The injector clips often get corroded/gunked up and fail to make a proper contact. The primary injector runs until around 3000 RPM (about the same time you reach 0 psi on the boost gauge) and then the secondary kicks in. If the secondary injector doesn't start spraying, the car suddenly goes into a major lean-out and falls on its face.   Go out and buy some new injector clips (sometimes also called "connectors", "sockets" or "pigtails"). They're found at most parts stores for $5-10 each, usuall

The hinges on the rear lid are adjustable on the body, here is how you do it (It is a pain in the a**).   NOTE: It is very helpful to have a factory manual anytime attempting a task of this nature. The manual illustrates how to remove such panels without damaging them.   1. Remove the rear headliner (roll bar trim) by prying downward on the rear of the liner (edge near the hatch opening) and inserting a trim stick or screw driver between the liner and the clips. Remove the clips and remove the

Take off the valve cover so you can see the valve train. With a big socket wrench, turn the crankshaft pully bolt (clockwise only!!!) until the timing mark on the pully is right at the 0 degree timing mark. Look at your camshaft sprocket -see the pin that locks it to the small stub that sticks forward to drive the distributor? That pin should be right at 12 o'clock - straight up. If it's near 6 o'clock, turn your crankshaft one full turn (clockwise again!) back to 0 deg. Now that pin should be

Is there (or will there be) a way to drop pics into posts like on the other site?   Just curious. URL's also.