speed racer

That's chad's intake.i'd be all over that if wasn't about to buy tires for mine,need those more at the moment.maybe it will be around a few weeks,.building my own version of the EIP cannon but god knows when will get around to finish it,

Had an airtex e8000 fuel pump when first put my car back together.wasnt worth the box it come in.bad outta the box.wouldn;t even pull fuel from the tank muchless enough pressure to run properly.and yes....everything else was new.the pump just sucked so took it back for my $.got a different pump...started up in a couple cranks and has ever since.swap the pump for the walbro one and see if it don't help.

fire suit?life insurance?all the stuff mentioned you need a damn good idea too.I would have mounted te cell in the stock tank location and not in the interior.

he can keep those mounts.geez.idk how much thhey are but that seems like bs.wouldn't mind having the head and valve train stuff for the 2nd engine I got to build.

the first pump I got didn't work,wasnt a walbro but one of the other common replacements ppl here use.wouldnt even turn on at first.checked wiring...all good.,then once got to run would pull gas from tank at all.ended up with fp from Orieleys

get a car audio fuse holder and a 80amp fuse.done.

is normal.i wanna buy every old 3 series bmw I see also.also every old chevy or ford pickup truck ect.I

damn...just damn,lol,lawyers are porob the highest educated ppl in the country aside from doctors and not a bit of sense,i know a lot of dr and lawyers and a few have sense....not all.

put it on and go.if your car is an 88 or 89 should be fine fuel wise.an upgrade vs stock for sure.use it toil ya have the $ for even better since you already buy it and got what needed to install.,if ya blow your engine...just fix it.lol.,not the end of the world.i have an extra engine just incase.lol

it sat for 2 yrs?did it run fine before it sat in storage?there's part of the problem.my guess.sensors don't,shouldn't go bad just sitting,maybe its possible but I don't believe it,my guess would be a bad injector.clogged by crap from it sitting with gas in it.in them...had that prob with mine after my injection mixer stuff lived in a sealed box inside for a few yrs,runs fine warming up since ecu richens.once warmed up and back to normal flow isnt enough fuel....secondary prob same condition,if wasn't from the gas in the injectors could been fro fuel in line or tank or filter even.thats my guess based on my own experience and headaches,check all the other stuff as mention if ya want but id look to injectors first.

is 80 for 88/89.so say fsm.

checked for injectors leaking?i

a s*** link....try again......

been using a 'crushed' 1st gen bov from an eclipse for yrs.vented to atmosphere..never had a prob.just put back on my car now that it long psychotic fuel injection issue is cured.Before I compressed the bov in a vise it didn't run for crap though.running a 1st gen MAF too.have aftermarket injectors from lower shores(lucas not the usualy delphis) and tookn a while to find a happy spot adjustment wise for TPS.the car wanted to idle with both injectors firing at stock setting.idk how others here made them work but they work for me now so....time to drive the frankenstien..

sweet.i know this is a kinda old post but have had same issue for a while.runs ok w both running just fouls plugs if I sit and idle too long and well wastes expensive gas.will check both of the TPS I have.maybe both bad as I swapped in one I got from an engine I got and it didn't fix anything.now just need a day or evening off in daylite to do it.

maybe later.for now I just want this mofo somewhat driveable.Which triglogy injector is which?primary/secondary?just/need..want a simple answer which seems impossible to get here.And as far as complex goes I think I can handle a mpi conversion.couldn't be much worse than FANUC and Motoman manufacturing robots/PLC's.really have no interest in taking the stock TBi system beyond daily driver.if works great..if not oh well.try something else

I got a set of trilogy injectors on an engine I got from a guy wanting to do a v8 swap.not sure which is the 650 and which the 950 though as stupid as that sounds.forgot or wasn't paying attention when I was taking all the crap apart and there is not clear decisive id on tem.one has a sticker around it with trilogy turbos on it in red...the other says the same in black.the ends of each has 6 tiny holes..on the red lettered injector the 6 tiny holes look a hair bigger than the black ones so id guess its the 950cc for use as a secondary.Im cleaning my stockers and reusing tem.got a set of injecotrs from lower shores and my car doesn't like them nor does it like the trilogy injectors much.I have no desire to get a maft pr a gf mas.just seems like a mega headache.for that headache i'd rather just make the leap to MPI conversion.

have rebuild 2 2.6's,a few 350's and a bmw 2.7 and only used stp during assemble....no preprime before start up and even the 2.6's w hyd lifers got quiet in 2 seconds.enough piece of mind for me,my most recent starion rebuild sat in car for a couple monts before ever try to start.had ground for ignitor box off so cranked and cranked before realized then got car started.registered good oil pressure the whole time.now that have wiring issues finally worked out oil pressure great idling and at 3/4 drivin or around 75-85psi by mech gauge..hot engine wit 20w50 idle is 65psi.im happy with that.still in break -in period. pre-oiling not bad idea but if ya don't is fine.If ya messed up something during rebuild it's gonna show itself soon anyway,piece of mind is worth something I suppose.pulled a 350 outta a car at local pick-and-pull about 2 yr ago and just replaced some gaskets,bearings then dropped in my old truck.75psi idling still and almost 100 cruising to work,.engines are a lot tougher and more tolerant of in-perfection than we think.drove the same truck with a weak 305 and 15psi idle oil pressure for 4 yrs.gotta pull heads and rebuild them soon.maybe more.idk yet.but I got a yr and a half outta a $150 engine.some $ and time and will drive on....beats a big car payment and I enjoy working on it wit my kids help.But tis is just MY opinion and opinions are like .....noses.....everybody has one,if my starion was my only life concern i'd be a LOT pickier about it...but since it isn't....it will be just fine even with a few slight inperfections,

rockauto stuff does come from closeout sales.no way of knowing where it originally come from.the risk of buying cheap online stuff.On the other hand I've gotten bad or wrong stuff from all 3 of the autoplaces here in last couple yrs....like 50% of the time.advance,autozone and orieleys....on 4 occasions it was a part that failed causing a breakdown on the road.made in mexico fan belt the latest.walked 6 miles last Friday in 97 degree TN heat and humidity.the belt on my truck was 2 months old.the thermostat that stuck closed back in late june was 4 months old.sucks when a $5 part kills your engine.,doesn't really matter where you buy it anymore...may as well buy the cheapest cause none of it is made with any quality in mind anymore.Original parts from a dealership is the best option.ofcourse good luck finding parts for a 25 yr old car at local Mitsubishi dealer.

new brake booster time.i need one too.lol...after finish fixing wiring harness plugs.remove the vac line to booster and plug the intake port.don't drive just let it run/idle and see how different it is.had the same problem with my 30+ yr old truck.luckily those are everywhere down here and a replacement is cheap and quick.

I got a good running engine(despite a rod knock) and all the efi ,sensors,ecu,ignitor box from a guy at work doing a v8 swap and swapped all hisd stuff to my car.,no change in the flooding out and running badly till I was messing with the harness near the mas while running.suddenly it straitened out for a min or so till I let moved it some and back to its normal bad behavior.i tested his TPS,cts ect and all were good.not the most scientific method of testing for sure but was more of a hint from the universe than Ive gotten so far.it took 20 min to get the blower box out and shouldn't take long to get harness out and go thru it inside away from the mesquitos...I started checking continuity of the wiring outside a couple weekends ago but got eat up by those blood suckers and say the hell with that.

no prob w that.finding time working 70 hrs a week diff story.if its just a plug to disconnect from the harness...sweet.The part o the harness from main relay up to where it merges into the main part is all wrapped with vinyl electrical tape as is part of the arness a few inches down from the connectors.till yday was hidden by the blower box,will get it all out and bring inside to go thru it,was just onna pull out 4 oir 5 ft but that's half butt'in it and I don't wanna miss anything.besides...the mesquitos in late eve here will eat you alive.

thanks for the cord idea to put it back.got the blower assembly out last nite a lot easier than expected.will attack wiring harness tmoro eve.does the other end tie into the harness on the driver side of the car at all or is totally separate,?

pretty muc narrow down my 88's weird probs to a fault in wiring harness.somewhere from ecu plugs to 4 ft or so into the harness....the part that's hidden in the framework of the car.so this eve after got home from work yanked out the blower assembly to get to the harness...where it goes thru firewall,.I stopped once got it out.will deal with wiring harness tmoro eve.first thing I noticed was a lot of electrical tape;im guessing that isn't factory original from Mitsubishi in 1988.im just the 2nd owner of the car but it was in 93 when I got it.when had it apart I realized it had been wrecked and fixed in the front.its very strait and all but it as been apart.the wiring harness runs thru the firewall in the area somebody fixed.looks like they may have hacked up the harness some.it worked fine till I tore the car apart and rebuilt the passenger side floor and lower firewall.i thougt maybe in my welding of the floor patch panels I had burnt the harness somehow.will check it good for that but didn't expect to see electrical tape.the underhood part of the harness has a different kinda wrapping so id say the elec tape is somebody elses work.funny the things you discover in a car.

it is a ford TPS.looks like same 4.6 ltr TB I snagged(maybe not).wish I had cut the connector and a few inches of wire with it.I got mine off a thunder chicken,the mustang ones are better to use it seems but for $5 seemed like a deal.Go to a pick and pull and find a connector in good condition and cut it with as much wire pigtail as you can,te CTS looks like a GM type.find a gm car and get that too.I'm just at the collecting phase so im grabbing anything I think I may need or can use.,