shift1313

correct me if im wrong but didnt matt pennick IC that car when he had it? anyways, the non IC spools up a lot faster and makes a good street car. The Flattys were a tad faster(even if they were down on HP). Ive been thinking about selling my IC setup since I need to build a motor and I never really wanted to put it on there in the first place(impulse buy). I have a post with lots of pics if your interested and i also did not have to enlarge any holes BUT i did have to cut off my coolant overflow tank bottom mount. Im going to go bump my thread. ps, pennick took very good care of that car but its not a 1 owner, or at least by the time you get it id say a 3-4 owner.

also it takes no time at all to pull the VC off. just undo your OVC pipe and the two bolts holding the VC down(you will have to loosen the throttle cable bracket and loosen/remove the coolant hard line bracket and either remove or undo your plug wires). there is a dimple on the Dist gear and a mark on the cam gear to help as well. When you set an engine up without a timing light you typically do this with timing components during assembly. the dist mark, the casting line and cam gear. This way you can also visually look at the cam and make sure your valves are closed. low power could be loose valves or jet valves stuck open. it doesnt take much for them to get stuck when the car has been sitting. You know at least one cylinder/valve was open/exposed. also, has the car run okay before or is this the first time out. when you were checking over everything did you check the mechanical advance on the dizzy and the vac advance/retard. If your timing is advancing and not retarding under boost you will certainly have some issues

there was a dealer installed upgrade to a 14b but that was only 88-89 cars i think. 12a:) If its actually an 85.5 esi i guess its possible the compressor wheel was different. Whats the casting on the compressor housing say?

welcome aboard. First off your car is an es, not an esi:) esi was the only intercooled flatty and it was 85.5. es is better though:) you should have a velnas computer inside the center console just below the radio. very rare so take care of it. As for your issue. Do you have spark on all the plugs, cap/rotor? Im surprised no body said tps/isc reset:) Turn the key on but dont start the car then look at the little plunger thing that pushes on the throttle linkage. this should push up on the linkage to bump the idle up during cold starts. If you have a leaky injector or two, its possible that you are dripping fuel into the intake, when you crank the car it fires up and dies from that fuel but the ecu never gives the car enough to keep it going cold. At the very least you should check your tps voltage to make sure its .45v. if for some reason its way off the ecu may think your throttle is wide open or if the value isnt in range who knows. you may have already found this but there is an access panel for the fuel pump below the subfloor in the hatch area. this will allow you to get to the in tank screen and cone filter thats inline after the pump. These would have to be extremely clogged for the car not to start but its possible. When you are cranking your car, does the tach jump around or not move at all? We need to narrow a few things down. Make sure you are getting spark, make sure the engine has decent compression. If its too low your fighting a loosing battle for the moment.

dont know, he never came back and i havent heard from him.

there are 5 total filters. If you only took care of the frame mounted one there are two more before that, a screen in the top mixer body and i think one on the return side.

i second that.

there is a metal tube that runs around the back of your motor with coolant. your intake and TB are "water cooled" so you have several suspects in that area. I think the glowing turbo is/may be un-related. That could be an indication that your precat is clogged. how were you driving? what was your boost? what is your coolant level/condition. does your car still have jet valves? are you low on coolant? fill your radiator up and with the cap off and the radiator full, car idling, see if you have bubbles in your radiator. This may be an indication of either bad head gasket or cracked head. does your car smoke at all, white or blue?

wow! im glad you finally got it worked out man!!!! on my way out of town a few days ago when getting off at the cloverdale exit i was thinking, i wonder if he got his car running:)

dont you have a nice black mitsu bra with red starion letters embroidered on it?

body looks pretty good. 85.5 was a one of a kind air dam. it was the flatty air dam(one piece) with a larger opening for the IC and two sideslits. I dont know that yours would have been black though. That engine bay is insane with corrosion and rust for the rest of the car being in top notch shape. They must have poured salt water under the hood. Make sure you pull the mud flaps off and check behind them, they hold moisture, dirt, and pine needles. also check inside your wheel wells for rust. I dont know that any 85.5 is more rare than the next as far as colors go. i dont know that i have ever seen one with a sun roof though. what are your plans? you going to put it all back to factory after cleaning up that engine bay?

i like them without the spoiler better too, thought id mention that:)

if you take a look at a lot of newer suspension members. the cast parts(if any) are really beefy and usually only encompass areas which require machining for critical tolerances, like bearings. These areas which see torque reaction forces radially, Then you will have sections of extruded(or forged) shapes welded to this. This saves money during production because forging or casting complex parts creates high mold costs. here is a good example. the gt-r. the cradle is steel. http://www.motiontrends.com/2007/m10/Nissan/Nissan_GT-R_suspension_rear.jpg this piece here is a forged aluminum cross member http://www.aluminum.or.jp/jidosya/japanese/OLD/eng/image/Efufog.jpg I think most suspension members(if all aluminum) are going to be forged and not cast. Cast Al: Applications- Mass production street only applications. Advantages selection- Easy to manufacture, low cost, quick turn around, good detail and overall tolerance. Disadvantages- Post process needed for critical areas, fatigue problems, possible interstitial discrepancies not visible, but dangerous Bad failure modes. Stamped Steel: Applications- Stock vehicles, high production parts Advantages- Easy production and quick turn around time. Minimal post processing Welding or multiple stamped sections produces high strength, somewhat lightweight parts. high repeatability in parts Good Failure Mode Disadvantages- Limitation in size and shape. parts must be stamped with certain geometry for strength Welded Steel Tube Applications: Race, custom vehicles Advantages: High strength/weight Choice of materials well suited for custom applications Easily altered/adjustable Good adaptability Good failure mode. Disadvantages: Not easily mass produced Time consuming production

flattys rule, especially the velnas. non ic cars spool up faster:) I really like the way the 15s fill out the fenders also. my car likes to be sideways. honestly i think the proportions of a stock flatty vs stock widebody, the flatty looks more agressive. Now if you put larger rims and lower a wide thats a different story. and fanta, one day ill mpi my car, once i build another motor. and oh yeah, manual seat belts are nice too. this is such a pretty site. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/PrimeHood6.jpg

you could, only it would be setup as a turbine and you would be driven by thrust:)

pretty cool. they all sound like tractors on videos. at least all the cool ones

i just took my car out today and the brakes felt pretty good. pads are still breaking in so i cant do any hard stops but i dont readily notice any softness in the pedal or excessive travel, for what its worth. i think in the flatty forum or the 300zx 3kgt brake upgrade in this forum i posted the bolt pattern of the stock booster. if it helps.

its all yours monty, pm me your addy and ill get it off to you sometime this week.

you mean like the factory setup?

oh and i dont think the software can simulate the pulse waves created by the valves flowing through the intake, but that would be very nice!

yeah i understand that chad and this limited version of the flow software really isnt made for this at all. its designed for things like water valves etc(hence having to trick it). That is the reason i was viewing the effects of diverters in stream. I was just trying to see how the flow would react to certain objects:) and how this would help/hinder certain runners in a static environment. These screen shots were done with 30psi inlet pressure. If i could get a hold of the flow works i believe it can be combined with the cosmos motion study where you can simulate the valves, valve springs, cam etc. ive already done a simulation of a single valve/cam and used it to show loading on the lobe for different K values of the springs. It will even simulate float if your rpms are too high or your springrate is too low. Its really powerful stuff

We got solidworks recently at work and i have been playing around with the flow analysis software. The version we have is cosmos flow express. its basically a stripped down version of cosmos flow works. It will only do internal flow and it will only let you pick 1 inlet and 1 outlet but i have been playing around with it and tricking it a bit by making a large plenum on the outlet side. i made these models fast just to get a feel for how different diverters will work out. a friend is making a manifold for his turbo q45 motor and we have been talking about the best way to make sure the flow works out(very limited clearance). http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/image004.png http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/image003.png http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/image0022.png http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/image002.png http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/image0011.png http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/image001.png anyone have any crazy ideas theyve wondered about??

im my process of gutting a bronco for parts i pulled the intake piece which sits just above the radiator on the FI 5.0 trucks. Im not going to use it for anything but i thought it would make a good part for someone to make a cold air intake with. It goes from a rectangle, i think it was 1 3/8" tall and like 7 1/2" wide to a round 3 1/2". I didnt want to post it in the for sale or VM section because really its just BS. If someone wants it let me know. Im sure you can grab them from any junkyard. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/PB150004.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/PB150003.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/PB150001.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/PB150002.jpg

did you ever get those numbers? i havent heard back from you.

dave-o, 3kgts came with two different masters. non abs cars had a 1"bore, abs cars had a 1 1/16bore. Your best bet is to grab a booster/master setup because chances are very slim for you to get another master to fit. I searched for awhile and couldnt find another that matched the same pattern. some older cars came close but they were mounted at a 45degree angle and smaller bore. You could also go to a hydro-booster setup instead of vac. here are brake booster pics http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/booster7.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/booster6.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/booster5.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/booster3.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/booster.jpg if you can find a booster combo that you can remake the firewall spacer for you may have a simple swap. I tried to buy a few 3kgt units but the sellers wouldnt measure the booster for me! lazy fools. 300zx,3kgt,rx7(2nd and 3rd gen) are the ones id be looking for. Dont forget if you go checking cars in the junkyard to measure the pedal ratio as well.