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natallica

Member Since 12 May 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 07:59 AM
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Topics I've Started

Chevelle @ Shiley Acres in WV

Yesterday, 09:15 PM

Can't wait...going to bed 'early' for an all day rock-show outside of Martinsburg WV.
Hope the other bands are worth a crap..if not...oh well Chevelle is there!

11:00am - Gates open
1:00 - Rebel Inc.
2:30 - Defending Cain
4:00 - Silvertung
5:30 - Chevelle

Woot! Hope the rain stays away!

-N8

Cause for Low Oil Pressure?

06 May 2013 - 06:20 AM

Over the weekend I installed my new M28 head and new head gasket, while I was in there I cleaned everything and reinstalled all new gaskets from the HG, up, resurfaced all of the manifolds and properly set my cam timing and she's at 10 degrees BTDC and she started right up and idled relatively smooth (TPS still needs readjusted, I just ran out of time) I was amazed I got the timing procedure right the first time (thanks to SQC's and PQ's threads)

I noticed before everything went south (Belt snapped and she overheated, cracking the head too) that I had low oil pressure, upon initial start-ups it was about 3/4 on the factory gauge, and once warm, during idle, it's reads almost at the bottom of the gauge.

My 12A fried a while back and I found a sliver of the rear oil seal in the pan, with only a few tiny metal shavings from the previous cam/head situation.

My question is, what should I look into as far as isolating a low oil pressure scenario? Could it be a clogged pressure regulator (is that the one on the filter housing?) or could it be something internally wrong with the oil pump? I really wasn't looking forward to removing the timing cover at this point (took 3 days to tear down and re-install the head and everything is all back together) but I need to figure out why the gauge is reading low.... lifters still ticking too (after running for about 10 minutes) which leads me to believe that I'm not getting the pressure needed on the top end. New timing components were installed about 20k ago, but could this be attributed to the tensioner.

Specs, mostly stock, BSEK, JVEK.... 10W30 oil, STP filter (I was told to stay away from Fram and the DriveWorks filters looked generic and cheap so I didn't want to risk it :) )

I've searched the forums but wasn't successful at finding a solution for this particular issue.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks guys.

-N8

Happy Birthday "Starfighterpilot" !

03 May 2013 - 05:16 AM

Hope you have an awesome day, thanks for all of your technical guidance over the years.

Take the 'old broad' out and celebrate your day!

-N8

GNon345s

29 April 2013 - 05:48 AM

Brand new member (at the time, post count zero)... he PM'd me right after my "trashed stock head" post, offering up a killer deal on a fully loaded brand new M28 head (unused for his newly acquired 89 swap project). Great guy with a killer garage :) And close to me to boot!

Definitely would do business with again! Hopefully soon!

Thx Dude!

-N8

Need a new head, what to go with?

24 April 2013 - 08:59 PM

Well, my red car lost the belt the other night, and the car overheated. Unbeknownst to me until I was almost home, the coolant was boiling when I got there. Figuring the head gasket was shot now, I had her towed to the in-laws garage and I proceeded to tear her down over the weekend.... here's what I found. Keep a barf bag handy when you see the cam :( (not sure what caused that either)

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I'm contemplating whether or not to go with one of Dad's bare M28 heads, and re-using valves/cam/lifters (from my Fiji... cracked head, but not the one pictured) or a complete Odessa set-up from eBay. This car has a stock 12A, a few hardpipes, and BSEK, JVEK. Nothing special, mostly stock.

What is my most reliable, but least expensive option? Thanks in advance fellas.

-N8