autoxer

Ok so it seems all my problems are coming from not having a true ported vacuum for the distributor. I have spent hours reading through tons of posts on this subject but have not found any that really say how, where, or if they got it to work properly. It seems the only way to do MPI correct is to have ECU controlled timing. Any input would be great. My setup: Magna Intake, msd 75lb injectors, FIP fuel only, MSD 6a, 19c turbo, 272 cam, Stock dizzy The problem: My spark knock only goes away with racing fuel or if I hook distributor vacuum lead to straight manifold vacuum but, if I do this my timing is at 34 degrees advanced and it has no power. Currently have it hooked to OVCP right in front of Throttle Body but then I get spark knock as soon as I hit 10psi boost. Got to be timing related I have eliminated everything else. So whats everybody doing with a stock dizzy and MPI or am I the only DA trying to make it work? Considering a 5 gallon can of gas and a match at this point :hangman: Thanks to everyone I have bugged about this and for all the help......thus far. James

I'll sell you mine :thumbsup: I am just across the border in NC..

REF: idle issue I found that if I just slightly bend the arm that hits the idle screw I was able to adjust the idle. Dont know if your still having this problem but if you are this should fix it.

UPDATE!!!! OK so I resealed intake no change so then I bumped cam timing back on notch just to make sure I hadn't goofed when putting the motor back together and that just made things worse so I am back to square one. Altough I have notice that from a dead stand still if I only mash accell pedal 1/2 to 3/4 down I get no spark knock and it seems to have more power. Wondering if I have to good of intake flow for my stock head and stock exhaust manifold and its backing up for lack of a better description. Anyway gonna find somebody to fix it soon or I going to sell it , I am getting fed up with spending all this money with no real rewards. Will take any and all ideas to fix this issue. Thanks James PS: If you interested in it make me an offer by PM

Ok so not fixed still having problems. When I say spark knock it sounds just like when you run low octane gas in a motor that is supposed to have high octane. Prime example is my wifes mazda miata in which she refuses to put in high test gas and car has gruggling spark knock sound under accel. I have the same thing once I go over 10psi and 4500 rpms. Boost is set at about 13psi. Nowkeep in mind car runs great Tons of get it up and go and does not let off when it starts to spark knock. I currently havespark plug gap at .032, base timing set to 5 degrees BTDC and have up'ed the fuel map at that cell to 130 from 115 in 5 increments trying to make it go away. At this point I feel it is either in cam timing or an air leak around intake adaptor plate. Going to reseal intake this weekend and then if that doesn't help going to bump cam timing back one tooth. Running out of ideas. Thanks for all the input so far... also SUBSTOCK: I like your idea but have no idea on wether it will work or not. At this time I have hooked up a tap in the intercooler tubing about 2.5 inches in front of the throttle body and everything seems to work as it should. I dont feel that the lack of a true ported vacuum is the cause of my problem. Because the car is running to good. If advance was not retarding I feel that the car would fall flat on its face and at the moment it pulls strong all the way to redline.

I got a DIY kit FROM MAX REDLINE <---click me .Very nice came with: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.25" Universal Aluminum Piping Kit with Two 90 Degree Elbow Hoses. This kit includes: - 2.25" Straight Pipe x2 - 2.25" 45 Degree Bend pipe x2 - 2.25" 75 Degree Bend pipe x2 - 2.25" 90 Degree Bend pipe x2 - 2.25" Straight Silicon Hose Coupler x6 - 2.25" 90 Degree Elbow Silicon Hose x2 - Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamp x16 These are High Quality Aluminum Pipe - Mandrel Bent - Polished - Each pipe is 18" in length - Each pipe is bead, or rolled of each end - 2mm thick wall, better than other pipes all for $119.00 plus freight

Thanks for all your help guys I got what I needed and all is good. Ended up using one 90 degree pipe off tb then hooked it to a 45 degree pipe with a 90 degree connector and it lined up perfect the intercooler outlet. will post some pics soon.... later James

Ok then........ Didint mean to start WWWIII :fighting0061: just thought it was cool that I found the info on how we could save a few bucks and make something ourselves. Not to mention that most of the grestest MODS on our cars are designed, created and profected by some of the nicest and best backyard mechanics I have ever had the pleaure of talking to. I mean there are very few things that we do that are or can be considered factory even the magna intake started as a hack job at best. And I myself have been running a shift kit that I bought from Lowes home improvment for a total cost of about $3.00 for going on three years and haven't had anything blow up or go up in flames. Anyhow use the info provided or dont the greatest thing about our club forums is that there is alot of good info that has been tested and does work wether or not you choose to use it is up to the individual. I am just happy we have a place to go to when we have question that nobody else knows the answers to. PS:I have homemade a resistor box up and running great with no issues thus far.........

Ok so I am up and running magna mpi using FIP TBPRO2 ECU. Background info: 19c, automatic, magna mpi, MSD box, stock dist., forged pistons, and balanced rotating assy. So anyway runs good, has good take off and seems to run basicly great until I get above 10psi then it starts spark knocking. Wide band shows any where between 9.7 to 11.5 closer to 10-11 above 10psi. So I am at a loss. Open to any ideas.. :confused0024: UPDATE ok so I think vacuum advance is where my problem is and looks like some say tap in before TB others say after.. my thoughts: if before TB then they say your tiiming wont retard( which is where I am now) but if you go after then you loose the vacuum advance and gain the timing retard Am I understanding this correctly? And does no one here use factory dist. w/magna and have both advance and retard? Problem still here see my post futher down Thanks guys, later James

Ok so you dont wanna try this thats cool you can buy a universal injector resistor box from these guys for $50 buck. DCR RACING <---link

ok so I found this write on DSM forum that supports what I am making only its alot simpler and it goes as follows( i only included parts of the write up that apply to what I think our needs are: this is a post by Bizzar 05-09-2004, 08:06 PM at www.d-series.org This is my first write-up so bear with me. Tons of pics 56k beware. This should explain how simple it is and CHEAP if you do it yourself. No resistor box needed but you can buy one for $15-30. This method costs about 4 bucks from Radio Shack if you have the tools I searched all over the place and could not find a nice write-up on this install so I decided to do one myself. Enjoy! Tools Needed: 4 Injectors. Can be purchased for apx $40-75 I paid $56 shipped for a set of 450cc 1gen DSM injectors usualy from turbo Eclipse or Talons. There are two types that you will most likely run into. Blue tops and Black tops. The black tops are from 2ng gen and are newer but will work fine. 4 10ohm 10 watt inline resistors available at Radio Shack $1.70 per pair Heat Shrink tubing $2 Optional : project box for a cleaner install available at Radio Shack for apx $5 Soldering Iron, rosin core solder and optional flux. Be sure to use acid-free or corrosion free solder. Multi-meter Apx install time took me less than 1 hour even with taking all the pictures. On with the install!!!! Cut the wire and tin it. Tinning is adding solder to the wires to help make a better connection to the resistor we will be installing. I like to dip the ends in flux so the solder sticks to the wires better but you should not have a problem. http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8660/diy0124yg.jpg http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/308/diy0134hg.jpg A tinned wire with solder http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/9559/diy0186qi.jpg For a water tight seal and a longer lasting setup I recommend using heat shrink tubing. Place a piece of heat shrink over both ends of the cut wire BEFORE making any final solders to the resistor. http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/6843/diy0112yv.jpg Solder each end of the cut wire to the resistor. It is non-directional so it does not matter which way the resistor goes in. http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/6518/diy0199mk.jpg Seal up each connection with heatshrink. You did remember to put the heatshrink on before you soldered the wires right? http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/7035/diy0204ui.jpg Now repeat each step for each injector wire. Take some zip ties or wire ties to make things a little neater. Tape the wires together and re-install the wire loom. If you want a really nice clean setup pick up a project box from Radio Shack and place the resistors inside and secure it somewhere to the body or the back of the strut tower. http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/9365/diy0211hw.jpg The finished product of your hard work!! Turn on the ignition and make sure look for any fuel leaks before starting your car. end of write up radioshack part info: 10 Ohm 10W 5% Wirewound Resistor (2-Pack) Model: 271-132 | Catalog #: 271-132 Now if your using a TBPRO system you just run one switch 12v wire to the one end of all the resistors and then run a single lead from one resistor to one injector and then one of the white TBPRO injector wires goes to injectors 1-4 and the other goes to 2-3. the TBPRO red injector wire just gets capped off. Atleast that is my understanding from what turboaddict told me. If I am mistaken about any of this please feel free to correct me. Hope this helps Later James HERES A QUICK DIAGRAM I MADE THAT MIGHT HELP: http://a258.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/11/l_be4a12264f157dcc8ec5d8d9b78e0a49.jpg

Looking for pictures of people that left stock cooler unhacked and just ran a pipe along the radiator to the mpi intake. Thanks James

Might also ck vacuum advance on the distributor I had a similar problem and it turned out bad vacuum advance.

Have you talked to Ed at FIP yet, they are really good about helping over the phone, if you get voice mail leave a meesage and they will call you back. They helped me set up when I got my tbpro system. Great guys web page www.fuelinjectionpro.com or call them at 727-243-1396 hope this helps, later James

If you need a clutch pedal/ master cylinder assy. I have one you can get cheap.

Ok so I am also tring to go this route and I think I have found a solution to the t-stat housing. Looks like to me that a t-stat housing off a 1.6 miata could be welded to the intake flange. And they are only about 30 bucks used. http://www.miata.net/garage/CoolingSystemProblems_files/image004.jpg. I have got one coming and I will keep you posted.

WOW!!! That hurts, wonder how I will make it through the next 38yrs of my life without the approval of you and all the rest of the members here. Oh yeah thats right because I dont give fat babies butt.. Kudos on your reply though i can see you put a lot of thought into it. Please excuse me for being so shallow, was just really looking forward to having a magna and had been searching for a couple months. Anyway sorry if I rocked the boat it wasnt my intent just venting and I should have done so in a private message.......

I was wrong you are an a** clown , got to thinking about it and so what you could not reach me by phone on friday, I have waited days for a response from buyers. The whole point is first come first serve. Not mention I was willing to drive down and hand you cash. People like you make it harder for the rest of us to sale items because you under mind mutual trust among members. Anyway while you wait for andys money by mail just think about that you could have had mine today because I was planning a road trip.. Later

Ok so here I go again with maybe another stupid idea, but hey atleast I'm trying right? So here's what I got: Found a company that does major head work on our heads not just some local shop thats trying to do the best they can but a place that really goes balls out . Short version they remove valve guides and weld in extra metal to relieve the hook on the intake side, port and polish, CNC etc. I am supposed to get some before and after flow numbers soon but wanted to get some idea if there was an interest on group pricing. I believe if we commit to atleast 20 heads they will do them for around 600-700 dollars maybe even less. And they said that would include setting the valve train back up ie valve guides, seals, valve job, spring pressure, etc.

Regretfully you are the only person that did not recieve a kit and I have already sent your refund plus processing fees. Sorry man. But if I find another supplier I let you know.

SALE IS OVER.....SUPPLIER CALL ME AND SAID THE PRICED THEM WRONG NOW THEY WANT 250 BUCKS..SORRY GUYS

True , very true. But I try to take people at what they say and hope for the best. Lets hope they really did make them again just for us and not just throw something close to it in the box...

OK guys I have two left from this shippment and will sending out orders tomorrow. So if anybody else wants one to go out this week paypal before tomorrow morning. Thanks James Next shippment due next wed.. 3/28/07

Thanks for the great info Tom.=D> Thats what I love about this place is everone shares alittle of what they know and before you know it something complex is just as simple as pie. Anyhow thanks again Tom for the great info I am sure this will help alot of us that dont have a clue like me for for one..