Ernie88TSi

Eh, this thread will be open until it turns into an insulting pissing match. I give it to the end of the 2nd page before myself or Jimmy have to delete it.

You can't build engine based on what psi you want and then just pick a turbo later... doesn't work like that. 20psi from one turbo is a whole 'nother game compared to 20psi from another turbo.

Wiring 3 fans together is not an upgrade... it's a bandaid by owners that can't or won't fix their cooling system properly. Those flushes that you buy and run the engine for a bit and then drain it out doesn't do crap. It may loosen up some of the minor gunk, but the major stuff that's actually effecting the cooling system gets hard like cement. You need to look into getting the radiator rodded or replaced. Another issue I see crop up more often than people realize is that all the gunk that's clogging up your radiator also settles into the cooling passages on the block. Only way to really get that stuff out is to have the block hot tanked, and then before reassembly turn the block upside down and tap the sides with a hammer. You'll see a huge pile of crap on the floor after some hits. The block issue is on the extreme end. Usually if the radiator is up to par, then it can compensate for the reduced flow in the block. As for the thermostat, there is a point in the automotive world that just like being too hot, being too cold can be an issue as well. Things are designed to work within a set operating range. The real point that I'm trying to make though, is throwing in a lower thermostat and wiring the fans together is a hack way to go about things. Doing the job right isn't difficult, and most likely results in saving you money in the long run.

Don't worry, they've been documented and archieved.

What I'm getting at is diagnois the problem, instead of just throwing fixes/parts at it hoping that it'll work. If you do the just "throwing fixes/parts" idea, then you run the risk of causing more issues, which will further muddy your diagnois.

It's just not the same rant without you being half-loaded.

Get a better idea of what's actually going on before you do the throttle body rebuild. Otherwise you're just introducing the possibility of more problems onto your original problem.

Intake or throttle body gasket will cause coolant burning without mixing with the oil. A headgasket/cracked head may or may not mix coolant with oil. A bad timing cover gasket can cause mixing of coolant and oil with no coolant burning (I know, opposite of your problem, just throwing this out as general knowledge). Don't forget a combustion gas checker is a simple and cheap way to help with the diagnois.

The full boost shift into overdrive is where most of the damage occurs.

SHP was an independent option, as in it wasn't packaged with other options. There were very few available options for our cars, so there wasn't really much to work with as far as "option packages". By 88-89, for the most part the only real options were exterior color, interior color/fabric, sunroof, SHP, automatic or manual transmission, and, umm... that's about it. On that specific car, SHP is a mute point anyway, it's an '87. Easy to tell, the rear bumper is black, it's got the three piece front spoiler, and the uber-comfy seats. It's not an '86 because it's got the automatic seat belts.

The easiest is to just leave it in. Really, it's not worth the effort. You will never notice a difference if it is there or if it isn't. If you really want to remove it, look in the factory service manual so you know where all the screws are. You don't have to remove the dash to get the evap core out, like the heater core requires. Unless you're like me, and are a little guy, prepare to grow a second elbow.

All those hoses have a threaded coller... just unscrew them. Some are a larger size, just use an adjustable wrench.

Thanks for the kind words. It probably would've been a bit more simple to list what I didn't do. Also did timing/balance shaft chains, diagnosed a bad Mass Air Flow Sensor, bad coil wire, and, ummm, I'm sure I'm forgetting a couple things as well. lol Oh, and it's a Galant GSX. It was fun being able to mess around with your car, it looks, handles, and runs great.

Why cut the line just to remove it? That line is no longer available. If you're going to remove all of this stuff, might as well not hack it all to pieces, and let someone that is interested in having A/C have the stuff. Sad thing is all your car probably needs is a recharge that you could do yourself for $40 and 15 minutes of your time.

enough hacking that all you'd have left is the collector and turbo flange.

What was the reason for the original engine failing? When you have a problem like spinning a bearing or a rod knocking, it'll oval out the big end of the connecting rod, and just as you assume, will come back and bite you in the tail at one point or another. With that being said, I've seen instances where people skip this step, and their motor fails in 200 miles. I've also seen them skip that step, and it last 200k miles. Did you reuse your original crank? If not, was the crank you are now using from an automatic car? There is a ring that must be removed or the flywheel will not seat correctly. IIRC, I've seen new cranks shipped with that ring installed.

As for the temp issues, that "fix" you've done has probably clogged/damaged your thermostat. I would definately recommend doing a combustion gas test on your cooling system. It is not unusual for a blown head gasket/cracked head to overpressurize the cooling system. If your radiator cap can't relieve the pressure quick enough, the pressure will find the next easiest way to get out. Also note that it is possible to have a blown head gasket without white smoke pouring out of your exhaust. Please keep in mind that little $5 fixes that people do to "just get by", either until the money comes in, or the parts comes in, usually ends up costing the person hundreds of dollars in the very near future. Point is, you were running with a compromised cooling system... the result of which is a real possibility of damaging the head. Just something to think about in the future. Same goes for those fixes in a can... just about anything that claims to stop leaks usually ends up doing more damage than good. In the future, park it, take the bus, bum rides off of friends, walk, ride a bike. The inconvience over a few days now will save you a LOT more troubles and money in the future. Do not use power steering fluid in your system unless you're wanting to replace that sucker once again. Are you using brand new pumps or used pumps? How exactly are they failing? When you install the pumps, are you bleeding the system? Also, how much tension are you putting on the belt. Putting a large amount of tension on the belt is not necessary, and may indend cause premature failure. Same rings true for your other belts as well. There are specs in the service manual on belt tension, but as a basic rule of thumb, you want the belts as loose as possible without squealing or slipping.

3800's as well.

Check the green circuit board on the back of the dash. When installing the boost gauge you either put a tear thru the power feed for the gauges, or there was a small break in the traces that got disturbed.

At most, you'd have to remove your water pump/alt belt. Keep in mind that really the chains/guides need to be replaced at 100k miles.

At 100k miles, adjustment time for your balance shaft chain has come and gone many moons ago. At 100k, the chains/guides need to be replaced.

Yup!

Correcto StarWolf, I've got a '91 Green Galant GSX.

Congrats, she looks just like you!

Fuel cut doesn't kill the pump.