shift1313

yeah someone posted it a while back and if i remember most of the comments were about the girl.

glad to see it man. nice to get another es on the road;) mike are the header panels not the same? i could see the markers maybe being different.

ive seen some crappy paint jobs so this has to be good. Ive seen one of the cheap 199 dollar job that was metalflake!! I dont even think they stirred the paint! Make them redo it or get some of your money back for sure! how much was it?

kinda funny years ago i was taking a few girls out and we were walking in the parking lot and they said, whats yours. Next to my rusted out 85 bronco was this really nice 90s ford truck on 38.5 super swampers, immaculate. I said the big ford, cause you could see it from miles away. when we got up there i unlocked the bronco and smiled:) If you drive a car to impress the ladies you got it all wrong:) i drive/drove some crap and had no trouble with the ladies. I was even at a girls house once, her dad walked in and said "is the painter here". I was like, no sir thats my truck there is something to be said about not worrying if your car will be stolen or not.

what about early mazdas? or datsuns?

here is another thread with some more pics in it. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=76965 when you are asking about the steering knuckle being 2 bolt vs 3 bolt you mean at the bottom of the strut housing? you can see in my last pic the two bolts. were you hoping to bolt that to your lower control arm? Honestly i thought it was 3 bolt but i just dont remember off the top of my head, i thought i had a better pic but couldnt find it. Ill have to crawl under my car tomorrow. there has been rx7 front end swaps, and nissan cross member swaps that may be a possible direction to look into.

ive considered it before and may try it on my bronco. The price is right but the sanding time involved is whats kills me. Basically thinning the paint out with mineral spirits helps it self level(so ive read). Ive seen the pics of the orange charger and beetle that im sure are the best of the best. If you dont have an air comp or a way to spray your car this may be a good option if you are willing to spend the time to do it right. I think hot rod magazine did a car this way, then did a two tone with aerosol. I think it was an old nova(mid 70s) but i dont remember exactly. i didnt click on the link but i remember a lot of stuff coming up under Tremclad(canadian rustoleum)

you know i half expected this story to take a different turn. So there we were driving the girls home in the middle of nowhere and i look up, the moon is full, and the starion dies. only odd thing is, one headlight goes down and back up real fast like the car is winking at me saying "your welcome fanta, maybe you will repay the favor by fixing me" The best was when i first got my car i was on the way to school with my girlfriend and at a stop light the car dies just before the light turns green, thankfully it was down hill, green light i coasted through the light off to the side of the road, hop out, wiggle the knock box connector, hop back in, crank-vroom! Being able to fix a car on the fly(she didnt know what i did) can be a turn on for some girls, then again ive been on the other side of that where i broke down 4hrs from home and turned a 4hr trip into a 15.

i dont leave my cars at anywhere. If i was getting tires put on the starion i would take the rims in. my jeep, i took it to an actual tire dealer(not walmart) and waited there to make sure it was done right.

typically i dont go for the sticker look but i think it looks good on your car. i might loose the big one on the door though.

new black vs 20 year old black? Its hard to match fade. What kind of condition is the other leather in? the front seats do look a little more grey to me but hard to tell:(

other pics of zacks car have the red center caps. im going to guess the flash made them "pop" like that.

oh yeah here is a pic i took of the vic rotor, stock 16" rim and the stock caliper(without pads) so you can get an idea of the room. wouldnt work without a wheel spacer i dont think http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/5lug%20brake%20upgrade/widebodybrakeUG.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/5lug%20brake%20upgrade/widebodybrakeUG4.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/5lug%20brake%20upgrade/widebodybrakeUG2.jpg a single piston floating caliper is probably going to be the best bet for stock rims and a 12.5" rotor. edit(thats a stock front 7")

crown vic rotors are close to the offset and can be made to work with the right caliper bracket an d3kgt/300zx calipers. CaseyL mentioned that explorer sport trac rotors are a little closer to the same offset as the starion stuff but the stock caliper will not work because of the rotor thickness. I have a 5 lug hub set, 16" rim and crown vic rotors but i just havent had the time to mess with it lately on my car(been really busy with work/school). I have a buddy with the 300zx caliper i can snag for mock up but like i said time was just killing(especially since i dont need this for my car). If you go to the flatty forum and look at my big brake upgrade post there are several pages but one i talk about master cylinder etc. here is a drawing i made http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/MasterCylinder-Modelsidedim.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/MasterCylinder-Modelfrontdim.jpg THe stock master bore is only 15/16 but the stroke is much longer than some of the aftermarket ones i was finding. Wilwood offeres a 1" bore but with the stroke, ours actually can flow more fluid. When i put my calipers on i adjusted the brake rod all the way out so as soon as you touch the pedal it starts pushing fluid. I also took a lot of time to bleed my brakes(4 bleed screws per caliper!!!). I have no abs on my car, these 4piston calipers(1.75" pistons each) and stock rear calipers(2.25" diam) and the pedal is fine. Its not as stiff as i would like but certainly nothing to complain about. If you get creative and dont mind modding your brake pedal you can move the pivot point around(bell crank probably) and change the pedal ratio to get a stiffer pedal(more input force required). I took a lot of measurements, did a lot of searching and even tried to talk to wilwoods tech dept(no reply) on the matter. this first page has some pics of our master, booster etc http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/ also another member on here sent me a raybestos book that lists rotors and offsets so if you guys have a rotor you think may work i can look it up. I spent a lot of time thumbing through the book but the vic and sport trac rotor seem to be the best option(no redrilling).

i should also mention that the wide/flatty struts are different but the same. I think the wide body stuff is a little shorter(someone?). the spindle area is the same but the wide body use 5lug stuff with a rotor that goes over the hub. the 4 lug stuff bolts on as shown above. caliper is the same but the caliper bracket is different.

if you check out my big brake conversion thread i have tons of pics of the steering/rotor setup. the bolt pattern of the flatty vs widebody is the same for the strut tower. i think i have a cad file of the strut bolt pattern i can look at(at work) but a quick measure for you looks like 4.5625 between studs in a triangle. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/strutbolt.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/BrakeMockUp7.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/brakeconversion1.jpg if you want more specific pictures just let me know. I will be pretty strapped for time early this week but later in the week ill have time to take whatever you need.

i think you mean ECI not ECU right? where are you testing the fuel pressure again?

a lot of very nice cars, and a few sets of rims id like to have. I had no idea that late 70s red celica came in convertible! awesome

that black box on the fender well is the map sensor, the solenoid next to it switches from manifold pressure to a line that goes over to the air can for baro compensation. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/EngineBayICvac.jpg

oh and i think i put everything in that post but if you guys need some specific info or pics just let me know and i can snap em.

it might be because of the lack of stuff in my engine bay. without the heat shield next to it, may look small? not sure. if i can every get around to it and build a good motor here is the next step http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/Holset%20hx40/Holsethx4012a17.jpg the non IC housing and IC housing also look very different. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/EngineBayIC1.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/hx40.jpg

phil, it sounds like your car is coming together. thats good! the bronco is rough, very rough, but i like a challenge. i laid some hate to it last night until i ran out of daylight. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Bronco/PA260006.jpg slowquest, that looks like quite the setup there.

finish my lcd gauge for my gpz750, complete the rust repair on the floor pan of my bronco. Get my cousins f100 done(disc brake conversion, suspension drop and some finishing touches), and if there is time for the starion ill squeeze in a new motor build somewhere. here is what im up against on the bronco:( http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Bronco/PA250034.jpg

pretty cool, tight packed engine bay, what turbo is he running on there. pretty cool story about the group b motor:) wonder what other trick goodies were in that container:)

was there just a stack of pallets under there? Heck its an sti they should have just jumped it out right!