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Everything posted by Komeuppance
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Looking for recommendations on an oxy acetylene torch
Komeuppance replied to tsi_tom's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
What?! No safety disclaimers posted when talking about torches?! Someone's gonna set the roof on fire!! We don't need no water... /sarcasm -Robert -
timming cover removal and installation question
Komeuppance replied to 88-cnqst-tsi's topic in Virtual Mechanic
Its right, it holds the back plate on. -Robert -
Dad (Randy) received his AJUSAS!!!!!!
Komeuppance replied to natallica's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
I was just wondering how fast they would sell out. Last time they sold quick I believe. -Robert -
JoeDogs was in a magazine, many years back. I have it somewhere lol. I'm sure if you search it'll turn up. -Robert
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bad experiences at the dealership
Komeuppance replied to 88-cnqst-tsi's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
Sounds like y'all need to make a claim against them asap. And then find a better place to get service. You Canadia people like to say you're friendlier than 'muricans... Maybe dealerships are excluded in that myth lol. -Robert -
Must... have... -Robert
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Rarest car you've seen on the road lately?
Komeuppance replied to MikeMeyerhoff's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
Nice, sounds like the owner likes to drive it. Can you give some insight of the connection with the earthquake?? -Robert -
Dad (Randy) received his AJUSAS!!!!!!
Komeuppance replied to natallica's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
How many this time?? Lol... -Robert -
F: 17x10 - R: 17x12 advice from the pros
Komeuppance replied to attack vector's topic in Rims, Suspension and Brake Mods
My RCA's were made by MK1 years ago in a small run. There's a new run made by T3, Techno toy Tuning, which are thicker. Wheels can be machined for a larger hub bore, but truck wheels are usually larger bore already. Centering rings would be the way to go in that case. -Robert -
F: 17x10 - R: 17x12 advice from the pros
Komeuppance replied to attack vector's topic in Rims, Suspension and Brake Mods
Not a fan of that stretch and poke and the word "stance" lol... but I haven't seen it executed well on a Starion, so maybe yours can change my mind. With a 17x12, you can go as high offset as a -15 for clearance of the strut by my calculations offhand. But with tires/wheels that wide it's going to have goofy looking camber, no matter the offset. Looks cool sitting still, but just the opposite following it on the road. With the right choices in parts you can have the looks, performance, and driveability... don't give up before giving it a shot LOL. Some 17x11's in the rear at -5 or 0 offset would poke the wheel lip just barely past the fender edge when the camber plates are maxed out for as little camber as possible. A 275 tire would give that slightly stretched look, and just barely fit into a rolled fender lip. As far as your bump steer issues, have you got an alignment since you lowered the car?? If so, what did you have the camber set at?? If you still have issues after an alignment, you should look into an RCA (Roll center adjuster), to bring your control arms back to better geometry. I have a set that will fit 7" fronts (wanted the ability just in case I needed to throw a spare on), and they're not as thick as the latest production runs. I'm lower than D2's will allow, and I don't have bump steer issues, though my front camber isn't out of control. -Robert -
I bet if you show up and take the pics yourself, they'd be ok with it. Good news to hear about that poor car, I remember the tree incident from years ago and am glad to see you've stuck with it!! -Robert
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The truck trans does have the same 3 bolt style gasket. -Robert
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Stock gauge is fine to let you know there is oil pressure and it's rising accordingly. Remove the stock sender and inspect it for clogging, carefully use a small drill bit to clean it up. If someone "rebuilt" the engine before they may not have replaced the pick up tube o-ring, or they misaligned it when reinstalling... either would cause low oil pressure. Removing the pan requires some finesse when in the car but it is doable, do a search to find out the tips and tricks. If it's not leaking then I wouldn't mess with it. All you need is a little bit of clearance to help ensure the head gasket doesn't get crunched like the other poster was referring to. -Robert
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Rarest car you've seen on the road lately?
Komeuppance replied to MikeMeyerhoff's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
Briefly looked, or briefly sober?? Lol... -Robert -
Do not base oil pressure solely on the stock gauge, it could be clogged up, plus its not accurate anyway. Its function is to show oil pressure rising and falling, it does that just fine. Hook up a mechanical guage to test it. -Robert
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No you do not have to remove the head either, unbolt the front of the oil pan a little bit to get the clearance you need to put the timing cover back on. -Robert
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The 86 engine is 99% identical to the 87+ models. The difference is the injectors (both) and ISC, idle speed control/motor position sensor. So all you would need are those two items which can be easily bought here, search in the parts for sale section, and then post in the items wanted section. Pulling the harness is easy, Mitsubishi separated the engine harness from the body harness with a few plugs under the dash. It's so easy to remove, but you don't need to do it in this case. But if you are engine swapping, you should pull the harness and save the sensors and such to help save another car. -Robert
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If you haven't already, download the factory service manual and start studying it, getting yourself familiar with the car and engine: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=124229 The crank seal is in the timing cover, and you need to pull the timing cover off to change the timing components. It's a simple rubber seal that pops in, but needs to be done carefully so it doesn't bend. Autozone or similar rents the tool that you need, for free. Or it can be done with a block of wood to evenly press it in... just depends on your skill level. I wouldn't pull the engine, that's a lot more work than is needed. Plenty of access with the radiator removed. As far as other stuff to pile on and buy (lol), water pump, radiator hoses, oil pick up tube o-ring, balance shaft elimination... but these really depend on the condition of the engine. Why are you needing to redo the timing anyway?? P.S. It's not a dumb question, don't be afraid to ask... plenty of long time members who don't know how to wrench on here lol. Remember to be less afraid of using the search function before asking though. -Robert
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It's really easy if the radiator is pulled, no need to remove the entire engine. This would be a good time to replace your crank seal too. -Robert
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Looking good. That's some dark tint!! It's illegal up here in the land of less sunshine, haha. -Robert
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So, I'm getting pretty good at this computer stuff
Komeuppance replied to Technology's topic in Digital Quest
See if you can assign IP's by MAC Address. If that router has QOS capability, you likely can. -Robert -
To go through something like that is unimaginable. Very sad. I read a first responders account of the accident and how they tried to help, heartbreaking. -Robert
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LC-1's are known for having issues, but they readily fix them when it's sent back. Send it back, have em fix it, and sell it to recoup some moneys. -Robert
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Having some beers now with friends, getting ready to wrench all good. -Robert