Silver_Bullet

What width are most tb spacers? Is there a nominal width that yields good results? I looked at one for my 99 Z-71 and it was a nice piece of metal - about 1.25"-1.5" thick but the Full Size boards were putting them down as a waste of money. How much space do we have between the top of the tb and the hood? Would these also be beneficial for the Magna MPFI's?

Hmmm, very interesting. I like the sound of carbon fiber!

I used a JC Whitney 3" flexpipe, CATCO high flow cat (opted not to install yet), SuperTrapp, and Bosch 3 wire heated O2 sensor, works great with my Jumptronix digital A/F meter. This is the most awesome 3" exhaust and sounds great, too, LOUD.

Missing letter in the Summit URL www.summitracing.com Link for the actual racing Dynomax muffler, part # WLK-17223: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...archType%3DBoth

How much should I drill out my PCV? Any suggestions on a comparable fitting I might find at Lowe's or Home Depot? Thread pattern? Thanks, D.

I replaced a full 2.5" crush bent on my 87 Starion with Kelly's 3". The 3" is far better than any 2.5" you can put on one of our cars; it simply flows so much better.

You're starting to convince me.

Interesting test. The guy ended up going with the Warlock. :-/

I some how doubt the Summit can outflow a SuperTrapp uncapped. There is absolutely nothing restricting it except for the 3" core. I admit it's a bit loud, but it is very deep and considering I paid $180 for it shipped from Summit, I am going to get my money's worth out of before I go with something different which may or may not outflow my current setup. I would hate to lose the power and responsiveness I am getting from the SuperTrapp (boost on demand).

I have confirmed that the PCV has not been drilled/hollowed out. The engine has about 2300 miles on it since the rebuild. My oil pressure iis just a tad over the 1/2 mark under power and at maybe 1/8 during idle. Too low? Will modifying the PCV help raise my oil pressure, if it is too low for an engine with TS rings and KV kit? Should I mess with the PCV now or leave it be? Thanks, D.

Low's 15's are easy in a Starion. Â STAY AWAY from anything TEP advertises as an engine. Â Find a reputable local machine shop and go from there. Â You could also ship it to a shop in Richmond, VA that does excellent work on the 2.6L - Ballos Machine, 804-264-5992. Â They have been building race engines for years, including the infamous 2.6L. Â They charged about $2200 for it. I have one in my 87 Starion! Â ;D

My engine builder put a 284 grind in my Starion, but the receipt doesn't say who made it. I am going to call the shop in Richmond, VA and find out more about what actually went into my engine. He says it can easily handle 8600 rpm's, but we all know it can't live there long without fuel. Although I am not ready to consider a different cam, I am learning a lot reading Tim's posts, great stuff.

Update #1: Well, I will be the first to say DON'T buy a SuperTrapp and run it with the diffuser plates. I am SO disappointed with the diffuser plates installed, the car was so quiet and had no power compared to running it wide open. I honestly believe I would have to run over 30 of those plates to get any sound out it and still not get the power I had with it uncorked. I had trouble pulling away from a Ford Focus with an exhaust mod (maybe intake). My plan is to replace it with a Ravine muffler similar to what I had put on my Z-71. NOW that is a SWEET muffler, oh, the sound is so cool and ya know, there is nothing quite like a V-8 at full song, eh? And can I say that my Z-71 is running faster now? Oh, yeah, it smoked the right rear tire for about 25 feet and I am running 305's on it!!! D.

All I have to say about my full 3" exhuast is WWWOOOOOOWWW!!!!! Â Thanks, KELLY (just in case your still surfing the site)! Â I had the JC Whitney flex piping installed and my Bosch 3 wire O2 along with my SuperTrapp on it, it is EXTREMELY LOUD!!! Â hee hee. Â My ears were hurting, it is that loud, but then again, I didn't have a hex tool with me so I could install the plates and shield, so it will be a little quieter. Â The guy said he didn't want to try to install my CATCO cat because with the way the exhaust sits on my Starion, he thought it would rub and bang my underbody, so we opted not to install, yet (no doubt it would make it quieter). Â But man, at 16-18 psi, my 14g spools up instantly at highway speeds and is not as sluggish as it was with the crush bent 2.5" that was on the car originally at lower speeds and rpm's. Â I am excited to find out what it performs like with a 20g! Â We're having fun now! Â Oh, I also had a Ravine muffler (Midas version) installed on my 99 FSC GMC Z-71, 5.3L V-8 and I am on my way to pick it up. Â The guy who replaced my Gibson muffler with the Ravine says it is LOUD. Â I got a real truck now. Â I'll edit later about the sound and performance, but he said it is DEEP. Â Gotta love V-8's! D.

I did a search for alternators using the part # database, but came up with nothing referencing other models available for the Starion. Next I will try to search the posts to see what I can find.

Why would you need to eliminate the OEM PCV? Too restrictive and creates excessive pressure?

You might also post this in the stereo and electrical mods forum: I posted this yesterday after installing the H4's. I just installed the AIC Halogen H4 Diamond headlight assy. along with the H4 bulbs. Part # 40.3654.HL It was easy and straightforward - and they look great. The hardest part with the assembly was removing the retaining spring screw/washer combo and then reinstalling it along with the rubber boot over the connector base of the H4 bulb. The bulb connectors hook right up to the stock connector plug assembly. Both low and high beams work along with my fog light mod (they still go out when I hit the high beams). I did notice right away tonight that my stock fog light bulbs are much easier to see illuminating the road with the H4 bulbs and I am unsure whether the H4's are really better than the stockers. The hardest part was removing the rusted stock bezel screws - some PB Blaster took care of that, thankfully. I also bought the H3 Extreme White bulbs for the fog lights. Part # 15255 But earlier today I found out I shouldn't run them without also hooking up a Bosch relay. The guy that convinced me to buy them owns a Conquest, but failed to mention that little tidbit! > So doing a little research saved my Starion some possible damage.

Don't buy coil overs, they are cool at first, but given time and mileage, they will start t make noises, especially during cold weather. Just my advice based on my experience with GC coilovers.

Good advice, maybe I better remove my Thermotec header wrap from my TEP 2.5" dp! I have yet to bolt it on, but your suggestion is a good one.

I have a 284 cam in my rebuilt engine, but I don't know who made it. The shop built it to the spec's given by the previous owner and didn't specify the make of the cam on the build sheet or receipt. I know this isn't related to this thread, but why not: I have been trying to diagnose my idle "problem", but I am beginning to think the cam is what is causing it to lope between 900 and 1000 rpm's (last night my idle was all over the place, but I discovered the 1g lid I was using had a broken clamp and was letting in unmetered air past the K&N filter at idle!). All of the sensors are brand new and the TPS and ISC check out fine. All new vacuum hoses, too. Mike, which cam are you running in your current MPFI setup?

I say two weeks to four weeks, but I was wondering if there would be a way to notify members to renew their ads and/or update them. Or give them the option to run it until it sells, kinda like Autotrader.com does.

Jack, any suggestions on an alternator I can pick up at a local auto parts store that is a direct bolt on?

I just installed the AIC Halogen H4 Diamond headlight assy. along with the H4 bulbs. Â Part # 40.3654.HL It was easy and straightforward - and they look great. The hardest part with the assembly was removing the retaining spring screw/washer combo and then reinstalling it along with the rubber boot over the connector base of the H4 bulb. Â The bulb connectors hook right up to the stock connector plug assembly. Both low and high beams work along with my fog light mod (they still go out when I hit the high beams). Â I did notice right away tonight that my stock fog light bulbs are much easier to see illuminating the road with the H4 bulbs and I am unsure whether the H4's are really better than the stockers. Â The hardest part was removing the rusted stock bezel screws - some PB Blaster took care of that, thankfully. Â I also bought the H3 Extreme White bulbs for the fog lights. Â Part # 15255 But earlier today I found out I shouldn't run them without also hooking up a Bosch relay. Â The guy that convinced me to buy them owns a Conquest, but failed to mention that little tidbit! Â So doing a little research saved my Starion some possible damage. Should I now consider upgrading my stock alternator??? Thanks

I just installed the AIC Halogen H4 Diamond headlight assy. along with the H4 bulbs. Part # 40.3654.HL It was easy and straightforward - and they look great. The hardest part with the assembly was removing the retaining spring screw/washer combo and then reinstalling it along with the rubber boot over the connector base of the H4 bulb. The bulb connectors hook right up to the stock connector plug assembly. Both low and high beams work along with my fog light mod (they still go out when I hit the high beams). I did notice right away tonight that my stock fog light bulbs are much easier to see illuminating the road with the H4 bulbs and I am unsure whether the H4's are really better than the stockers. The hardest part was removing the rusted stock bezel screws - some PB Blaster took care of that, thankfully. I also bought the H3 Extreme White bulbs for the fog lights. Part # 15255 But earlier today I found out I shouldn't run them without also hooking up a Bosch relay. The guy that convinced me to buy them owns a Conquest, but failed to mention that little tidbit! > So doing a little research saved my Starion some possible damage.