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motor mounts and shifter relocaters


Bill Hincher
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I was asked to build some motor mounts for the 4G63 in the Conquest

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts1.jpg

I put a dummy 4G63 engine with an R 154 trans in place to check how it all fit

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts2.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts3.jpg

I re used the stock rear crossmamber with the toyota mount

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts4.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts5.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts6.jpg

I wanted to be sure to clear the first gen CAS system

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts7.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts8.jpg

I wanted to find the shifter location and fix that

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts9.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts10.jpg

I know a lot of guys re used stock motor mounts but that dont make it the right set up

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts11.jpg

You have to measure the offset of the engine and find what is required to square up the system

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts12.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts13.jpg

after the measuring system is centered you can clearly see the offset at the rear

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts14.jpg

then the offset goes the other way at the trans output shaft

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts15.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts16.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts17.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts18.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts19.jpg

i got to square the engine not only up and down but also sideways and the angle of the engine , so there is no twist, then the mounts can be built

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormounts20.jpg

Edited by Bill Hincher
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In that last pic with the center of the crank shaft being measured.

What measurement from the face of the wheel hub to the core support do you have for the center?

This seems to be the best way to find center but I dont have these tools.

I just have string and chalk....or marker.

 

Did you happen to save any useable measurements on a notepad?

Even back at the firewall, trans tunnel shifter location.

Anything we can take note of that might help a man with no tools...lol

I know my swaps are nice and straight but it is nice to see if there could be a comparison.

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In that last pic with the center of the crank shaft being measured.

What measurement from the face of the wheel hub to the core support do you have for the center?

This seems to be the best way to find center but I dont have these tools.

I just have string and chalk....or marker.

 

Did you happen to save any useable measurements on a notepad?

Even back at the firewall, trans tunnel shifter location.

Anything we can take note of that might help a man with no tools...lol

I know my swaps are nice and straight but it is nice to see if there could be a comparison.

you buy the right book with the demensions so you can set your scale

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/book.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/book1.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/book2.jpg

 

you can get them at any body shop supply house

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Awesome! never seen one before.

 

I have a copy of the frame chart saved

from kabamus garage site under the "best to use what you got first" link

 

http://www.kabamus.com/index-frame1.html

 

 

http://www.kabamus.com/index-frame1.html

 

But sometimes people get different #'s it's always cool to share #'s.

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you buy the right book with the demensions so you can set your scale

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/book.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/book1.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/book2.jpg

 

you can get them at any body shop supply house

 

Damn. That woulda came in handy. Your a genius Bill.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

after I got pretty close to where it should be located, I built a little stronger mount using an angle iron and threaded rod so I could tilt the engine

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount10.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount11.jpg

you can clearly see what the problem was with the original engine mounts, the passenger side was so close it couldnt use the rubber cushion

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount16.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount18.jpg

just so we are all on the same page, this is located 2 inches ahead of the original location

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount20.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount23.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount26.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount27.jpg

I wanted a 2 degree slant towards the passenger side, so the engine tilts left

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount29.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount30.jpg

 

after measuring the drop in the driveline I found 1 to 2 degree was all I wanted in a tilt backwards

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount001.jpg

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motormount37.jpg

Edited by Bill Hincher
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  • 1 month later...

This applies to all the Toyota transmissions, this just happens to be an R 154 but it will work on the W series just as easy that long rod with the finger at the end of it is the key to building the remote shifter that is low enough to fit under the trans tunnel and move the shifter back as far as I wanted

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter.jpg

you can see here how the finger fits in the three shiftshafts to move the R 154 through all the different gear selections

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter11.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter14.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter13.jpg

 

 

at the other end of the shaft away from the finger end I built this recepter at an angle in an attempt to keep the shaft low, I built this as a starter project, I will take the numbers I found here and continue to lower it further

I built a couple pillar blocks and found the correct numbers to build the shift ratio for the sideways motion in the shifter, it was about 72%

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter37.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter33.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter35.jpg

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter36.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter15.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter16.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter19.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter18.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter21.jpg

 

I cut away the rear housing so I could see the shift motion in all gears, it shift as smooth as silk >;o)

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter23.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter25.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter27.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter28.jpg

Edited by Bill Hincher
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  • 4 weeks later...

I keep trying to mount the remote shifter as low as possible on top of the trans, I dont want as little obstruction as possible

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter38.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter41.jpg

 

 

I built a flange to mount the bridges accross and locate the new shifter rod, I keep moving peices back and forth, up and down trying to seek the lowest level and still maintain mechanical leverage

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter42.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter43.jpg

 

 

originaly I wanted to place a window here to see the pin go in place but I dont know if it would be an advantage to anyone

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter44.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter45.jpg

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