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GM MAF-T Nightmare


Colin
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So I installed a 3" GM maf with translator back in August. Had to modify the connector on the translator side, as expected. I tuned it and it was running really good for a few weeks. Then one morning I went to go to work and I started up the car and it was running really rich. Like 10.0 or below AFR. It got a little better when the car warmed up, but it would practically die when I came to a stop. I found and fixed two vacuum leaks which didn't help much. I finally just put the stock maf back on and it ran perfectly. I found a melted pin in the maf connector so I suspected that was causing the issue. I removed the wire from the connector, cut the pin off, and spliced it into the correct wire on the factory harness. This staill makes no difference. Again, the symptoms are: Too rich on startup, and too lean idling once the engine is warmed up. The car runs fine with the stock maf.
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i know this is no help but i have a MAF-T and cant stand it.i will be swapping it out for a Megasquirt.

the MAF-T has a fixed engine intake air temp setting of 78. if it gets colder out the MAF-T might need seasonal adjustments.

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Melted wire on the maft suggests too much current on that wire. May have hurt the maft. Personally I don't like those things. I ran one for all of one day. So inconsistent day to day. Settings that work fine at noon on a warm day are off after sunset when everything cools down. A standalone is a much better tuning device.
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Today I took the GM maf off the car to look at it and clean it. It did have a pretty good amount of oil on the wires so I sprayed it off with MAF cleaner and let it dry. When I went to put it back on the car, I noticed it was on the wrong way when I took it off. I installed it the correct direction and now the car seems to run better. The funny thing is it ran perfectly fine for three weeks before any problems occurred.
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I have had my maf t for about 3 years now. It works fairly well. I have noticed that every few months it needs readjusting a hair or two to keep the tune right. Having a wideband gauge is a must.

 

If you can't seem to get it running 100 percent set boost to factory pressure (assuming you might have it turned up) and get a solid base tune setup. After that increase boost in 2 psi increments and rich or lean the maf as needed until you get your target boost pressure/afr

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