860QuestTuner

I beleive they are not the ST springs,I think they are just some stiffer springs that fit that they get from a supplier like comp. engineering. Not specific for the quest just the correct size and different rates.

Sounds good,big improvement over worn out stock and fun to drive.

Looks good,but when uping size on the pipes thats more area to compress with air before it gets to the motor causeing some lag, but I'm sure at higher levels of boost it works well.That's why the *DM pipes are 2.25. I like it,looks clean even though you had to use more couplers ,but no more ballooning of rubber hoses.

If you are driving it like that you should yank the PS belt.

oh and yes that is the only box there,there are other things around that area though but probaly won't effect anything.

The box controls the seat belts from what I remebered,I'll check tonight.The box sits in between the bottom of the shlef and the hump. It's screwed down,you can un screw it and move it back,theres some slack you can get out of the wires. The box is for the automatic seat belts.

Those multi electrodes pllugs are weak,my buddies turbo honda got them hot and broke some electrodes into the motor. Have another buddie who did the samw thing running nitrous on his VW. They both had the bosch +4,also heard the spitfires bite too.

Again, shimming does not work with the rollers,they WILL NOT LINE UP with the valve as said in my previous post. I bought my head from alabama cylinder heads and thats how I found out the caravan rocker thing and TEP will sell you anything even if it's wrong.Anyway I understand what you are saying and took all precautions to make everything work. I was just expressing an alternative to the problem.

Yes,there is a difference in the towers. Shimming is a No No,tried it and the rockers don't line up correctly. I miced the main cap on both towers and there was no difference and test on the head,my head was a new NJ casting and was in spec with stock quest parts, if you get a head from alabama cylinder heads they don't come with the towers, I also believe Top End's or (slop end) bare head doesn't include them either.

The Driverside knee gaurd and fuse panel cover,center console,the shelf under the radio is different do to the seatbelt controller box under it.The plastic around the colum is different and the tilt rod and handle.The foot gaurd panel under the dash on the pass side,the speaker grills, the guage panel idiot lights are different. The raer seats and the glove box have suddle differences. I have an 89 and 86 guests tsi sitting next to each other in my garage.

I had the same problem with the aftermarket cylinder head, Turns out the bearing caps are for the caravan, swaping it some stock quest ones will work fine and still line up. I know I was boggled at first and was comparing a stock head ,parts and aftermart head and I swaped out the caps for some good ones from my 89 parts head and it worked, It also seems the caravan rocker shafts have 4 extra oiling holes than stock quest ones,so I used thise in conjuction.I have a few pics that I took with a cheap camera, but someday when I figure out how to post pics I will.If you put the 2 different style caps next to each other you can see the slight difference.

Sorry about the venting, but you get what I saying.

Again, isn't this a CONQUEST MODS FORUM!,if you want DSMs go to my boys at the CCDSM site. This is why this site sucks now ,Why wouldn't be BSing about our cars here ,this is what this site is for!.Ignorant people our on here posting about hondas are fast or how much better the eclipse is, We Don't Care.

I think it's the same as a honda,10mmx1.

I thought this was about dyno numbers with the 2.6, Who cares what a honda head flows,this is a starion conquest site,We go to a honda site for that . Damn every time I'm in my quest some kid in a honda wants to race me,so when I hand them there a** they always park and talk smack, something like "My head flows better".HeHe I believe that dyno chart left was incorrect, I will be getting together with Bigmanndsm soon and will let you know what the deal is. As far as I know he has got a good reputation with mistus and was one of the original starting members of CCDSM along with his friends at Victor Research in East Hartford CT. I also believe he is good friends with Dave Bushier and have worked together. Not trying to start nothing just stating some facts and if there is some magic bud involed I want some.

They sell those quick release steering hubs, they extend the wheel like 2 inches and let you remove it.

They also have seals that need replacing when worn.There are shops the specialize in rebilding and modifing shocks/struts, you could probaly get parts and do your own custom job. Buying some strut inserts is probaly cheaper in the long run.

I don't believe there is anything CHEAP,but you can get the seals to rebuild the calipers for like 3 bucks a caliper.thats cheap and not to hard to do. Just need to make sure the bore is clean and smooth.

It's the ther way around .the part # for the front are the same because they are just inserts,The rear have 2 part# due to they are a whole replacement and the way they mount and the break line mounts.

It goes around the strut and you slide the collor over it so the collor is snug and cant move around.

Nice,I was also planing running that size.Go to Tirerack.com for tire specs/sizes. I have had 225 45 and 245 50 on rear and the bigger ones were sweet looking for the back.

Sorry abut the double post ,my computer F**KED UP.

Always had faith in you man, That's how we do in CT.

Always had faith in you man, That's how we do in CT.

Certain subs also require a certain amount of air space depending on type,if you already didn't know.