Ernie88TSi

Mech, there is no reason to resort to a post like that.

The torque converter needs to be installed into the transmission first. As you push the torque converter in, you need to spin the torque converter to engage all the splines. You'll feel three different "steps" as it slides into the pump. Now, before you install the torque converter, carefully inspect the spines on the torque converter, as well as front pump seal and look into the front of the transmission where the torque converter goes into the pump for damage. Removing the engine with the torque converter attached is a big no-no and should only be done if the engine is completely locked up and you can't turn the flex plate to get to the bolts. Removal of the engine like this almost always damages either the front pump seal, the front pump in the transmission, or the torque converter.

Factory front tire size for the 88-89 SHP cars were 225/50/16's anyway, rear was 245/45/16. They work just fine on the non SHP rims.

You have a regular 87 wastegate acuator. It is set @ 7.5 psi. Your car does not have a boost controller, so the only way that the previous owner had the boost "set" at 10.5 is if he screwed the rod for the wastegate acuator all the way in. It doesn't look like that's the case unless it was done a long time ago, based on the fact that the adjustmet stuff is pretty nasty looking, doesn't appear to be wrenched on... unless he did that a LONG time ago. I would assume more along the lines that the previous owner was blowing smoke up your tail, or he came under the assumption that the ECU controls boost... like stated earlier, the ECU has NO control over the boost levels in any way, shape or form. Just as a quick note, the metal gasket between the downpipe and the back of the turbo is leaking very badly... that's the white residue around the turbo/downpipe mating surface. The only way to properly raise the boost pressure is to use a boost controller, manual or electric. Adjusting the rod to it's shortest position is a bad way to raise the boost.... that adjustment isn't there to control the boost level, it is there to ensure the proper opening of the wastegate. Before messing around with the boost levels, you need a real, accurate boost gauge, not the stock one, pure and simple. Unless your fans are not turning on, replacing your electric fans with a clutch fan will NOT fix your cooling system. You need to fix your cooling system properly, and not try bandaid fixes like just swapping in a clutch fan or wiring all three of your fans together, or having the cooling fans on all the time. It's fixes like that, that give these cars a bad name, people assuming they're unreliable, etc. Your radiator is probably full of trash, and your car will run hot, no matter what thermostat or fan setup you run. Please fix it right and don't half-tail it. You'll be saving yourself a lot of heartache and money in the long run to fix it right the first time around. Your choices for the o2 sensor are just a regular one wire replacement that plugs right in, or stepping up to a 3 or 4 wire o2 sensor. As far as your intercooling piping, really, as long as you don't have any tears you're fine. The accordian hose between the air can and the turbo are known for cracking right where the hose clamp holds it to the turbo. You will have runability/driving issues if this is torn. As a side note, Mitsubishi actually recommends in your owner's manual that the accordian hose be replaced every 80k miles, or something like that. Of course, that never gets done.

SHP wasn't available until 88. No 87's had that option.

Here is the link to the TSB. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48904

Your car wouldn't happen to be an 87, would it? If it is, the ETACs is a known problem. There is a TSB out about your specific problem. It's listed in the FAQ forum. Basically, your only fix is to replace the ETACS. In the TSB, there is a list of part numbers for the bad ETACS. Quick check is to unplug your ETACS unit (located under your seat) before you park the car for the night, and see if it fixes the problem.

Oh yeah, I forgot to ask, what does your exhaust consist of? Is it 100% stock, 3", etc? My '86 TSi had a resonator installed. It failed internally, and even though when the car was off, you could look right thru it, when the car was running, it would flat out not let the car boost past 8 or 9 psi, way less then what my boost controller was set at. It would spool fine up to 8 or 9psi, but wouldn't go past, even if I completely unplugged the wastegate.

So did you take a look at the car? What wastegate does it have? Does it have the metal ignitor and the solinoid on the air box lid? In all honesty, I don't think I've ever heard of anyone going thru that much effort for 3psi. You can purchase a little hand pump that attaches to a vac line. Hook that up to your wastegate. Now as you apply pressure to the wastegate, watch to see when it moves compared to the psi reading on the gauge of the hand pump. Also, the 87 and below wastegates are supposed to be at 7.5psi. If it was going higher than that, that means that someone has been messing with the adjustment for your wastegate arm. This is not a correct method to adjusting your boost levels! Of course, if you've crushed the hell out of the exhaust, it's not going to reach high boost levels no matter how things are set.

Not much, really. Suspension components are the same, except for SHP specific parts. Rear end is 4 bolt on the 87 compared to the 88-89's 6 bolt. The 88-89 is stronger. Physically they'll all bolt up. If you were to swap an 87 rear end into an 88, it would be easiest to just swap the whole rear subframe. Torque tube is the same between the rear ends though. The 87 has the smaller clutch/flywheel compared to the 88-89's 240mm clutch/flysheel. Transmission isn't quite as beefy... but, as in the case of the rear ends, most people aren't making enough power here to notice a difference. All changes are internal, and an 87 trans will work just fine in an '88. The 88-89 ECU is better than the '87 ECU. Technically, if you swapped the cases (87 ECU wires come in from the top, 88-89 wires come into the bottom of the ECU) an 87 ECU will run an 88-89 car. All interior, heating, and A/C bits swap. The wiring harness concerning the ignitor box is a bit different between the 87 and 88-89 cars to allow for control of the 3 port wastegate on the later models. Intercooler is a 14 row, compared to a 12 row on the 87 cars. Engines are the same, other than the ignitor and the ECU, the engine electronics are the same (sensors, etc) Other than the ignitor, pretty much everything is swappable between the cars. There weren't any drastic changes between the 87s and 88-89s. Any changes that were made, the 88-89s get the preferable parts.

Swap in a G54B, that'll be different.

Other than the wastegate, the turbo system is identical to the 87 models. Also, note that negative measurements are in inches of mercury, not in psi. Just letting you know... while not in this particular instance, the scale of measurement is important when you're trying to explain to someone a problem over the internet. Have you noticed a performance drop, or just a change in the gauge? You really need an actual gauge on there to determine anything. Our boost gauges are decently accurate at stock boost levels... but it doesn't take much of a change at all to throw it off. The 88-89 style wastegate has three vacuum ports on it. The 87 and below only have one. When you pop your hood, it'll be pretty obvious. I'm kind of interested in what your mechanic saw that showed the wastegate had been modified... Based on your previous posts... you REALLY need to look into getting together with a knowledgeable member of this board, or a better set of mechanics. Your current guy that gets lost trying to modify something doesn't bode well for you. Anywho... The 88-89 (or any other year for that matter) has NO control over the boost levels. The switching between 7.5 and 10.5psi is controlled completely by the ignitor. To make that system work, you'd need the 3 port wastegate, the solinoid that goes on the airbox, the metal ignitor box, and the associated wiring. If you don't have all three of those, then your car has no way of controlling the boost beyond base wastegate settings.

The speedo is cable driven.

The wideblock also came in 4G63 2.0 flavor as well as the 4G64 2.4 wideblock. As stated before, the wideblock drops into place with no modification, bolts right to the factory transmission. It's a lot less work compared to using a narrowblock 4G6x.

The stickies are read about as often as the FAQ.

Yeah, but Billy can't say he got beat up by a hooker. :-)

Heh, watch MJ release like 10 more CD's now that he's gone... I mean hell, Tupac did it!

That doesn't necessarily match up to US models. In the first model year, you could also get a Starion non-turbo with a live axle in the back.

That doesn't necessarily match up to US models. In the first model year, you could also get a Starion non-turbo with a live axle in the back.

Like any modification, you need to look at your driving style and what you're wanting the car to do for you. A lighter flywheel will help with letting the engine rev faster. A heavier flywheel is important in the "driveablity" factor. If you're creeping along in stop and go traffic, what keeps you going at a few MPH without the car bucking like crazy, or stalling out, is the inertia of the flywheel. That being said (there are other pros and cons), the quality on the Fidenza is great. The friction material can be replaced seperately of the rest of the flywheel. There is a bit of a learning curve when you switch to the Fidenza, as the low RPM characteristics of the engine change a bit. But, after a few intersections, you're completely used to it.

It's all in the terms of service which you agreed to when you joined the site. "You agree, through your use of StarQuestClub.com, that you will not post any material which may be seen as false, defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise in violation of ANY law. This is not humorous, and legal actions can be taken against you. You also agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you or you have consent from the owner of the copyrighted material. Spam, flooding, advertisements, chain letters, pyramid schemes, and any similar solicitations are also inappropriate to StarQuestClub.com." You're new around here, and I'm just letting you know what isn't allowed.

You can unhook the battery 400,000 times and it won't make a difference in the world, provided that you ALWAYS unhook the neg first, and you hook up the neg last. If you just disconnect the positive first, or hook it up last, is where you can possibly damage something in your electrical system. I highly doubt that it would've been the cause anyway. The ECU, ETACs, and the numerous other small computers in the car are way more sensitive than the back of the dash cluster. On the fuel and coolant gauges, if they've got a full direct ground, they'll peg themselves high.

Yeah, I like how the news was talking about how everyone was selling out of all of their MJ stuff.... there was some people on the news that acted like just because he died, they were gonna quit selling his stuff. Financially speaking, the smartest thing he could've done was kick the bucket like three years ago.

Race car? You're missing the whole point of what Mitsubishi intended this car to be. The part you're referring to, is a bracket that replaces the A/C bracket. It was used on non A/C equipped pickup trucks. It does not relocate anything. The alt and everything stay in their original position.

Pull the dash out and inspect the printed circuit on the back of the dash. You've probably got a small break around the area around the LED, or one of the contacts from the LED is touching the printed circuit.