I These Plugs Fouled?

[Killtodie]

throttle rebuilt kit and spark plugs are on order Edited April 1, 2010 by Killtodie

[Killtodie]

Alright. If it doesnt rain this Saturday I will go ahead and reinstall the throttle body and get the car running again.

 

 

Need help with a few things.

 

 

There is still fuel and coolant sitting in the intake manifold and probably a lot of unburned fuel in the combustion champer.

How should I go by and getting that stuff out of there? I dont have an air compressor, I can soak up the stuff in the intake manifold, but dont got much to work with for the stuff inside the combustion champer, I got compressed air cans, that's about it.

 

Also, how do you adjust the TPS, is that just for idle speed?

[ucw458]

Drain the coolant, pull the ECI fuseable link next to the battery, since TB is off the injectors aren't connected atm, and pull the plugs out. Then crank the engine over for 30 seconds or so. Most of the crap in the intake and cylinders will be blown out the spark plug holes. Since you had water in there I reccomend you follow that up with someone else cranking while you spray a heavy for of WD40 into the intake. That will protect the metal surfaces like rings and cyl walls. It will smoke when you get it running again but the WD40 should burn off in a minute or 2.

[Killtodie]

Can you restate what you wrote about the injectors being off and the plugs out, I'm confused with that statement.

 

What is the purpose to unplugging the fuseable links?

[Shelby]

boy has this turn'd into a circus,, every one seems to forget about the pressure reg leaking,, if it does then yes the engine may start on it's own with no inj pulse

 

as for the houseing base gasket you can pick up one at any parts house,,that sells fel pro,,the gasket is avaliable seperate from the kit , but it's call'd a carb kit or carb base gasket , don't ask why i didn't write the programs for the stores

[mikec]

Clean out the cylinders by using the starter to turn the engine over while the fuel system is 100% disabled. That's what folks tried to tell you.

 

Unplugging the ECI fusible link will cut power to the ignition system, fuel system, and most importantly the fuel pump - so no matter where your fuel leak is coming from (stuck open injector(s) or a busted fuel pressure regulator) with the fuel pump not getting any electrical power it won't be shoving fuel through the leak into the engine.

 

Remove the spark plugs so

1: compression pressure won't develop.

2: give the gas/water in the cylinders some place to go. Otherwise, as the piston travels upwards on the compression stroke it would be trying to compress water - that aint gonna happen... so instead something in the engine busts. With the spark plugs removed, the water just shoots out the plug hole instead of causing "hydro lock" and engine damage.

 

Do the WD40 trick. Water sitting in cylinders leads to rust VERY quickly - and that rust in turn demolishes the piston rings. Basically water sitting in the cylinders is a fast way to make an engine require a full rebuild. Plus water or gas sitting in the cylinders will slowly leak past the piston rings and end up in the oil pan... water or gas in the oil is a fast way to destroy the engine bearings.

 

A "weak" ignition system won't lead to fouled plugs. Spark plug fouling comes from excessive gas in the air+fuel mix going to the cylinders. On a StarQuest there are several sources of excess gas:

* fuel injector stuck open. VERY COMMON.

 

* Fuel pressure regulator has failed internally; this lets gas go from the top of the regulator (where gas is supposed to be) to the bottom half (no gas should EVER be here) where it flows out the small "L" shaped vacuum hose that leads to the injection mixer (aka throttle body) assembly.

 

* Bad ECU that has a shorted output transistor - basically holding the injector ON full-time.

 

* Short in the wiring harness between either injector and ground... also turns the injector ON full-time.

 

* Incorrect airflow sensor or a hacked stock sensor. Anything that feeds bogus airflow information to the ECU will lead to incorrect air:fuel mixtures. The stock StarQuest airflow sensor has two "bypass" tubes next to the squarish sensor body. Both tubes should be totally open. Other Mitsu cars used similar - but not identical - sensor assemblies. Some of those assemblies have one or both bypass tubes plugged... that's how Mitsu calibrates/adjusts the airflow sensor to work with smaller (1.6liter) motors. Stick one of those in a StarQuest and it'll run mega-rich AND will be totally gutless at high power settings because the airflow sensor will limit the maximum airflow.

 

* Air leaks in ANY hose - the fat air pipes to/from the air filter box, to/from the turbo, to/from the intercooler, etc. Leaks in the vacuum hoses also screw up the air:fuel ratio. Blow-off valves are notorious for leaking. Any air that "leaks overboard" (i.e. is measured by the airflow sensor but escapes before it gets to the injection mixer assembly) has been counted by the airflow sensor & ECU and the ECU expects 100% of that air is going INTO the cylinders so it commands fuel to match. If air is instead going elsewhere... well, the ECU doesn't know that so you end up with way too much gas in the cylinders.

 

I've posted dozens of times on how to use a single jumper wire from the battery "+" post to a test terminal hanging from a black+white wire by the air filter canister. First, unplug the electrical connectors (aka "clips") from the two fuel injectors. Then run that jumper; you'll hear the fuel pump run. Keys in your pocket still. Make sure all fusible links are installed. Remove the metal pipe (the "over the valve cover pipe - aka OVCP) going into the injection mixer assembly. Eyeball inside there with a flashlight. See ANY gas spraying or dribbling? If so, wherever that gas is coming from is BAD/TRASH/JUNK. Unplug the "L" shaped hose on the fuel pressure regulator... any gas in there? If so, the fuel pressure regulator is BAD/TRASH/JUNK. No option - it MUST be replaced. Don't try plugging that "L" shaped hose either. That'll lead to detonation/knocking and a destroyed engine next time the engine sees boost pressure. No gas so far? Okay then, plug the injector clips back in. There should still be NO GAS. Now put the keys in and turn the ignition switch to ON. Don't try to start - just turn it to ON. Any gas now? If so, wiring short or ECU is fried.

 

simple.

 

mike c.

[Killtodie]

Thank you Mike, your write ups are priceless as always!

 

I think I should buy a new fuel pressure regulator just in case.

It looks like it will be raining Saturday, I should have my throttle body rebuilt in today from Dad's. I will at least do that and prep the intake manifold, needs alight sanding.

 

I'm still waiting for new o-rings from Trilogy Turbos anyway, I probably wont try starting the car till next weekend, always some sort of delay.

I guess I should probably also change the oil

I will try your trouble shooting steps to check the fuel injectors, do I have to properly put the TB in place for that or can I just hook up the fuel injectors to the clips and put them in a neck of a water bottle and watch that spray?

Edited April 2, 2010 by Killtodie

[Shelby]

injs need to be tie'd or wire'd in place if the houseing top is not bolt'd down

left alone they can blow out of the houseing and lead to gas all over the place ,, fuel inj'd from injs is very easy to ignite so make sure no spark of any kind is arround , a 2 ltr bottle with top cut off will work but some vapor will escape

[Killtodie]

Thanks, I will be careful with that, get some 2 liters, secure them in the neck, create some vent holes.

 

I just dont want to install the TB back in place without a gasket and have coolant leak all over or to have to clean it all again when I install it permanantly.

[fasteddy]

y'all have no idea how much fun this thread has been to read...

 

It's leakin' fuel from somewhere. Test it per Mike. Fix what leaks.

 

My best guess is that the fuel sitting over the winter varnished up. Try putting a drop of acetone (home depot paint dept) on the spray nozzle and let it sit for a while. Then put some down the supply end and let it sit for a while. Shake it all out, and reinstall. Replace the fuel filter, and drain and discard the gas in the tank. Dump some acetone in the tank and add at least 5gal of fuel.

[Killtodie]

So now you think that 2 month old gas is adding to the problem?

 

Today is a lame day, its cold and raining. I wont be able to drain the unburned fuel out the car, its wet, the battery in the conquest is dead, i would need to jump it, neighboors are parked next to it right now...

 

I still need a new fuel regulator, just bought one, and o-rings from trilogy turbo, just ordered.

 

 

Another question, do I have to drain the coolant? can I plug the coolant outlets near the TB mount so it doesnt gush out?

Edited April 3, 2010 by Killtodie