garystewart Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Started mocking the motor and tranny up this weekend. Flipped stock headers and had to cut the rear tube of both headers and reshaped them for better fit. Right now is just stock bottom end with world product heads and stock cam, old holley dominator intake, and tremec tko trans. Building my own turbo kit so we'll see how it goes. Got a carb coming from csu so the one in the pic is for mock up only.http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/fe74b27f.jpg http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/431db4be.jpghttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/f2b0e1b0.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Couple of pics before the real install. Stock block I had laying around and tremec 3550 tko1. And my beautiful csu carb. http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/8784f888.jpghttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/c8b4fe14.jpghttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/badf7383.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Sold the world product heads so I'm using stock heads. I should be good for 350 hp range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) You can still make good power with the stock heads.Id say 350 is modest depending on boost.Looks good. Edited September 26, 2011 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted September 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Yea, 350hp shouldn't be a problem but I don't want to get to excited about numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Got the fuel lines and fpr hooked up along with heater hoses.http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/a9f8d4ac.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazedZ Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 looking good.How did you fab up the motor mounts? any pics of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 I didn't take any pics but I'll see If I can get any good pics of them with the headers on. I made a plate a little bigger than the motor mount. It's about 3"x4". Drilled a hole in the center and bolted it over the factory motor mount stud. Bolted the motor mount to the k-member. Bought some 2" angle, cut it the length needed to mount to the block and drilled holes where they needed to be mounted. Used the engine hoist to hold the block as close as I could get to where I needed it to be and tacked a couple of welds where the 2" angle met the plate I made. Took it off and welded the crap out of it. Also made some triangle pieces to go on the inside of the 2" angle and welded them in to help strengthen them. That was the passenger side. Driver side was the same process but the 2" angle wasn't enough but I made some extensions(rigged) to make them work. Don't know if it will work but if they don't, I'll make a different set with thicker metal and pretty much the same process. Here's my turbo from VSracing. It's a magnum p trim .81arhttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/8b8b57a5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Looking good,what are you using fort he clutch.Hyd.slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Willwwod pull but I think the push version would be better. How's yours set up? I made a bracket off my motor mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 trust me,dont go with that Willwood pull type.I used it first and never did get enough travel.I even went with a Willwood Master cyl.that was supposed to be mated with the pull type slave.Theres a write up on using a push type from a toyota pick up thats only about ten bucks and it works alot better.thats what i went to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Heres the post but the pics have been deleted.maybe it might help. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88646 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Got some exhaust work done. http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/99bdd550.jpghttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/4248993d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Now I wish I would have done more research on slave cylinders. My brand new wilwood doesn't work. The bleed nipple leaks when it's tight. Going to advance right now to get a Toyota one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 yes toyota slave from i think a 91 4x4 works great! and about 20 bucks or so. I like the small wilwood master though, it seems to be a good find for about 40 something. nice build btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Got some exhaust work done.http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/99bdd550.jpg Oh My God man, I'd be happy with just the V8 in there, this is bananas. I REALLY want to drop in a Ford V8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted November 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 Sorry for the non post lately. Been trying to do this all by myself so it's been fustrating. http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/8325c53b.jpgDon't mind the sensor, it's just plugging a threaded hole.http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/39edc1e9.jpgMy down pipe.http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/a677d22f.jpgMy exhausthttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/7ccd245c.jpghttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/68280bba.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted November 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 Ya'll like where my wastegate exits. I messed up and got my weld crooked becasue it was supposed to go to my downpipe so I just drilled a hole in the fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted November 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 Got it running and just trying to get the bugs worked out. The car hasn't been driven since 09 so got some brake leaks, power steering leaks, squeaks, etc... I need some help on covering the hole I make in the hood to make it fit. Didn't want a cowl but I might have to go that route. Still want to give it that sleeper look. Any ideas on what I could cover that with that's not funny looking?http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/d36fb8ec.jpghttp://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b408/iamtinter/a6fb83b8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted November 25, 2011 Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 Excellent work on getting her going. Exhaust looks stout. Sucks on the hood man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garystewart Posted November 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I was trying to get it all under there but the carb hat is too big. Efi fits no problem. Oh well.Maybe this scoop.http://www.ebay.com/itm/330626965962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649orhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/110776341566?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Edited November 25, 2011 by garystewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FijiPhil Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Wow looks like some real nice work! Props on finishing it so quickly! I think that would have taken me forever.. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Just cut the hole out a little cleaner and leave it, keep 'em guessing. Maybe cut out a plate that fits around it and rivet it in for a mean look, haha. I've been considering this exact swap lately. I just need to finish up my gold car and find a clean roller, we've got 5.0's for days laying around my shop. Very well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mingo1 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Nice setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) for better hood clearance can you not take the chrome carb elbow off, then remove 1/2 inch or so from the bottom surface (where it mates to the carb)? It looks like theres quite a bit of extra material there. neither of those stick on hood scoops will cover that because of how wide they would have to be (unless you want to offset it to one side) but there really isnt one way to do that and make it look good.... i would try to get the setup to clear a stock hood..do they not make lower rise intakes for the 302 similar to this one (for an olds)? ?http://www.jegs.com/i/Offenhauser/750/5587/10002/-1?parentProductId=764102 This thing will be awesome when you get it out on the road Edited December 1, 2011 by Frenchi934 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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