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A turbo guideline ( Opinions needed )


Ironside
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I've been looking at upgrading my turbo and I have got a couple, but the point of this thread is a sort of guideline of use. Not looking to start a big debate just looking for opinions. What I was thinking is for example. If you want your car stock 12a 14b @ 10psi. Next step s16g 12psi good for street and quick spool 20g and so on. I don't know a lot about what each trim stand for and would like to get a better understanding on where each turbo shines in each application weather its race, street, drag. The effect or what to expect from each. This might have been already covered and if so link me please. Thanks Perry Edited by Ironside
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For street use i'm a fan of the quick spooling 14g and a even bigger fan of the 14b ,the 14b is quite a wicked little turbo for a street Sq . :) Edited by SOTTY
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for 1 thing a 20g is not a little turbo , even the small 05 turbine wheel will blow the head gasket right out from under the head , air flow estimates generaly used on them are made @15 lbs,, what they flow at 25+ is a big diff
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And don't even be thinking about a turbo without thinking about the turbine, it determines how much horsepower you can make. Air flow makes horsepower, air pressure without flow just blows headgaskets and spins bearings.
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I my case. I'm running a roller setup, monster banshee cam, os ss valves, Gen 2, 3"gm maf,. I have a holset h1c but it"s BIG to say the least. I also have a tdo5h 16g. I've been thinking about getting a 17c ( I think it was ) from John ( Starquestrescue ) for a while. My lil 12a seems to be on its last leg. I'm pretty sure I will have to replace my injectors and fuel pump. I also live a 5500 above sea level so this might be a consideration also.
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for you high ground lovers going with more duration cam adds more fuel with out makeing any other changes

reason is the valves are open longer so more air and FUEL enters the combustion chamber causeing richer fuel mixture at any boost level , plus the fact the roller holds the valve closer to full open longer then a sliper cam

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Thats not true. Ive been on a 20G over a year now and I daily drive it. I bought my car with a TD06 20G and its pretty quick at 18psi. Only thing its caused issues with is my clutch, its slipping. Before I put the divorced downpipe I could run 20psi now with a proper downpipe the clutch started to slip. Currently at 16psi until I get a new clucth in

 

All of my mods

 

MAFT

GM Maf

3" Divorced DP

3" Midpipe

HKS Catback

20G TD06 in OEM housing

Dual secondary injectors

Magnafuel adj fpr

Bosch 044

-6 AN fuel line

-6AN fuel filter before and after pump

PWR Rad

Spal 1800CFM puller fan

NGK 7s

NGK Wires

MSD Coil

JDL 2.5" IC Pipes

Precision core with Custom End Tanks

Tial Q BOV

272 Cam

Funk Lock

crappy clutch that slips

Innovate Wideband

Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC

3" Intake with V Stack

Podi Elec Coolant temp gauge

Podi Elec Boost gauge

9lb battery in the hatch

Edited by RonnieJ
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Thats not true. Ive been on a 20G over a year now and I daily drive it. I bought my car with a TD06 20G and its pretty quick at 18psi. Only thing its caused issues with is my clutch, its slipping. Before I put the divorced downpipe I could run 20psi now with a proper downpipe the clutch started to slip. Currently at 16psi until I get a new clucth in

 

All of my mods

 

MAFT

GM Maf

3" Divorced DP

3" Midpipe

HKS Catback

20G TD06 in OEM housing

Dual secondary injectors

Magnafuel adj fpr

Bosch 044

-6 AN fuel line

-6AN fuel filter before and after pump

PWR Rad

Spal 1800CFM puller fan

NGK 7s

NGK Wires

MSD Coil

JDL 2.5" IC Pipes

Precision 500HP core with Custom End Tanks

Tial Q BOV

272 Cam

Funk Lock

crappy clutch that slips

Innovate Wideband

Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC

3" Intake with V Stack

Podi Elec Coolant temp gauge

Podi Elec Boost gauge

9lb battery in the hatch

 

whats not true ??

i daily drove a 20g for over 5 years i never said it could not be done , what i said was the best choice for MOST guys would be a 16g

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You just said a 20G will blow a head gasket or am I reading your post incorrectly. Done right you can run it without worries of blowing things up Edited by RonnieJ
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First off, like Scott said, know what your talking about.

16g 17c 18g 19c 20g refers to the compressor wheel ONLY.

 

td05, td05h, td06, td06sl, td06h is the turbine.

 

A good turbo comes from a proper comp&turbine match to the engine.

 

If your looking for a descent jump in hp with minimal to no "lag". Go straight for a 16g td05h. Anything else is a waste of cash. This will easily go 275whp+ with minimal supporting mods and 12's in the 1/4mi on good tires.

 

 

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Ronnie try this if you do not beleave me,, pull the waste gate hose off and go boosting and see what will happen,

 

now i know your not gona do that but hoses do slip off and crack,, and you'l see 35 + lbs real quick with that 20g , if yours don't there is some thing wrong with it , and the average tbi car will loose a head gasket instantly , but as i recall in my posting i was talking to most guys and MOST guys don't include you guys that already know whats what

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I wouldn't do that even on purpose right now. My fueling wont support much more boost than ive ran. Hell any car isnt going to withstand a boost spike like that when not equipped/tuned for it. That why I have a wide band and boost cut on my EBC. Im sure we monitor our gauges and if something doesnt look right we back off. I know I would if I make more boost than my cut is set to or it I starts getting a little to lean for my liking.

 

I guess what im saying is the end user needs to be educated in the turbo choice and have the correct supporting mods

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hahaha, yeah shelby thats dumb reasoning.

 

Same thing would happen with a 12a if someones heater hose split.

So your common practice is to tell someone that their gasket will blow if something goes wrong? Thats true is MOST cases.

Injector failure, pump failure, electrical failure....

 

Poor reason to tell someone not to buy something.

Edited by Funky Phil
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By asking for opinions, you started an opinion war. You should have asked for facts. I went from a 12a to a 16g. Both at 7psi feel alright, but the 16g at 15psi feels a lot better than the 12a at 15psi. I have no hp numbers to produce, but I had to add ~30% more fuel. Also, here are some flowmaps to compare real numbers: http://ilostmymind.com/flowmaps/ And here is a great write up on how to read some of this stuff: http://www.stealth31...ompflowmaps.htm I almost forgot to mention this: http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/index.php?version=4&target_peak_power=250&pr_ref=14.696&engine_disp=2.6&engine_disp_factor=0&target_af=11&bfsc=0.51&max_ic_loss=1.7&rpm_redline=6000&rpm_peak_power=5000&rpm_max_boost=3500&rpm_min_boost=2800&vol_1=90&vol_2=90&vol_3=85&vol_4=70&vol_1=90&vol_2=90&vol_3=85&vol_4=70&intake_temp_1=90&intake_temp_2=100&intake_temp_3=100&intake_temp_4=110&turbo_n=1&map_sel0=87 <-extremely helpful. Edited by button
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I my case. I'm running a roller setup, monster banshee cam, os ss valves, Gen 2, 3"gm maf,. I have a holset h1c but it"s BIG to say the least. I also have a tdo5h 16g. I've been thinking about getting a 17c ( I think it was ) from John ( Starquestrescue ) for a while. My lil 12a seems to be on its last leg. I'm pretty sure I will have to replace my injectors and fuel pump. I also live a 5500 above sea level so this might be a consideration also.

If you have a16g 05h, bolt it on. It will out preform a 17c o5h. Nothing wrong with a 17c, but the 16g is a better turbo.
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