a VIP near me so hopefully they'll have it. I was told I had to use the cube thing and turn it clockwise. I can turn it back and fourth a bit with some curved-jaw needlenose pliers but can't get it all the way back in. There's also a chance that the aftermarket duralast pads that I have need to be put in a bench vise and sanded down a bit to fit properly--I've had to do that before to motorcycle brake pads. Either way it's almost ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Getting the wiring harness cleaned up and finished tomorrow, and getting the car almost started on Friday. Here's a picture of the DB-37 connector with the 90 degree die-cast backshell on it: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324/polarisman14/StarQuest/1012101446a.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 In a couple more weeks I'll be calling the place I purchased the wheels from to check on their status--They're due to be completed right around now so I figure giving them a couple weeks to get shipped over here from good ole China is long enough. Otherwise it means they had some sort of manufacturing issue or something. In other news, I got a chance to work on the car for a few more hours yesterday. Didn't get too much done but every little bit helps. I got about half of the wiring taken care of, got the oil filter swapped, coolant hose installed and the extra blocked off, oil inlet line installed, and got most of the stuff under the car repaired. I bought some rubberized undercoating to take care of the newly replaced sections and it still needs some more TLC under there before I'm happy with it. Definitely getting there though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Quick update, over the course of the last week or two I was able to get the rest of the wiring necessary to get the car running done. I also got the exhaust stuff taken care of (putting the final exhaust gasket in and centering the exhaust system properly) and got it back on the lift again. This Friday a friend of mine with a welder will be helping me get the rest of the patch panels taken care of underneath the car. If he isn't available then I will be finishing up the braking system and getting everything tied together there and doing a once-over on the rear of the car. I've tried to start the car a couple times and unfortunately it isn't running. I am on to the troubleshooting portion of the show--I checked all of the connections on the relays to verify it was getting power where it should have and I checked for spark. I know there's fuel at least getting to the fuel rail because there's a small leak where the factory hard line meets up with the in-line filter I installed. Without unhooking something there's no way to verify what fuel pressure is in there. It could just be bad gas as it hasn't seen fresh gas since April and the fuel feed and return lines have been sitting unblocked since June or July--would it go bad that fast? I also realized that I forgot to put a bung on the charge piping for the IAT sensor so I am using a lathe I have access to in order to make an aluminum bung that can be tig'd on there. That wouldn't affect the car's ability to start, though, because the air moving through the charge piping and ambient air in the engine bay would be within a few degrees of one another on the driver's side front section of the engine where the IAT sensor is anyway. Just something that needs to be done before it'll be able to make any amount of boost correctly. Anyway, the build goes on. Just trying to get it running before winter but I'm not sure if that's an option...I'll keep trying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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