I just fixed this on mine and thought I post it for everyone.   most of us probably have an inch or two of freeplay in the clutch pedal before it actually engages. if the master cylinder is not leaking, and there is no air in the system, then the problem is generally from two other sources.   either the pin connecting the master to the pedal is worn and grooved OR the U at the end of the arm of the mastercylinder has wornout elongated holes.   in realitly it is going to be a little of both.

Has anyone tried using a 1G ecu for a MPI EMS?  I've owned both, and besides having to make some sort of crank sensor and using 1g coils I don't see any other wiring issues.  Just run a few wires for 2 extra injectors, and the wires for a crank sensor/coil packs, and use factory harness/converted to a 1g pigtail and you shoudl be set correct?     I'm just debating cost here, I haven't decided if this will work or not, it was just a thought, but maybe someone on here could shed some light on som

here area few picsof my *DM hardpipe you wanted to see:

Guys you must stay cool these summer. We all know that these cars run hot, at least my always runs a bit on the hot side specially with the A/C on and in traffic.   Most of us have opted for Red Line's Water Wetter and at $8.00 is a good way to lower temps in the cooling system by making water more efficient and eliminating hot spotes in the head and block.   Now consider the SAME principle as red line's water weter but at only $0.02 a teatmet.   All you need is TWO TABLESPOONS of LIQUID SOA