tux

I'm planning on it starting in January. Repainted over the rest of the winter, then dyno tuned in the Spring and A/C working by summer

Thanks! It's been 10 slow lazy years in the works

Good to know. I'll continue with the original plan, only because I already ordered new fittings, and if I did clock it, i may have to worry about the water line being too short or needing to change the fitting on that.

Unfortunately if i clock the turbo, the bracket that holds my internal wastegate closed won't line up correctly. It's cheaper to just remove the AN fitting and replace it with a 90 and buy a banjo to -4AN

The head getting built/assembled on a desk http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120623_161710.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120623_161721.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120630_193229.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120630_193249.jpg Debacle with the Trilogy Fuel rail http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120630_193322.jpg Engine and Head put back in with all accessories and wiring starting to get cleaned up Driver Side http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120724_223838.jpg Passenger Side http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/cars/IMG_20120724_223846.jpg Still need to get the coil packs wired replace the fittings on the turbo oil feed (hood won't close) and make the downpipe longer/relocate the O2 bung. The manifold Chad made years ago sits the turbo much higher than I expected, so I'll have to work around that.

Happened to my WRX as well during a heavy rain. But granted, the filter was not out of the way and up as high as that picture

my brother's mustang has 90,000 some odd miles on the ford style coils.

I got one of the plates, it's a very nice plate. 20g has clearance issues, but that's not his fault, it's the turbo's

i'm not planning on running the A/C into the ECU either. Unless I absolutely need to get the IAC valve wired in. But I'm hoping to not mess w/ one.

i had one stick years ago. i think i got one from napa for like 40 bucks. wasn't fun to try and get to napa though.

check the relay. hit the button and have someone else listen for it to click

I found a site once that will make memory foam cushions for the bottom and back. You just have to give them dimensions. Wasn't cheap but I can try and find it.

i don't agree with the checkpoints. you are supposed to be able to travel freely without having to prove your identity. DUI checkpoints. OK, it's like fishing. Light Cameras I think is bologna, being that you have no recourse if the camera is wrong. Just like the camera's at the toll booths. They give you a ticket whether you paid or not if the machine is jammed, and they only snap a pic of the license plate.

Do you have all the turbo heat shield components

This would be cool, but reproduction wide body mudflaps would be way cooler. I thought about making them... but I don't have the 400-500$ to buy a set

My original rail didn't require any modification. *aside from the FPR

None of the rockers have jet valve arms. Cam towers/rockers and the head are from Caravan. The camshaft is from a Starion (but as I understand it the cams are all of the same lift/duration) . They all look the same with the 1-3 marking . Some have another number like 12-3 12-1 13-3 and 13-2 on them . Installation #1 says "all rockers are of the same type" which is what would cause me to assume they are the same . Why I wanted to verify. I'll take them off and check to see if they all have oiling holes or not . Thanks

I was wondering something. before I toss my head back on the car (came back from machine shop a bit ago). I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the mechanical rocker arms are different between intake and exhaust. As in, can they be interchanged. If not, can someone let me know how to tell which should be intake and which should be exhaust. I left the rocker assembly on when I took it to the shop, I just want to make sure it's right before I toss it in the car. As I hope to not have to pull anything else out of this car again for a long time

Oh man, she's not even centered. I got no ideas for that

It seems it wasn't designed to clear either. Before i put the injector hats on and had the second nipple off it didn't clear either. Looks like it will work now, but it took more work than it was worth. Shouldn't have strayed from the original rail.

Take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut a groove into them and use a flat head screw driver Or sears makes EZ-Outs that work pretty good.

I just cut channels/slots instead of using the screw holes. In all honesty, this rail was a waste of money. Here's the pics I said I'd post when it was pretty much all done http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/IMG_20120630_193300.jpg Here you can see, it still doesn't safely clear the nipple. With how much of a pain it was to get on... I may try and find a nipple that is a 90. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/IMG_20120630_193322.jpg

I finally got them seated w/ the fuel rail on. Took some convincing, used a plastic pen cap dipped in plastidip to kind of push the injectors down into the bungs, then had to cut slits along the brackets that came with the rail so I could bolt it down to the manifold. I'm not sure its completely a matter of the rail being designed for longer injectors like I was told by trilogy... as now my injectors are the same length as the Delphi's that were recommend and it still took quite a bit of work. The cut out now barely clears that last nipple on the 4th cylinder. I'm going to try and find a 90 degree nipple to put there. I do feel that this rail is not exactly the best investment and I should have given up and tossed the magna rail back on. But it looks like it'll work now.. way more hours invested that I would have liked.

i like it

for my own info from C had Magna = 14 mm O-ring AKA common domestic injectors DSM = 11 mm O-ring AKA common import.