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Auto linkage bushings


Alan
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The Mits dealer in Huntsville, AL says the bushings are in the Atlanta wharehouse. Mine should be here thrusday if not before.I'll let ya know if they don't make it. MT20 2944, $5.22 each parts book item # 40 & 54(2 required). MA10 3843, $3.76 each part book # 47(4 reguired).
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Alan, should have told you the OEM bushings and rubber covers were still available. I ordered 2 sets, (never know if my next Starquest will be an auto). I've got 2 but trying to catch up to Mike's 4.
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No problem. I saw several posts going both ways on availablility. Just wanted guys to know in case the dealer didn't want to run them down for them. I'm still waiting on the master kit to come in. Spending my time cleaning everything I took off and also need to replace cv boots on right rear and get front tires before it comes off the jack stands. Everyone have a good weekend. Alan
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Thanks 89, hope I don't lead you astray. I have an assortment of cotter pins from other projects so I didn't include that. I have a lot more pic's than I have posted. Most of my time has been spent cleaning while waiting on parts. I waited untl I tore it down before I tried to find everything. When this is finished I'll have a "Lessons Learned" deal at the end. Will also include where and who I bought parts from. I started putting things back together tonite, will post pic's and narractive tomorrow. If you have any questions I can help you with let me know. I'm a weekend mechanic with a Army 20 year aircraft maintenace background ( thats why I'm in Huntsville, AMCOM at Redstone )so if I can do this, any one can. Take care
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  • 5 months later...

I used 1/2" heater hose (red in color) to replace the original bushings that turned to dust. The heater hose is nylon re-inforced and fits just as snug as the OEM bushings, plus it was a piece of cake to cut to length with a razor blade. It is 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD. I put a little 3-in-1 oil on the bushings to slide them into the housings/shaft. The shifter works great now in every gear.

 

More detail:

For the bushing held in place by the two C-clips; I layed the hose over the shaft with C-clips installed and cut the hose to length; then applied some 3-in-1 on the ID, removed one C-clip, slid the hose on, and reinstalled the E-clip. Then I lubed the OD of the hose and slid on the housing. For the housing mounted to the body of the car, I used a depth gage to measure the length of the bushing required (~1.25") I cut the hose to length, applied 3-in-1 on ID and OD and slid it into the housing. The housing has a lip to prevent the 'bushing i.e. hose' from coming back out. Then I simply put the linkage back together on the vehicle. Didn't even require adjustment (the housing on the body mount has a minor adjustment to it); I installed it in the same position as I removed it (via the markings from the bolt head on the housing) and it worked perfect. The entire process would have taken on 20 minutes if I wouldn't have snapped off the head of one of the bolts mounting the housing to the body (that took about an hour to repair :( )

 

All of my OEM boots were in good shape, so I just reused them.

 

 

Just an FYI; a free fix if you have some heater hose laying around.

 

 

kev

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